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1G 1GB Quad HID Retrofit in Progress

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Slowly but surely learning CAD... F#!@%!$ I just wanna be done. I really hope my college will let me use thier CNC machines since I have sufficiently mastered CAD to serve my purpose

Here is my latest creation. It will fill the void between the front part of the new shroud. (the "milled" PVC coupler). It will help eliminate most of the Red Demon eye leaks that were happening before.

Anyone know how CNC works? just give a file to someone and get it popping? Is my thing CNC-able?

3d printing is pretty limited in my app. The materials only withstand about 150*f.... I have around 250* f as a max possible temp in the housing, near the bulb/projector.
 

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the mh1 projector and shroud barely fits in the headlamp housing. I mean BARELY. if the d2s is any larger (I think it is) it certainly will not fit easily (anything COULD be done with enough dremeling LOL) if the fit is too tight, you will lose valuable adjust-ability room.

If you browse the hidplanet.com forums, you will find a output comparison thread that is really scientific/objective/quantitative in its approach.

You will find that the MH1 is very competitive. It has been shown to be just as good as any other high end projector, and the last time I looked it seemed brighter and a better beam pattern than the d2s kit.

you should be more than happy with the MH1 kit, and it bolts right in with extremely minimal trimming.

Also 50 watts is a lot of heat for such a small housing. I would really reconsider. LEDs in the housing will be completely out of the question, if the housing will even accept the d2s size and heat output.

Im glad to see at least a few people know how to do things right.
 
Thanks for the reply, I guess I'll be going with the mini h1's. The beauty of this kit is how easy it is to setup, that would be defeated with a larger projector. I am going to do some more research on bulb/ballasts though. Ive seen an adjustable 30-50w ballast here: ADJUSTABLE OUTPUT 30W-50W DIGITAL HID KITS - Retro-Solutions Store
If that doesnt pan out, I'll just stick with the whole kit from trs.
 
honestly... Id stay away from that other stuff. TRS has tons of research and hands on trials with thier stuff. Also the customer service is perfect. (this is strictly an objective observation, from experience). I am not trying to push them onto anyone, but I have only had excellent experiences with them. They may be a tad on the pricey side, but it is 200% worth it, for the product and service.
 
My h1s fit in my housing no problem even with the shroud (mini Gatling gun) as for the d2s the h1 out perform them and unless you plan to run a fxr I wouldn't worry about d2s. Don't go with an 50watt as already said just buy the kit and happy retrofitting once you do one its hard not to want to do it to all the vehicles you own LOL. It makes such a big difference when driving its unbelievable.
 
2g has a lot more room than 1gb. he was talking about 1gb. I am aware that the slightly larger d2s will fit in a 2g, however it is difficult and imo not worth it in a 1g.

and thats an x2 on the MH1 being brighter than the mini d2s.

Great work. Your headlights are worth more than most of my DSMs.

LOL I hope you mean worth more than what you paid for them... :thumb: Any DSM actually worth less than 1k is hardly worth much. (as any car)

And BTW I am approved to use the college 3D printers and CNC, so it may take a while but I should have prototype shrouds very soon, and finished headlamps finally in time for the winter LOL.
 
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Thanks for the advice guys, I guess I don't need to try to reinvent the wheel here with this proven package available. I will probably order the kit this weekend, and if i need more light, I'll get the matchbox projectors later on. Thanks for this thread gslenk, although I'm not planning on modifying the projectors as you have, its been very helpful in preparing for tackling this project.
On a side note, when you painted the reflector housing black, did you also paint the turn signal area or did you leave that chrome? I've already painted the clear corners as you demonstrated, and they look sweet.

edit: never mind, i scrolled up and saw that you did not paint the turn signal housing. Picture comprehension ftw.
 
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I will probably order the kit this weekend, and if i need more light, I'll get the matchbox projectors later on.

