ECMlink 1G wierd idle issue see log included

[tiedchardshark]

I got this wierd idle and i dont know what to do anymore. see log

I already did/:
Smoke test (not a single leak found)
Adjusted tps to 0.63 volt
Mounted a new rebuilded throttle body (2g becaus i cant find any 1g throttle body in the netherland or on ebay)
Calibrated the wideband sensor
Adjusted the biss screw (2 turns back after fully turning it in)
Adjusted the fpr to 37 psi and put the data below into ecmlink for the injectors
Checked timing and tried to get it as close to 5 BTDC

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What else can it be or what did i do wrong?
(Sorry for the bad technical english I am from the netherlands)

 

[AWD-Tony]

Check the ISC motor. You also need to set the throttle% and tps is slightly off. The idle values are a bit high in your VE table.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-isc-motor-testing-replacement.386663/

 

[tiedchardshark]

''The idle values are a bit high in your VE table'' do you mean the excel picture?
and i will check the isc and adjust the tps/throttle% next week when i have time

 

[AWD-Tony]

No. VE table in speed density tab. You have it at 70. It should be 40-50ish.

 

[tiedchardshark]

thank do you maybe have a picture on how it has to be?

 

[AWD-Tony]

and don’t forget to do a blt

 

[tiedchardshark]

After researching today i found this
checked wires from the wire harness connector to the ecu connector

Isc	Ecu
1 white	Pin 67	0.00 ohm	Good
2 red	Pin 107	0.00 ohm	Good
3 black	Pin 68	0.00 ohm	Good
4 blue	Pin 58	0.00 ohm	Good
5 red	Pin 107	0.00 ohm	Good
6 yellow	Pin 59	0.00 ohm	Good

checked isc sensor
1-2 42 ohm
2-3 42 ohm
4-5 41ohm
5-6 41 ohm

then i checked the ecu
see pics.
My question now: does the ecu has burned marks (see brownish colored points on the ecu board) or is this normal or is it something else/ normall for a repaired ecu.

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[Vegas Smith]

My guess would be a huge vacuum/air leak that's causing the idle to raise that high. The car might also be extremely lean. It's hard to tell at this moment.

 

[steve]

The capacitors leaked in the past and damaged some of the circuit traces. The wire is to fix the input from the ignition switch that was damaged by the leakage.

 

[tiedchardshark]

so the ecu is not fried or do i need to send it to a company that can take a look at it.
or am i able to check it with a multimeter

 

[steve]

I don't like the quality of the prior repairs so the whole is suspect.

You can check to make sure that the traces from the drivers to the ECU connector are still good but there is still a chance that the drivers are weak/damaged even though they are not burnt up. I had to make a load tester for that because I was finding that many were not able to pull the ECU side down to more than a volt or two when they needed to be very close to ground.

Anybody with a good set of eyes should be able to trace the circuit but I'll save you some time.

On a 91-94 ECU.
IC105 is ISC coils B1 (IC105 Pin 7 to ECU Pin 67) and B2 (IC105 Pin 1 to ECU Pin 68)
IC107 is ISC coils A1 (IC107 Pin 1 to ECU Pin 58) and A2 (IC107 Pin 7 to ECU Pin 59)

I didn't look at the log so I don't know what it shows.

 

[tiedchardshark]

Today i tested my new sensor that i orded last week with my non turbo ecu and with my turbo ecu (that has the v3 link)
On my non turbo ecu the sensor worked
On my turbu ecu that has the v3 link it didnt work.

I found out after i opened my ecu and took it to a guy that repairs this kind of stuff for his normal day job .
That the circuit after the isc Capacitors (capacitor was good and not leaking) was damaged so i think i found my problem. (pic will be made later)

Now i need a new ecu since that guy told me he didnt liked the repairs and he doesnt even want to try to repair it.
so who got a spare one laying around that is in a working condition.

