1998 Eagle Talon street build monster

[BlackKnight2013]

new videos:

 

[BlackKnight2013]

factory engine control module took a dump on me a few months, two injector drivers gave up the ghost, ago shortly after getting the car to run again; after replacing the valves (not the greddy piggy back computer). i just ordered a new refurbished computer today. ive always been really skeptical about re-manufactured computers as some dont work out of the box. even after they say it's been 100% tested. which i find to be some what b.s. just have to see how it goes. computer will be here Tuesday and then gotta get it programmed.

On another note, i am planning to be at KBPI car show this year with this car at bandimere speedway in morrison colorado, even if i have to tow it there and back. i missed two of my big events i normally do annually, but will make it back to them next year hopefully after i get emission testing figured out.

Ive got a few loose ends to tie up still regarding the methanol reservoir tank and the new sub box to be built still. gotta swap the correct hub and axle kit in still as well. then engine build will pretty much be finished after tuning is done then gotta finish the suspension. once it's all complete car will go to painters for a freshened up paint job. just discovered rust developing on the front strut towers. found paint bubbling up and then it dawned on me what it was. for original paint, it has lasted a long time. when it goes to the painters, im deciding whether to take the engine out and have the whole bay repainted at the same time as the rest of the car. and deciding on using a body kit or leaking the factory bumpers on. the stock look has really grown on me and don't really want to change it; beside patching a few holes in the trunk lid after changing the spoiler.

just have to wait and see what the future brings.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

well, i finally figured out what was causing some of my running issues with my talon. ill try to keep it short, but no promises. i had rebuild part of the cylinder head after a timing key failure on the crankshaft sprocket. afterwards the car somewhat ran. after digging through it a little i found it was only running on two cylinders. it had strong spark on all cylinders; timing belt was on correctly. everything was hooked up right. so i looked into it further and found injector 1 and 3 were not firing but 2 and 4 were firing. so then i verified all the wiring for the piggy back system that i have was correct. verified injector pulses at injectors and piggy back system, this is how i found two injectors not firing. at this point i thought the injector drivers in the main pcm were bad; so i got a refurbished computer. well this didn't change anything. so i said screw it unplug the cam sensor and load and behold it ran on all 4 cylinders with an intermittent cylinder 1 injector not firing due to a loose connection but that was easily remedied. plugged the cam sensor back in and problem is the same before unplugging it. then i verified 5v, 8v and signal wires with the cam sensor connector plugged in (this is also known as back probing). it has all three needed. so i tried a new cam sensor and still had the same issue. even unplugging the vss sensor, still no change. at this point i looked for shorts and found a short to power from the asd relay. this is were it gets really really weird. i traced the short and got one step away after pulling the 30amp engine fuse in the under hood fuse block. short is gone, then put the fuse back in and the short never reappeared at all. so i plugged everything back in, and the problem still exists; except this time now only injector 1 and 2 are not firing and 3 and 4 are. this had me stumped in aahh of weirdom (this i found out by checking injector pulses at the piggy back system with the cam sensor plugged in after each part i tried). so i sat for a day or so staring at wiring diagrams... and looking through identafix and retracing my steps of what i have done and tried. at this point i decided to try lab scoping the signal but would have to wait until the weekend to use the shop i work at. in the mean time i decided to try a crank sensor...... load and behold, this fixed everything. check engine light is out now and it runs on all 4 injectors and cylinders... now i am happy i finally got the little B*sterd... a the same time i am stunned at how one sensor that wasn't the cause of the issue caused all this... so if any of you experiance all this try a crank sensor and cam sensor first, you'd be surprised like i am how it fixed all the weird things that happend. for me this took a lot of time after work for the last month or so to figure out. i should have a video of it running soon, maybe.

 

[dsmcrzy]

So you replaced the crank sensor? They are know to develop hairline cracks in the sensor. Look at your old one and see if there are any present. That could have caused the short. It would also mess up the signal from the crank sensor.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

So you replaced the crank sensor? They are know to develop hairline cracks in the sensor. Look at your old one and see if there are any present. That could have caused the short. It would also mess up the signal from the crank sensor.

the sensor i took out of the engine was brand new when i put it in. and i wasn't chasing the problem for a crank sensor originally. my focus and concern was with the cam sensor and i got fed up and tried a crank sensor and it fixed it. i looked at the sensor and there wasn't any physical evidence of cracks or anything.

 

[BlackKnight2013]

new video is up on youtube. another one is on the upload at the moment. so two new vids out today. search for the channel: thecartuner007.

link to one of the videos:

 

[BlackKnight2013]

shake down drive video:

 

[BlackKnight2013]

well it's been some time since i last posted. basic updates is that i have changed from the greddy e-manage ultimate to an AEM fic. i've changed the injectors from 1650cc to 1000cc injectors. i've made changes to the throttle cable layout, ignition box location, turbine housing a/r size from .84 divided to non-divided .65 a/r. refitted the down pipe from 4"collector to 3" pipe to just striaght 3" collector. there's a few other not so worthy notable changes. find out more on the videos and live streams i have done on my youtube channell: thecartuner007. I did manage to figure out the whole running issue of only two cylinder firing, even though the timing belt was on right, the camshafts were not on true zero tdc. so i took care of that with a special camshaft timing setting tool and now it runs on it's own, starts on its own without any help and idles a lot better.