1998 Eagle Talon street build monster

[ThunderChild]

it looks like instead of cutting that piece completely out for the a/c bracket, you could just grind away a bit of the material. but its kinda hard too tell.

kewl build, good luck with it!

 

[BlackKnight2013]

it looks like instead of cutting that piece completely out for the a/c bracket, you could just grind away a bit of the material. but its kinda hard too tell.

kewl build, good luck with it!

if i were to grind it i would still get interference with trying to get a wrench in there to tighten the fitting. and with the pictures it is a bit hard to tell what the situation is.

thanks for the compliment. i hope everything will go smoothly from here on out.[DOUBLEPOST=1408235710][/DOUBLEPOST]started to mess around with paint color schemes for the car when it goes for paint.

here's one quick drawing i drew (yes, i know i suck at drawing):

 

[BlackKnight2013]

just got my crank sensor after it being on back order for a month; also got my new headlights for the car. the old right front headlight low beam bulb cover broke off a week ago and is not repairable. i got the halo wiring kit and the HID conversion kit for the high and low beams. here's a few photos of the old broken head light and the new ones.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

finished installing the new headlights last night. uploading a video of the install on my youtube channel.
here's a few pictures i took. one of the new headlights in and took the chance to see how the intercooler i have would fit on the car.

headlights:


intercooler:

 

[BlackKnight2013]

installed the oil pressure switch tee fitting to get oil feed to the turbo. will be changing the 4an line fitting to accommodate for the oil constrictor fitting.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

fixed part of the suspension today. had a right rear trailing arm break on me about two months ago.
here's the old on, you can see were it broke and where i welded it back togther:



here's the new replacement arms:






here it is in the car:




engine update:
the turbo manifold is all tacked up and being mocked up on a sample car to check for clearances and to make the down pipe before the final welding is done. should have the manifold, down pipe, turbo and wastegate back in about three weeks. then i can make my oil lines and drain lines for the turbo.

 

[buhay6]

Good work so far man, I would have lost interest after so much time had passed.....it was hard enough for me to wait 2.5 years to drive my car for the first time haha.
How much that Megan trailing arm run you? that's a nice piece.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

Good work so far man, I would have lost interest after so much time had passed.....it was hard enough for me to wait 2.5 years to drive my car for the first time haha.
How much that Megan trailing arm run you? that's a nice piece.

thanks. i have been working on this whole build for about three+ years now. im so ready to swap the engine and fire it up but i got some other pieces i need before i do that. i just want to do it right once and not do it again.

the megan trailing arms cost me around 190 dollars for the set. here's a link to the trailing arms: http://www.meganracing.com/product_detail.asp?prodid=935&catid=96

megan racing also offers adjustable toe control arms as well( excludes the gsx model though), here's the link for that: http://www.meganracing.com/product_detail.asp?prodid=1699&catid=96

 

[Mitsumungst-gvr4-tsi]

Please don't take this the wrong way, everyone who doesn't practice welding or know how will suck at it. But please take some welding lessons or practice on some junk stock. In the pic of trailing arm fix that's junk bro. You haven't penetrated at all and just have balls of wire sitting on top of everything. You need to clean the area your going to weld with a disc or wire wheel. This way you penetrate and get a nice smooth bead. And also you need to get the proper heat and feed rate for the wire for the piece your working on. I bet you can smack that control arm with a hammer and it falls apart! Just saying be carful and practice first. Throw that thing out or grind all the crap off and use it for practice! This is what you want bro!! Think about your safety bro! Other than that looking good bro! You will have a blast with it once your done, going to be a beast I'm sure!

 

[BlackKnight2013]

Please don't take this the wrong way, everyone who doesn't practice welding or know how will suck at it. But please take some welding lessons or practice on some junk stock. In the pic of trailing arm fix that's junk bro. You haven't penetrated at all and just have balls of wire sitting on top of everything. You need to clean the area your going to weld with a disc or wire wheel. This way you penetrate and get a nice smooth bead. And also you need to get the proper heat and feed rate for the wire for the piece your working on. I bet you can smack that control arm with a hammer and it falls apart! Just saying be carful and practice first. Throw that thing out or grind all the crap off and use it for practice! This is what you want bro!! Think about your safety bro! Other than that looking good bro! You will have a blast with it once your done, going to be a beast I'm sure!

one, i don't weld very often and i know it doesn't look pretty; and it did penetrate well because i had the settings a little hotter than i needed so please back off on the welding stuff.. two i took welding lessons in high school and im a lot better at stick welding than mig. three i did clean it off really well before i welded. four, i was in a hurry because i had to be somewhere and this car is my only transportation; so it was a quick temporary fix. i know it doesn't look pretty ok. i was only showing what happened, the temporary fix until i got the new trailing arms, and the final right fix.