 

[steve]

Good EPROM ECU's are going to cost you a few hundred. I'd suggest sending that one off to ECUTuning for repair, I'm sure they have seen worse.

 

[tiedchardshark]

i have send them a mail 5 min ago now we wait

 

[tiedchardshark]

i got a second eprom ecu and i brought it to a ecu repair to get the v3link from the bad ecu to the checked working ecu.
i checked that the isc working. it works great it goes up and down.
i did a boost leak test at 2.5 bar (36.2594 psi) found 3 leaks and repaired it and they dont leak now. (only the aero fpr is leaking at the adjust screw dont know if that can cause the problem but i bought a service kit for it needs 2 weeks to get here)
checked the tps voltage again its at 0.63 volt again. (when not in use it stays at 0.63 and when i start the car it shoots to 0.59 or 0.69 volt)

but i still have the idle problem what can it be now.
i have no clue anymore on what to do now can it the problem lay in the software? ( i dont have any experience on that)

this is the log of today after the boost leak fixed and the new ecu.

 

[Vegas Smith]

At this point I would suspect your wideband is hooked up incorrectly like having the wrong wideband wire hooked up to the ecu. . The wideband readings are strange to me and don't look like normal behavior. It suggests to me that you have the narrowband simulation wire hooked up instead of your wideband signal.

 

[AWD-Tony]

i got a second eprom ecu and i brought it to a ecu repair to get the v3link from the bad ecu to the checked working ecu.
i checked that the isc working. it works great it goes up and down.
i did a boost leak test at 2.5 bar (36.2594 psi) found 3 leaks and repaired it and they dont leak now. (only the aero fpr is leaking at the adjust screw dont know if that can cause the problem but i bought a service kit for it needs 2 weeks to get here)
checked the tps voltage again its at 0.63 volt again. (when not in use it stays at 0.63 and when i start the car it shoots to 0.59 or 0.69 volt)

but i still have the idle problem what can it be now.
i have no clue anymore on what to do now can it the problem lay in the software? ( i dont have any experience on that)

this is the log of today after the boost leak fixed and the new ecu.

Can’t review your log now.

I’m almost certain it’s normal to get a leak at the afpr adjustment screw when doing a blt. Set the isc when the car is idling and up to temp. Mine does the same. Car off it sits at .59 and .63 when car is idling.

 

[tiedchardshark]

Set the isc when the car is idling and up to temp. how do you do that.
also gonna look at my wideband today since i havent calibrated it for 3 months now

 

[AWD-Tony]

dsmlinktpsadjustment [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

 

[tiedchardshark]

so if i am correct
Vc = RawThrotPos when throttle closed =32
Vo = RawThrotPos when throttle open = 238

Next, solve for scale and offset as follows, using the values collected in the previous step.

Scale = 223 / (Vo - Vc) 223/(238-32)= scale
scale= 1.08 so 108%
Offset = 32 / Scale - Vc offset=32/1.08-32
offset= -2.37

 

[AWD-Tony]

Do it the easy way. Start the car and a log. Press the gas pedal all the way down and release. Stop the log and right click on the graph. You’ll see tps adjust. Then save it. You can go back and manually adjust it as well.

 

[tiedchardshark]

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the top part is from the gst throttle body and the bottom one is from the non turbo one that worked 100% does that metal piece do i just noticed this

 

[AWD-Tony]

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the top part is from the gst throttle body and the bottom one is from the non turbo one that worked 100% does that metal piece do i just noticed this

Not sure of its exact function but it’s suppose to be there. I have two turbo tb & fiac, they both have it.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Sorry. I meant tps in the posts above, not isc. But the isc still doesn't move when the car is idling. I think it should still move when it's surging.

Is that the fiac off your car? If so, run it under hot water and you should see the plunger close fully. If it doesn't, that's one problem you have.

 

[tiedchardshark]

i mounted the fiac on the car i got it from my good (that i know) working non turbo engine/throttle body so i trust that one.