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1G 1GB Quad HID Retrofit in Progress

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Ok i got it. you have to use a 9005 bulb there. That's what the oem socket will take. I was confused when you said h1, I assumed somehow you fit the bowl in there.

Idk about light output, but it will at least "look" lit up when turned on. Not much light comes "directly" from a bulb most of it is reflected out. If you were willing to show internals and such, I would have just went the matchbox setup in there raw.

That way you could still run a mostly focused HID bulb in there. I actually tested it out, and the matchbox adds very little light to the mini h1's. It just gave me more foreground light, and put a few flaws on an otherwise perfect cutoff from the mini h1.
 
The hir1 or 9011 bulb fits the 9005 socket with a little bit of trimming. Im not really concerned with output from the high beam in this case. I thought about getting the matchboxes, but TRS has been out of stock for a while. For what they cost, I would rather spend the money on a projector that complements the mh1's low beam with a killer high beam. Im kind of leaning towards keeping the fxrs for another project and getting a pair of evox-r projectors and putting them in the stock fog location, with a foreground limiter, and tying into the high beam.
 
Almost done!

I have to wire the eyes/halos to the cabin switches.

Also Align the lights properly. but Im done for today.

Its hard to capture the halos, but the eyes are easy to take pics.
 

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Looks awesome man, those led rings are super bright. Looking forward to beam shots.
 
I've been following this thread for a while to eventually do the same thing, great work!!! Especially for all the photo documentation, and sources for parts. I just need to figure a way to come to terms with dropping $179 on a part that won't make me go faster ;) BTW, if anyone is looking for clear headlights, I came across this yesterday - Eagle Talon Headlights 92-94 Chrome
 
I have this terrible feeling that those are out of stock... Also $180 is hardly the tip of the iceberg. This will cost you an entry level coilover set, or nice turbo, or SMIM, or legit tubular manifold or dope used rims, etc...

I have been getting some questions about the Demon eyes setup. I was a bit vague.

I used 8 or 9 LEDs per projector strategically placed... all 9 (3 strings of 3)on top on the larger, 4 (strings of 4 or 2)on top, 2 on each side for the smaller. The LEDs are Phillips Lumileds Superflux. Search ebay for HPWT (or HPDT, or go on futureelectronics.com, beware fakes on ebay. (all legit ones will start with HPWT, not the other way around LOL) Expect to pay between 50 cents and 15 cents depending on volume ordered. These are official leds, also CREE makes good leds but phillips are easiest to obtain.

Then the AWSOME CCD's (constant current diodes, aka LED drivers) here's the manufacture's site: Supertex
Mouser sells them reasonably priced. Stick with the CL525 or CL520 for ease of use, there are also surface mount models (extremely small, and difficult). the great thing about CCDs is that it doesnt matter how many leds are in a string, they will all be driven at a near perfect 20mA or 25mA (or any multiple/combo of the 2). The only problem would be overheating a CCD because to drive only one led, the diode will have to dissipate about 9v @ 20/25mA

I used perf boards from radio shach and some creative dremeling to make then almost snap into place. Then I butchered the Leads off of some random resistors (1/2W b/c larger leads) and soldered the random leads to the boards to secure them to the projector frame. I used PTFE coated wire because the coating will endure 500*F (more than enough LOL).

I have no secret to these, nor time to produce multiple sets. There is zero market for this specific application LOL. LMK if there are any details you need covered, that I missed.
 
I've been following this thread for a while to eventually do the same thing, great work!!! Especially for all the photo documentation, and sources for parts. I just need to figure a way to come to terms with dropping $179 on a part that won't make me go faster ;) BTW, if anyone is looking for clear headlights, I came across this yesterday - Eagle Talon Headlights 92-94 Chrome

They are out of stock I've tried all sites no one has them. Nice retro fit I'm trying to find clear headlights to start mine
 
Thats pretty cool. Good work! I like the red light. Looks like demon eyes!

Hence the name demon eyes LOL. I get what you are saying though. I was going for a demonic look. Cant wait till a little later in the semester when I can get my hands on some cnc machines so I can make it a true quad retro.
 
I got a pm about the following:
I purchased the mh1 9006 5000k complete setup. I got all my ballasts to test fire up and bulbs and everything is great. Except I notice the plug on the stock harness needs 3 pins and the kit only has 2. Am I looking at the wrong connector? Thank you for any info

The oem harness has 3 prongs on the "car" side. 1 is common, 1 is high beam, 1 is low beam. Use a test light to confirm which is which and if common is 12v+ or ground and the same for the others...
The other end is split into 2 sides. 9006 (low-normal) and 9005 (high beam).
You use these as the 'signal' for the ballasts.

The ballasts are directly connected to the bulbs. Likely h1 or ds2 but that depends on the kit you bought.

You can remove the harness from the headlamp housing since it goes from the car to the ballasts. The ballasts have 2 wires that go to each HID bulb (if H1).


Basically, of the 2 prong connectors, the low beam one goes to the low beam trigger for the ballast (turns on ballast)

The high beam 2 prong one (9005) goes to the little skimpy wired connector that you likely have to assemble from the mini H1 kit. This flips the solenoid so that you have High HID beams also when you turn on high beams. You should have a splitter so that the halogen high beams also come on.

The 3 prong plugs into its connector in your car

make sense?
 

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If I had the funds man.I'd let you mod my clear headlights..With the halo being yellow.I dont think the black housing with yellow halos would be too much,If you would consider redoing yours in yellow and trading for my clears.I think that would set the front on fire better than a clear lens with amber leds in it..

But no I know.Just another idiot idea. My bad


But I still have at least one full set of stockers if you wanna play around with them this winter.
 
I'm pulling mine back off. for some upgrades. TRS recently released a shroud for the high beam location ones... I just ordered them. If they fit, They certainly have the heat tolerance necessary to run beams full time so I might actually live up to the thread title.

FYI...

The leds are still holding up great. All LEDs in the halos AND in the demon eyes (red) still work.

Halo is white. White leds require a yellow background.

I have 2 full sets of stockers LOL. My "clean but not clear oems" and some trashed oems that I played around with to try some random things out on.
 
Im sure you have seen me post this info before but/For faded 1gb oem headlights.I use this stuff called brasso.Put some on an old sock and hand polish the lens..You will have to do it twice or more a year, but they get them almost as clear as my clear set.Ive used it on alot on foggy lenes from a few makes,So it works for more than brass thats for sure.

Awsome your getting a shroud to handle the heat.Cant wait for that update.
 
The Retrofitsource sells awesome lights/HID kits. I have the FXR 3.0 HID's on my Tacoma with Halos. I want to mod my TALON as well but have less space to do it in. Im liking the kit you went with though. We'll see.
 
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