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ECMlink ecmlink Posted log biss issue/knock issue/idle issue

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Norcalgsx707

10+ Year Contributor
564
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Jun 28, 2012
lake county, California
Is there a way to actually lock the tune in? so that the ecu doesnt have to wait to adjust?
I had the tune as good as could get it and the knock came back, Im getting irratated here, it's tuned the same way as I had it without knock this is crazy I don't undrstand why it keeps comming back, just for refrence the knock is showing up at around 4700 rpms I dont get it?
 
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on dsmlink Yes I did and yes i've messed with the fuel, it's weird I droped in some shock prooof in my transfer case yesterday had this thing running good off the line no knock at all, then i go and do a pull today and notice that theres knock past 4700 rpms I had to remove the biss and put on another o-ring then had to redo my tune :/, now I'm back to having knock, everything looks good too, the timing is jumping from 3.9-7.1 the, combinedFt was at -0.4 to 1.7 , maf is at 26 rev pm, isc posisition is at 30

also the knock I believe showed up at around 4.7 % or whatever which would be weird for the cel to come on if its adjusted on dsmlink to turn it on a 5.0 Idk I might have not seen it correct my comouter shut off so I lost the log

looking at wikki should I increase my deadtime to 300 like it says for 680's?
 
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nope no wideband yet I get payed soon so I'm looking for some upgrades soon, thinking about the wide band fmic and maybe some cams and a catch can, as far as my afr 14:6 to 1 I have never adjusted that, airflow is 3.4 and what do you mean by BLT

Oh boost leak test no but it's deffiently in my plans soon, I had a issue today where I got on it and the rubber tube connecting to one of the cylanoids blew of the throttle body nipple closest to the driver side, I dont know if that has anything to do with it?

Btw if Im not running the correct dead time could that create knock from a lack of fuel? I think I was running 130 deadtime
 
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Are you running the proper deadtime now? You can look up your injector deadtimes here baseinjectordata [ECMTuning - wiki]

A BLT (boost leak test) is a must, any tuning done now can just be a waste of time without it. If you find and fix any big leaks make sure to add some fuel or lower boost for safety then start your re-tune process.

If you're running a stock intercooler and too much boost that can cause knock also due to heat soak which is why it may be intermittent for you.
 
about to go set my deadtime right now and turn down my boost untill I get a fmic any idea on what a good solid cheap intercooler would be good for my 16g also do you have to buy mounting brackets n all that
 
I'm going nutts here im running 95 deadtime with 680 fuel injectors and getting a decent log but if I take it out and do a pull I will get a cel because of knock if I adjust the deadtime to 210 like recomended I will get a combinedft reading of -14 percent idk Im stumped here, if I try to level out the timming and isposistion I cant get it to 30 unless I screw the biss all the way down and everything else will be out of twack Im stumped, any advice
 
I'm getting worn out and looks like \i can't get any help and the moderators are complaining because I post something get one reply(no help) then it stays up for three days with one more reply, \i start a new subject because it's a new issue, so it is what it is, i'm sure i am not the only one with all these issues
 
Here, I'll spell it out for you.

You need to go through everything in the link I posted above. That link will contain a link to videos from ECMTuning, and one of them will show you how to get your idle in check. The listed values you see for deadtimes are not final/100% correct (you'll learn this after watching video #8 in that link I mentioned).

All of this adjustment (including BISS adjustment for the ISCPosition value) should be done with the car up to temp. The BISS needs to be adjusted slowly (1/2 turn at a time and let it settle in).

Go through that list, get all the values set properly (or as best as you can), start a new thread in the proper sub-forum (hint - this is the place), and include a log.
 
yes I do Ill post them in a few , LOL my car also died on my today after the recent tune first time that happend

sorry about all the posts man but this is my daily and I need help
 

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I will get on that I just did some more tunning with the cruise log think I got the fuel almost dialed in, heres the bad part, before I left my isposistion was at 30 got home put it in park left the car on and it was at 18 LOL this car I swear

also It ran and shifted so smooth when I did the openloop threshaold as described on the ecmlink video

will that 25% keep my tps from fluctuating

So I just set the tps to 25% on that tab and the rpms to 2500 also got out of the car to adjust the biss for the 3 millionth time it went from 30 to 26 to 23 and stayed at 23 so I got out of the car and adjusted it its running at 27 can't get it to go to thirty, but heres my last log of the night
 

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I will get on that I just did some more tunning with the cruise log think I got the fuel almost dialed in, heres the bad part, before I left my isposistion was at 30 got home put it in park left the car on and it was at 18 LOL this car I swear

Don't get too hung up on the ISCPosition. As long as it's not really low or really high and you get it somewhat close to 30, that's fine.


Norcalgsx707 said:
will that 25% keep my tps from fluctuating

Um, no. I take it you have no idea what you're adjusted or why. If you look at the tab name (ALS/Knock) and the section that you're changing values in (Knock Sensor Control), you'll see that it has nothing to do with TPS fluctuation. It's settings for the knock sensor. These settings tell the ECU when to activate the knock sensor. These values I'm telling you will help get rid of the potential for phantom knock at lower RPM's or throttle position levels.
 
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