I'm not planning on modifying the projectors as you have,


1) as you can see, you will have difficulty with a shroud solution for the matchbox projectors. Although a shroud is not 100% necessary, it greatly reduces light "noise" in the headlamp housing. You may be able to cut the shroud to fit. I would suggest trying to use the smaller microgatling shroud first if you decide to ad the matchbox route. (not microgatling 2.0)

2) you are one lucky mofo. if it were not for the LED demon eyes nor halos, this could have been done a long time ago.

but I was mocking the LED rings with the lights on, using my prototype shroud and it looks mega dope. I think it looks even better than new bmws. and I am not exagerating. I cant wait to take final shots. I would estimate that I will be 100 % done in less than a month.

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UPDATE

"Final" shroud design prototype complete. I had the peices 3D printed, this is how they look assembled.

They melted after 10 minutes (ABS plastic, I expected this) but I will be making them on a lathe/cnc out of nylon and then delrin (acetal) and see what handles the heat. My nylon 6 shavings did pretty well in my oven at 300*F (a little stinky, but no physical change, warping, melting)

The shrouds came out amazing. Fit was perfectly exact. and it doesn't look too bad. Just needs some manual cutting to route all the wires out if it correctly. and then screw holes drilled to permanently mount it.
 

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Most of my kit arrived today, still waiting on the bulbs and ballasts. Cant wait to get started!

GSLENK, did you have any issues with the projector hitting the lens? I dont have my clear lenses here right now, but with an oem lens it looks like its hitting. Ive trimmed the housing enough to where the base of the projector sits flush against the hole. Also, how did you attach the led ring? I was thinking of using hot glue.
 
I didnt use factory housings, I used aftermarket clear housings, but even so, they barely fit in. So far my mockups indicate that it will all fit even when I reseal them but if not.... Its fiberglass play time LOL

Which shrouds did you get for the mh1? and which halo ring? ccfl or LED. If it was the LED, they fit inside (sandwiched between) the parabolic lens holder, and the shroud (mini gatling). All you have to do is some sanding/dremeling of the shroud.

My final result of doing this is on page 1. I just dont trust glue to hold in that environment. Worst case, I would say use thin wire to tie it in.
 
I got the mini gatlings and the led rings. I'll have to check tonight, but i don't think there was room for the ring to foot inside the shroud. I'll try to pick up my clear lenses to check fitment also.

I stand corrected, the ring fits perfectly, but the lip needs to be sanded down like you said. I found the picture you mentioned and it makes sense now.
 
Almost done. I finished the left side housing last night. I decided, due to lack of time, and a desire to finish for once to "shortcut the inner high beam projectors.

I will use h1 size halogens in there, and they will only come on when high beams are switched on, and have no cutoff. So technically it is a quad retro with 2 "faux projectors". I reprinted my parts on abs plastic, and re formed the pvc second pieces.

All I have left to do is mount the ballasts, and relay harnesses in the car, then send switch wires and figure out how/when I want the halos/demon eyes to come on. I believe halos will be on when the parking lights are on, and eyes will be auxiliary switched. maybe make them blink with my alarm led LOL. that would be dope.

heres the left one finished. I will reseal them when I get some test driving in. should have on car pics this week (possibly tomorrow!) :hellyeah:

Pics are lights off. They naturally have a red accent inside the projectors due to painting one of the internals red. Does not effect output at all.
 

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You want to do this to a set of stock lights I have sitting around?

I'm not modding my crystal headlights, only an old set just in case it ruins my lights.
 
Those are sweet i wish someone made this for sale that would be a definite purchase,im sure for many
1gb guys and gals too. Waiting for more pics.
 
the original low beam locations are easy.

This summer break I might try my hand at thermo forming acrylic to make clear lenses. Its relatively easy once you practice and get a good mold.

I dont know how a projector would do in a furrelled lense. less than ideal certainly.

They do fit in stock housings, because I have a set of stock junkers that I butchered for measurements etc...

The high beam projectors are painful to say the least. If i didnt have my college helping with 3D printing, the cost for each pair of shrouds for the high beams would be around 150-200 and 3 weeks turnaround. (shroud only, just the plastic piece I designed)

If someone wants to help me run a small batch of high beam locations CNC'd from Derlin or Nylon 6 (temperature reasons) I wouldn't mind donating my research/design. I have plenty of STL, and MAstercam files, as well as detailed blown up diagrams of all the peices. It shouldnt take long for someone who knows what they are doing to make tool paths for these guys.

