Resolved 1g Just put car back together went to start and it’s knocking

[Breadvans]

Old engine had crank walk so i swapped in a new 6 bolt. Just went to start and it’s knocking. Am i missing something? Pre- detonation? Or far worse?

 

[TerminalTalon]

You need a starter then to start.

 

[AWD-Tony]

You need a starter then to start.

That would be my guess as well

 

[Boomdeeze]

Old engine had crank walk so i swapped in a new 6 bolt. Just went to start and it’s knocking. Am i missing something? Pre- detonation? Or far worse?

You need to chill with thinking it’s detonating or getting rod knock, you need the car to actually start to usually hear it knock unless the bearing is completely gone which I doubt is the case. Get a new starter or a known good starter and try it out.

You sure you have the correct spacer plate?

 

[Breadvans]

I got the correct spacer plate, and i bench tested the starter with no issues. It spun up on demand and went to the top and stayed until i disconnected power

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It sounds like the starter drive might have gave out after multiple attempts to start it. There isn't really a test for them but if you can turn the toothed gear BOTH directions, then it is done and IDT I have ever seen just a starter drive (bendix some call it) in years, just rebuilt starters.

 

[Breadvans]

So pull it again and see if it can spin both ways? And if it’s done just get a new one?

So update, it’s pretty much doing the same thing. But i don’t feel as if it’s missing teeth because when i try and start it up for the first time in a while it tries to engage and makes that grinding noise

An old wire broke in my car. I believe it was the trigger 2 wire because i was getting spark on cylinders 1 and 4 but not 2 and 3.

So i bought a new pigtail and put it in but now I’m not getting any rpm signal when cranking

I feel like i wired it wrong because the wires were different colors. My 1g CAS from left to to right had yellow black red and black. The new one left to right had yellow white red and black.

 

[DSMTunedKvMan]

Before going to town swaping try bigger CRANK STARTING AMPS BATTERY. Luck

 

[Breadvans]

I got a optima red top that’s pretty charged but i hooked up to my other car and jumped it just in case it was a little low, and it was still doing the same thing

 

[pauleyman]

It sounds like the starter drive might have gave out after multiple attempts to start it. There isn't really a test for them but if you can turn the toothed gear BOTH directions, then it is done and IDT I have ever seen just a starter drive (bendix some call it) in years, just rebuilt starters.

So update, it’s pretty much doing the same thing. But i don’t feel as if it’s missing teeth because when i try and start it up for the first time in a while it tries to engage and makes that grinding noise

Have you turned it by hand yet? Pull the plugs and turn it by hand. Listen and feel for problems.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Also, if the cca is low even with a fully charged battery, it will not have enough juice to turn the motor over.

 

[DSMTunedKvMan]

[If] you have cam gears set back as possible to oem degrees

 

[Breadvans]

Have you turned it by hand yet? Pull the plugs and turn it by hand. Listen and feel for problems.

Yeah i turned it by hand. Didn’t hear anything, didn’t feel anything. Felt perfectly normal

Also, if the cca is low even with a fully charged battery, it will not have enough juice to turn the motor over.

Well i was jumping it as i was trying to start and it was still just spinning

[If] you have cam gears set back as possible to oem degrees

Wdym? Not exactly what you sure

Okay looked it up and i just have the oem cam gears not after market

 

[DSMTunedKvMan]

Wdym? Not exactly what you sure

Just making sure

 

[DSMPT]

Are you sure it's in neutral? And did you make sure nothing is contacting with the clutch PP and flywheel?

 

[Breadvans]

Are you sure it's in neutral? And did you make sure nothing is contacting with the clutch PP plate and flywheel?

I’m sure the shifter is in neutral. And i got my cables hooked up. I haven’t tried moving the wheels or anything. And no i haven’t made sure of that yet how should i go about that

 

[AWD-Tony]

I had the breather boot off a while back but unsure if you can see much.

 

[Wizeman76]

One option, if at all possible, would be to bump start it, thus taking the starter out of the equation.

If you're happy the transmission is in neutral and the car can move about, it can select all gears and so on, get it up to speed then pop it in to 4th gear and let the clutch out, see if it starts.

It does seem to sound like the bendix gear in the starter is not engaging correctly with the flywheel teeth, to prove this, bump start the car.

 

[Breadvans]

i would like to try that but it’s not fully put together and i don’t believe the starter isn’t the only problem for it not starting. I just can’t diagnose the rest if i can’t even get it to crank

So i also looked up starter plates and mines different.
It came with the car and i didn’t know any better so i put it back in but there’s no hole for the starter. There’s no material there whatsoever.

I ordered the correct one and I’m going to swap it next week when it gets here

 

[AWD-Tony]

So i also looked up starter plates and mines different. It came with the car and i didn’t know any better and i put it back in but there’s no hole for the starter. There’s no material there whatsoever. So i ordered the correct one and I’m going to swap it next week when it gets here

Think someone mentioned that. But yeah, that needs to be there to space the starter and secure it to the block. Hopefully that’s it. Good luck

 

[Wizeman76]

Yes, engaging too far (lack of spacer) and jamming, good shout both

Edit: To save taking the gearbox off, add a couple of washers between the starter and the block to simulate the plate being there just for testing purposes, see if this was the issue.

 

[Breadvans]

Think someone mentioned that. But yeah, that needs to be there to space the starter and secure it to the block. Hopefully that’s it. Good luck

Yeah someone did, i just didn’t know what the starter plate was supposed to look like, doi

 

[pauleyman]

So i also looked up starter plates and mines different. It came with the car and i didn’t know any better and i put it back in but there’s no hole for the starter. There’s no material there whatsoever. So i ordered the correct one and I’m going to swap it next week when it gets here

Can you elaborate? What did it look like? Are you saying the starter is bolted directly to the trans without the benefit of the plate but the trans is still spaced? Your post is a little confusing.

 

[Breadvans]

Can you elaborate? What did it look like? Are you saying the starter is bolted directly to the trans without the benefit of the plate but the trans is still spaced? Your post is a little confusing.

yeah it was just didn’t have the section for the starter. So it kinda mirrored the block. I haven’t been able to even find another plate that looks like it so i don’t know who thought it was a good idea to change that out

 

[Breadvans]

Yes, engaging too far (lack of spacer) and jamming, good shout both

Edit: To save taking the gearbox off, add a couple of washers between the starter and the block to simulate the plate being there just for testing purposes, see if this was the issue.

Doesn’t the plate also hold it in place? So how would i go about making sure the starter is in the correct place with washers

 

[AWD-Tony]

They’re cheap $31 on close out. Choose the correct application

OEM Cylinder Block Starter Plate Spacer : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-94 & FWD M/T, FWD A/T & AWD A/T

OEM Cylinder Block Plate/Spacer : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-94Fits manual transmission only.

www.extremepsi.com