other than all that, i hope it will be beast. especially since i put a lot of time and money into the engine.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

was at the colorado dsm/evo meet this past sunday. here's a link to some photos: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/...073741827.100003645092029&type=1&l=2755f5c560

be a few weeks more until i get the new turbo manifold. getting ready to pay it off in a few days. once the manifold is here, i'll start plumbing the oil feed and return line for it. still collecting some fuel line components. Going to start saving for the fuel injectors and a few custom aluminum pieces.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

finally installed my turbo oil drain fix today. got the flange then had to find new gaskets for the flang, which took a little bit. then had to order a new 90* -10an to 1/2" npt fitting since my other one is stuck in the other flange that was incorrect size.
here's a few photos:




got a mishimoto 180*f thermostat and installed that today. a tid bit, for those of you who don't remember which way a thermostat faces, the sensing element faces the engine block on most engines and the little hole with a one way plug faces upward to allow the cooling system to bleed when you pour coolant into the cooling system.





also installed my turbo oil restrictor fitting as well.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

just finished installing the crank sensor. have .019" gap clearance; glad i didn't have to shim the sensor since the crankshaft in the engine is an aftermarket stroker crank. video will be up shortly.

 

[420a DSM]

How is this build going? Looks great, I just got my 420a was wondering what you decided to use for engine management?

 

[BlackKnight2013]

How is this build going? Looks great, I just got my 420a was wondering what you decided to use for engine management?

the build is going good so far. still collecting parts for the instillation of the new engine and transmission. right now i am set on using a piggy back system from greddy. there is a full stand alone system called megasquirt for the 420a engine. but since my build is a street type build i also have to deal with obd2 emission testing here in colorado, which means they plug a connector into your car as they run the emission test to watch for emission related codes to appear during the test. which in turn means i have to keep the factory computer and use some other means to control fuel and ignition timing, and that's why i choose the piggy back system. there are universal stand alone computers out there as well but you will have to tune the fuel and ignition maps from scratch. you may or may not have to do that with megasquirt. with the greddy piggyback system i can use the factory computers maps as a starting point and then add or subtract from each map that i need to compensate for the turbo set up.

here's the video of the crank sensor install i forgot to share a link for:

 

[420a DSM]

I was thinking of using megasquirt, no emmisions testing here in FL.[DOUBLEPOST=1414289381][/DOUBLEPOST]Parts are hard to find for the 420a, where did you get the stroker kit?

 

[BlackKnight2013]

i know of a person that can make you a megasquirt for your car. ill send you the info in a private message. as for the stroker kit, the crankshaft is no longer available and neither are the custom pistons from cp for the kit are made anymore. the stroker crank is from callies, its the compstar series for the dodge neon 95 to 99 models. i got roughly 80% of my engine internals from race engineering. here's a direct link to the 420a section: http://www.raceeng.com/c-387-420a.aspx if you call and talk to rob he can match or beat any competitor pricing from other websites as long as you show proof. they also offer kit deals if you buy certain parts like bearings, pitons and rods it will be a combo price which will be slightly cheaper. some of my other parts cam from xtreme fabrications, here's the website for it: http://xtremefabrications.com/. the intake manifold i have is from venom performance but it is no longer available and has been discontinued. i would highly suggest you avoid dsm graveyard at all cost. i did get a few things from ci motorsports but i would avoid buying from them as well. jegs and summit racing are good places for hoses and fittings for braided lines as well as some engine parts.

 

[420a DSM]

Some great info, thanks alot. I found a bc stroker kit, its costly. My plan is to try for the stock block fastest 420a, then fastest na, finally a rear drive E85.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

be aware, if you find a kit be sure its for the 420a engine. i find some parts listed for the 420a but are actually for the 4g63 engines. its good to call and inquire about the part before buying.

 

[420a DSM]

I would be crushed if that happend, thanks for all advice.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

I would be crushed if that happend, thanks for all advice.

yw. ill message back and forth with you in private message now so my journal doesn't get cluttered.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

just bought my boost controller, should see it in two to three weeks due to a back order.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

just bought a piggyback system to control fuel and ignition timing, cant wait to get it. all the pieces are starting to fall into place. hope to have the build done before 2015 race season, but not getting my hopes up.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

here's some photos for the boost controller i just got today from apexi:



what comes in the box:

 

[BlackKnight2013]

just got the greddy E-Management Ultimate and the 2.5 meter complete harness, also the wide band option harness and boost pressure sensor harness.

Here are some pictures:

control unit with a ruler for size comparison, please excuse the writing on the ruler.





update:

turbo manifold is finally finished and should ship out this friday or monday. will have pictures and a video of it when it gets here.