Those are sweet i wish someone made this for sale that would be a definite purchase,im sure for many
1gb guys and gals too. Waiting for more pics.

Price tag for my setup in parts/materials alone is around $800. Does not include scraped parts, spare headlights, or R+D. I'd rather buy a cnc valve cover before I spend another grand on lights LOL. If someone really seriously wants me to help them along, PM me. But research prices before you start asking.

Look up:

----2x projector kits, one is called "morimoto mini h1", the other is "matchbox h1"
-$600 base (300/pair), (add up to $100 each for extras)

---- About 50 superflux leds (phillips hpwt series or similar) PTFE/PEEK sleeved wire (heat resistant) Connectors, breadboards, CCD's (About 20) (curent limiting diodes) about $60+ for demon eyes for all 4.

----Derlin/nylon6, will cost around $50-100 for enough to make the inner shourds (raw material only) + CNC time .... I still need to find a helper LOL.

----ABS 3D printed shrouds (instead of derlin above) would run about $200 to have all my parts 3d printed. Will not withstand bulvs turned on for onger than 5 minutes (melt terribly at 10 minutes)


The cost of headlight housing is the least of the worries LOL ringing in around $40-60 for a decent set.
 
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I will be doing something similar, I bought an extra pair of MH1 lenses from TRS. I will be using hir1 bulbs in place of the 9005 High beam. im not making a shroud at this point, I'm looking at screwing it directly to the housing, and maybe painting the screws black to make them less notable. Good luck with your project, it's looking great.
 
I don't think mini h1 fits there... I might be wrong, but I do believe without serious modification they won't fit. the ones I made shrouds for are matchboxes, h1 bulb size. without a shroud, you could go hid instead of halogen. I was really wishing that is what I did as you can clearly see my agony LOL.
 
Actually, the mini h1 lens holder fits perfectly in the high beam area. I'm sure the whole projector would be too big to fit, but Im just using the lens to fill the slot and give the appearance of a second projector..Any extra light from the hir bulb is a bonus.I'll update with a picture later.
 
did you try fitting the factory lens on top of it? if so im actually really mad because I think I know why it didnt fit the first time. I probably didnt back the blacked out reflector housing all the way back into the assembly with the adjusting screws. I really wanna see that.

Anyway the smaller center ones are starting to grow on me.
 

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Its just sitting in there right now, I'm planning on drilling holes in the back and securing with machine screws and a nut, and painting them black. There is enough space, barely for the bulb to fit behind the lens. If needed, you could space it out with washers. What H1 bulb are you planning on using? I ordered the hir1 or 9011 from rockauto for $12 each. The hir bulbs supposedly have like 2300 lumen output vs around 1700 from 9005. I have no way to test the ones I received to verify, but for $12 I dont really care. Im not really using the high beams all the time
 
So how did you get them in? Did you do some massive dremeling to the blacked out stock reflector? Take a shot of the back. Why wouldn't you run a HID bulb in there? I don't think anything will melt... I was under the impression that HID burns cooler than halogen, especially the super bright halogens.

I was planning on using any cheapo h1 bulb. mine will fit fine since the h1 HID bulb is the same as any h1 halogen bulb. Maybe a JayDee-eeeM yellow one LOL.
 
I havent modified the back at all, its just the top half, no projector bowl. The lens+plastic holder was $35 at trs. I suppose you probably could fit the whole thing if you cut a big enough hole, although im not sure if we have the space available behind the headlghts. I hadnt considered using an hid bulb for the high beam because of the warm up time, although I guess it wouldnt matter too much since the main light is bixenon. I am planning on using a second set of bixenon projectors as fog lights or driving lights since we never have fog here, and I will wire the to the high beam as well.I bought a set of 3 inch fx-rs during their black friday sale for cheap. That sucker is huge!
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