1G Car died out on me and wont start back up just cranks over n over

[talontsiboy24]

Yesterday everything was fine i was driving the car and then it started acting up i looked at my wideband when this was happening and it went super lean and the gauge read no numbers and the coolant resovoir light came on the one that looks like a little house and the car died out on me. it wouldnt run again but it did crank over n over but no start. The next day i went to start it up again and it turned on and died instantly then i tried again and nothing just cranks over. I heard this could be the coolant temp sensor so i took the old one out and installed a brand new one and still it wont run? When that lil house light came on in the dash i looked at the temp gauge and it was normal in the middle so i know it wasnt over heating.

Coolant is full no leaks anywhere either. Oil is full. trans is full.
New plugs New Wires both have less then 2500miles on them
Checked all the belts including the timing and there all fine no rips.
New alternator and belt and the battery is putting out the correct volts.
Starter clicks when i turn the car to the on position.

 

[2ndGenTurbo]

The light that looks like a house is suppose to be a radiator. Which does indicate u have a cooling issue. Did the light go away after u installed new ect? Any dtc's? (check engine light).

 

[talontsiboy24]

The light that looks like a house is suppose to be a radiator. Which does indicate u have a cooling issue. Did the light go away after u installed new ect? Any dtc's? (check engine light).

no check engine light just the light that looks like a radiator and no the light is still on even after the new sensor installed. it cant be a fuel issue right cause the coolant light came on? would a bad o2 sensor cause this bad fuel pump or bad fuel filter?

 

[DSM1G90]

That light is the coolant level for the overflow bottle.

It comes on when the level in the bottle is low. Thus, it warns you to check your level in the radiator since the vacuum created by the coolant cooling down in the radiator has pulled all of the coolant in the bottle.

You fill the radiator first right below the neck, then put on the radiator cap. Then, you fill the bottle to the "Full" line.

What was the Temp gauge displaying when this light came on?

But, you go replacing that temp sensor and if any bare wires touched ground, it could have taken out the ECU by blowing the ground traces on the momboard in this ECU causing you not having any startups ... best check this area out.

-DSM

 

[talontsiboy24]

That light is the coolant level for the overflow bottle.

It comes on when the level in the bottle is low. Thus, it warns you to check your level in the radiator since the vacuum created by the coolant cooling down in the radiator has pulled all of the coolant in the bottle.

You fill the radiator first right below the neck, then put on the radiator cap. Then, you fill the bottle to the "Full" line.

What was the Temp gauge displaying when this light came on?

But, you go replacing that temp sensor and if any bare wires touched ground, it could have taken out the ECU by blowing the ground traces on the momboard in this ECU causing you not having any startups ... best check this area out.

-DSM

the coolant is full and the stock temp gauge was reading in the middle so it wasnt overheating and i was told that even if the coolant was a lil low or that light came on it wouldnt cause the car to die out and not run again. This happened before i replaced the sensor with a new one it just didnt wanna turn back on.I Tried starting it this morning and it fired up and died instantly then i installed the new sensor and still no start. I tested the old and new sensor there both working so i didnt even need a new sensor. i checked the connector for volts and i got a good reading that the connector is workin. how can i test the ecu making sure its working cause i dont have a logger but i do have a multimeter?


Is it possible the fuel pump went out? its a walbro rewired and theres a red power wire running from the fuel pump to a fuse and then to the battery i checked the fuse and its fine but is there a way i can make sure there is power in that red line goin to the battery? or a way i can tell the fuel pump is working?

When i put the key in the on position aren't the lights in the dash like the battery etc suppose to go away after a couple seconds?

 

[DSM1G90]

or a way i can tell the fuel pump is working?

there is a trick, or an actual plug that you can use to test fuel pumps with the key off. Right behind the battery in the harness against the firewall, is a small flat plug with a cover on it (Please don't confuse this with the ECU grounding plug due this fuel pump plug is a lot smaller than the ECU grounding plug). This goes directly to the pump positive lead. You take a jumper wire and touch the inside of this plug and touch the positive of the battery. Then squeeze the fuel line heading into the fuel rail and you should feel pressure build up in that line. If so, the pump is good.

and i was told that even if the coolant was a lil low or that light came on it wouldnt cause the car to die out and not run again.

Nope, this should have no effect on motor operation. It's just a warning light to remind the operator of low coolant in the bottle. Mine does the same when the bottle gets low and I just refill it and the light goes out.

When i put the key in the on position aren't the lights in the dash like the battery etc suppose to go away after a couple seconds?

No, should stay on all the time until the system starts and the alternator takes over. Is your stock Tach still operational, or disabled for an add-on tach? If stock, does the needle point to "zero" (which is getting the signal from the ECU for to receive the necessary signals..) with key in the "on" position, or does it head straight down to the "minus-7" position on the dial? If it heads to the "minus-7" and just stays there, ECU is popped and needs rebuilt.

Sorry this had to happen to you .....

