1G Alternator Voltage problems

[Skreperiukas]

Hello. I have 1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS and a new problem has arrisen...

Problem:
I am currently experiencing a problem where my alternator wont charge, but waiiiit, dont click off! Sometime momentarely for a few minutes it DOES start charging. I don't think that it is the alternators fault, because I have replaced it last year and it has like 3k kilometers of use (tho sometimes things break). Also when the engine is running the battery light comes up and reving the engine dimmers it (at 2.5k RPMs its fully turned off).
Theory:
My working theory is that it has something to do with wiring and or voltage regulator. After inspecting the connector and its wiring, it seems that something has been made there by the last owner, because there were a lot of dangling wiring, some random connectors that go nowhere and duct tape (I will send a picture tomorrow as it is dark here in EU already).
When it begun:
Last winter when we had snow I eclipse to do some "funnies" in the parking lot and I am pretty sure that after that this problem occured.

If anyone has ideas or can send pictures of their alternator connection wiring, I would really appreciate it

 

[Justin DuBois]

DSM alternators are FAMOUS for dying with voltage regulating issues. - Pull it - Take it for testing.

These alternators are in the worst possible location for heat, and any amount of performance increase with mods will expose the issue faster and and with more frequency.

Seriously - we cart a spare around for any long trip or race event.

 

[stealthee]

Mileage is irrelevant. If it were wiring then revving wouldn't help. Chances are the alternator is bad.

 

[Skreperiukas]

DSM alternators are FAMOUS for dying with voltage regulating issues. - Pull it - Take it for testing.

These alternators are in the worst possible location for heat, and any amount of performance increase with mods will expose the issue faster and and with more frequency.

Seriously - we cart a spare around for any long trip or race event.

Geee, thanks. Any recomendations? Should I go stock or get an aftermarket one? I was thinking on getting a higher amperage one because I was going to go for a hefty stereo later down the line.

 

[dwb]

I vote for bad alternator. Random dash lights almost always indicate a failing alternator in a DSM. Even if it's "only" the voltage regulator because it's an internal part of the alternator.

Sometimes you can take them apart and find a broken solder joint and fix it, other times you might as well just buy a new/reman one. I seem to recall there was a discussion here a couple months ago if a 90amp Galant alternator will work in a GS, so something to look into regarding a higher output unit.

I'm not sure if you have access to part stores that offer a lifetime warranty for reman alts like we do in the US. That's what I've used for the better part of 10 years and it's saved me a ton of cash but costs me a few hours each time I have to swap it. I don't mind swapping them as long as I can find a working reman.

 

[miliman13]

If you have a clam on style multimeter you can measure the Amps from the alternator at different points to test it without removing it, this of course will only tell you about current and not about voltage regulators but still, neat.

mines measures 20 Amps at idle

 

[Skreperiukas]

I vote for bad alternator. Random dash lights almost always indicate a failing alternator in a DSM. Even if it's "only" the voltage regulator because it's an internal part of the alternator.

Sometimes you can take them apart and find a broken solder joint and fix it, other times you might as well just buy a new/reman one. I seem to recall there was a discussion here a couple months ago if a 90amp Galant alternator will work in a GS, so something to look into regarding a higher output unit.

I'm not sure if you have access to part stores that offer a lifetime warranty for reman alts like we do in the US. That's what I've used for the better part of 10 years and it's saved me a ton of cash but costs me a few hours each time I have to swap it. I don't mind swapping them as long as I can find a working reman.

Sadly in EU we do not have the commodity of having lifetime warranty. In my country we dont even have any auto part shops at all. Everything needs to be ordered from Germany or Poland or bought second hand. This sucks.

Also I wanted to ask if there is a way to isolate alternator from the exhaust manifold so it lasts longer? Either bolt on or wrap on.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Geee, thanks. Any recomendations? Should I go stock or get an aftermarket one? I was thinking on getting a higher amperage one because I was going to go for a hefty stereo later down the line.

Building a heat shield is a good idea - ducting in some air flow is another good idea. Higher amperage is fine, but the heat issue is the same. Some on this forum swear by the Saturn 200amp alt - which requires a different tensioning bracket. You will also find a relocation solution to put the altenator where the AC compressor used to live.