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Resolved 1G Alternator died should I get a Galant VR4 alternator instead?

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talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
868
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
My alternator died in my 92 Eagle Talon a few days ago and a lot of people are telling me to upgrade to the Galant VR4 one because its 90amps and for the 1g auto its 75amp. But I heard I need to upgrade the 75amp fuse to a 90. Is that all I have to do or is it gonna be harder to install it? Does AutoZone carry the alternator fuses?

I'm guessing it's not cause it's 75amp why it died it's from the excessive heat cause I heard a lot of people having problems like this and they end up relocating it and are fine. But I still have my heat shields on and I only run 2 digital gauges and A/C is removed so I don't think I need a 90amp?

What are the benefits for me to run a higher amp alternator when I think I don't need one?
 
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Thanks guys for all your help i ended up buying a stock 75amp alternator and couldnt be any happier! I really didnt need any higher then that im not running krazy electronics.

My battery wasnt completley dead since i got some noise when i put the key but when i installed the new alternator i still had to give it a jump to start and when it fired up i still left the jumper cables on the battery so the juice can rise up faster so the alternator wont burn trying to charge the battery back up is this ok? i took the jumper cables off after like 5min and then the car ran on its own and i let it run for like 23min and then i went for a drive.
LOL. When I say the title I thought you were planning on buying a Galant VR4 just because your alternator died.
 
A 90 amp will pump out more power for things like stereo systems and more accessories without putting as much strain on the engine.
 
I put a VR4 alternator in my 1G when mine died on me. It's a direct bolt-on. Just make sure to replace the normal fusible link. I forget but I think I switched mine to 110a.
 
Never heat shield a DSM Alternator since both fans - front and back of the rotor shaft - are inside the frame continually moving the necessary air (which is the better design than the GM type with the external fan that has to pull air through the case) to keep things in a comfortable state at all times.

You heat shield that thing and you visits to Auto"CRAP"zone will be routine.

-DSM
 
LOL. When I say the title I thought you were planning on buying a Galant VR4 just because your alternator died.
haha thats what i thought. maybe next time i have to change the oil i'll just upgrade to an evo.

A 90 amp will pump out more power for things like stereo systems and more accessories without putting as much strain on the engine.

:hmm: :aha: :boring::ohdamn::banghead:
 
If you're not running anything that draws significant extra power than stock (eg. high power amp, higher power ignition, extra road lights, etc), there's no advantage to installing a larger alt. If the system needs 50 amps that is what it will draw no matter how large capacity alt you have.

Alts fail very fast if any oil gets in them so check to make sure your power steering pump is not leaking on it (which is a typical failure senerio).

As far as what stock 2g's have, the U.S. turbo has a 75A, all NT and 2.4L auto have 90A, and all Canadian dsms have 90A (due to Daytime running lights feature).
 
Course, I'm concerned with higher amp draw that larger gauge wire along with more numbers of strands per gauge (like a 30 strand aganst a 25 strand in a 12gauge wireset) wire is needed when connected to that higher amp drawing device along with the larger amp rated fuse.

Otherwise, electrical fires can result.
 
LOL. When I say the title I thought you were planning on buying a Galant VR4 just because your alternator died.

Oh sorry about that guys i fixed it :ohdamn: LOL

If you're not running anything that draws significant extra power than stock (eg. high power amp, higher power ignition, extra road lights, etc), there's no advantage to installing a larger alt. If the system needs 50 amps that is what it will draw no matter how large capacity alt you have.

Alts fail very fast if any oil gets in them so check to make sure your power steering pump is not leaking on it (which is a typical failure senerio).

As far as what stock 2g's have, the U.S. turbo has a 75A, all NT and 2.4L auto have 90A, and all Canadian dsms have 90A (due to Daytime running lights feature).

All i have extra is a rewired fuel pump and 3 digital gauges that draw electric power then stock but my a.c is removed so i think 75amps will be ok for me.
 
Course, I'm concerned with higher amp draw that larger gauge wire along with more numbers of strands per gauge (like a 30 strand aganst a 25 strand in a 12gauge wireset) wire is needed when connected to that higher amp drawing device along with the larger amp rated fuse.

Otherwise, electrical fires can result.


so does the convertible 2.4L eclipses have a larger gauge alternator wire? if so will it work in my 2g AWD? I have a basically stock electrical, but plan on making a little 10' sub for the trunk and want the extra power just in case.


Also is there more load on the engine with the 90A?
 
If you're not running anything that draws significant extra power than stock (eg. high power amp, higher power ignition, extra road lights, etc), there's no advantage to installing a larger alt. If the system needs 50 amps that is what it will draw no matter how large capacity alt you have.

Alts fail very fast if any oil gets in them so check to make sure your power steering pump is not leaking on it (which is a typical failure senerio).

As far as what stock 2g's have, the U.S. turbo has a 75A, all NT and 2.4L auto have 90A, and all Canadian dsms have 90A (due to Daytime running lights feature).

Yea mine died cause the power steering pump was leaking into it but I was wondering if your alternator is starting to go bad but not fully can it give you false air fuel ratio readings and cause misfires?

I got this 2000F+ inferno metal repair stuff I was thinkin to put on that power steering bolt so it will stop leaking will that be ok?
 
You can also just buy an automatic alternator, it is higher amperage and direct bolt on with no modifications, will cut into your horsepower and mileage a little but if you run stereo system or electric pumps or fans it will help some. I switched over to an automatic alternator and kept the stock manual fuse, never had an issue yet.

Yea mine died cause the power steering pump was leaking into it but I was wondering if your alternator is starting to go bad but not fully can it give you false air fuel ratio readings and cause misfires?

Low voltage can cause misfire but dunno about the air fuel ratio reading.
 
Thanks guys for all your help i ended up buying a stock 75amp alternator and couldnt be any happier! I really didnt need any higher then that im not running krazy electronics.

My battery wasnt completley dead since i got some noise when i put the key but when i installed the new alternator i still had to give it a jump to start and when it fired up i still left the jumper cables on the battery so the juice can rise up faster so the alternator wont burn trying to charge the battery back up is this ok? i took the jumper cables off after like 5min and then the car ran on its own and i let it run for like 23min and then i went for a drive.
 
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