Good luck-DSM

 

[steve]

What's the battery voltage?

 

[talontsiboy24]

What's the battery voltage?

the battery is putting out correct volts like 12.4-12.5 with the car dead cold.

there is a trick, or an actual plug that you can use to test fuel pumps with the key off. Right behind the battery in the harness against the firewall, is a small flat plug with a cover on it (Please don't confuse this with the ECU grounding plug due this fuel pump plug is a lot smaller than the ECU grounding plug). This goes directly to the pump positive lead. You take a jumper wire and touch the inside of this plug and touch the positive of the battery. Then squeeze the fuel line heading into the fuel rail and you should feel pressure build up in that line. If so, the pump is good.

Nope, this should have no effect on motor operation. It's just a warning light to remind the operator of low coolant in the bottle. Mine does the same when the bottle gets low and I just refill it and the light goes out.

No, should stay on all the time until the system starts and the alternator takes over. Is your stock Tach still operational, or disabled for an add-on tach? If stock, does the needle point to "zero" (which is getting the signal from the ECU for to receive the necessary signals..) with key in the "on" position, or does it head straight down to the "minus-7" position on the dial? If it heads to the "minus-7" and just stays there, ECU is popped and needs rebuilt.

Sorry this had to happen to you .....

Good luck-DSM

The lights in the dash do stay on when i put it in the on position but the coolant reservoir light stays on to shouldn't it go away? the cel light goes away which is normal. Which tach are you talking about the rpms?

 

[steve]

He's talking about the factory boost gauge.

 

[xxxspeedxxx]

the same thing happened to me. i end up snapping my timing belt. so check you timing.

 

[talontsiboy24]

He's talking about the factory boost gauge.

oh yea i still have the stock boost gauge so turn the key in the on position and see if the needle points to zero or -7 correct?

the same thing happened to me. i end up snapping my timing belt. so check you timing.

Read the first thing i posted above i said all belts been checked they are not snapped.

 

[xxxspeedxxx]

oh yea i still have the stock boost gauge so turn the key in the on position and see if the needle points to zero or -7 correct?



Read the first thing i posted above i said all belts been checked they are not snapped.

o my bad,

 

[DSM1G90]

(Sorry on that - meant the stock boost gauge, not the tach...my bad .. had that tach area in mind - bad brain cramp.)

so turn the key in the on position and see if the needle points to zero or -7 correct?

Yep. "zero" = okey ECU. "-7" = ECU with problems.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Thanks for all your help guys i found the problem it was the coolant temp sensor connector wires touching each other is why it didnt want to start im gonna get some heat shrink to put over the connections will the heat shrink heat up with the engine bay heat or i need a gun cause that area where the coolant temp sensor is gets hot as hell so i figured the heat shrink would cure? electric tape is not holding up on those wires its too hot around there it just melts in the wires causing a bad connection.

 

[DSM1G90]

Solder the wire connections first, then put the shrink tube over it.

A match or lighter does a neat job in shrinking the tube.

(and let's work on the punctuation, capitializatons so we can read your posts better - run together words are hard to follow...)

-DSM

 

[Projectwedge]

I had an almost identical problem...i tested the cas buy spining it by hand and i couldnt get any spark or fuel...hooked a new one up and did same test and heard the injectors fire and saw spark

 

[talontsiboy24]

Solder the wire connections first, then put the shrink tube over it.

A match or lighter does a neat job in shrinking the tube.

(and let's work on the punctuation, capitializatons so we can read your posts better - run together words are hard to follow...)

-DSM

im back again cause im having the same problem is it possible i blew a fuse that has to do with the coolant temp sensor or connector? im getting 4.7volts from the connector and when i hookup the connector to the sensor i hear a clicking noise so i know theres a connection there?

 

[steve]

There is no fuse having to do with the coolant temp sensor or connector

 

[El Cuervo]

Do you have a logger? What does it read? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so, does it read any pressure after a few cranks? If so, then you can rule out the fuel pump. Check each spark plug/wire for spark. Remove a spark plug and wire from the cylinder. Ground the spark plug to the negative battery. Then have someone crank the car and check for spark. Check all plugs. If no spark, then usually its the cas. Now it can be some other things like coil pack, spark plugs and wires, some fuses or something in the ecu. However, in my experience, I have found out that usually its the cam angle sensor. This is specially if you have green cas, as they tend to go out more often than the more reliable black cas from the 93-94 1g. I already had to replace mine 2 times.
hope this helps.

 

[talontsiboy24]

is it possible the coolant temp sensor caught a short in it and failed when i was doin the new wiring for the connector?

 

[talontsiboy24]

There is no fuse having to do with the coolant temp sensor or connector

Would a bad o2 sensor cause the car not to start i wouldnt think so?

 

[steve]

Would a bad o2 sensor cause the car not to start i wouldnt think so?

Not the sensor, but I've seen people cheap out and use a universal sensor and mess up wring it in. That has caused the car not to start, cause they blew the sensor ground.