I’ll try to post the link from Amazon.

1cleangsx said:

I’ll try to post the link from Amazon.

https://a.co/d/0cLdbGH3

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Thanks!

I’ll continue to post install pics over the next few days, I’m hoping to have the car running again by the end of the week, and GOD willing finally drive it next saturday

Hey guys so today I just tailored the relay harness, my connectors show up tomorrow, then the pump on Tuesday.i only added ring terminals for the high current wire which will connect to the distribution block and of course the chassis ground for the relay.The yellow 10awg will be pinned to a 2 pin connector for the pump power wire, and the brown wire will be soldered to the factory signal wire harness.It’ll look cleaner once it’s done, and I’m gonna grab that 3d printed raised fuel pump cover from dsm3dcreations which will help a lot, I’ll also have a 2 pin connector for the 2 low level/float wires

Hey guys, quick update, the car is on the GROUND , I had to air up the tires and torque the lugnuts of course, but holy cow she’s finally ready I think , just need to put the hood back on and maybe a few more gallons of e85.I had a Bit of a fiasco last weekend after completing the walbro 535 install, but here’s a quick pic of the pump in the hanger.After wiring up the new plug connectors and such on Saturday I finally activate the pump to check pressure/leaks and all seemed well, until I looked under the car and saw a huge puddle of fuel , I’m like Oh $h!t and shut the car off, the next day after reactivating the pump I traced it to the 6an fitting on the gm flex fuel sensor, the lower fitting, specifically on the hose where it goes into the fitting, not the threads, so last night I pulled it and sure enough the hose wasn’t seated flush in the fitting causing the leak, so I fixed that along with a bolt on the intake I snapped off after trying to tension the throttle cable, I swear at times it seems like this car just doesn’t want to leave the garage , but I fought back last night , anyways after verifying last night that the leak was fixed and setting the throttle cable tension right, I new today all I wanted was a good idle, verifying the new fuel pump relay didn’t get hot and the shift box was functioning and I’d FINALLY be ready to drive this thing, well today the idle went good, relay barely got warm, shift box was functioning properly and NO leaks. As of now I just need to put the hood back on and throw in some e85, can’t believe this 2 year project is finally coming to fruition

Wil you run E85 in this car?

Was there an issue with your shift box Jeremy?

diambo4life said:

Wil you run E85 in this car?

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Yes sir e70 out of the pump

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

Was there an issue with your shift box Jeremy?

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Hey Marty, no issue, I just sent them both in for a check up, One of them needed to be updated, and if you remember my issue of the double rpm reading, that was resolved by changing the PPR value from 2 to 4, now rpm’s/mph match the factory cluster

I am one of those who reads build threads in segments when I have time, so, if my questions have been addressed earlier in this thread, I apologize in advance. What is the micron rating for your fuel filter? I see braided hose in your fuel system and brass fittings. Why? Rubber in braided hose degrades in E85 over time and so does brass especially in an uncoated state. I see you are running FIC 2150cc's. Those injectors are *not* tolerant to any impurities in the fuel. I say this because I have unfortunately learned things the hard (and more expensive) way.

diambo4life said:

I am one of those who reads build threads in segments when I have time, so, if my questions have been addressed earlier in this thread, I apologize in advance. What is the micron rating for your fuel filter? I see braided hose in your fuel system and brass fittings. Why? Rubber in braided hose degrades in E85 over time and so does brass especially in an uncoated state. I see you are running FIC 2150cc's. Those injectors are *not* tolerant to any impurities in the fuel. I say this because I have unfortunately learned things the hard (and more expensive) way.

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My fuel filter is the Weldon post pump filter with the 10 micron steel element which I replaced earlier this year. The braided hose is the vibrant an line that’s compatible with e85, only issue I’ve ever had was just this past weekend the leak I had where it wasn’t seated flush inside the fitting. In regards to the rubber hose on the brass fitting I’ve yet to run into any issues, this car has sat for 2 years and I didn’t notice any issue with the rubber, I’ve also read about the degrading effects from e85 on the rubber over time but how long is that? The rubber wasn’t breaking down within those 2 years? Also my injectors are serviced once a year by fuel injector clinic, in the past 2 different cleanings they’re was never an issue with a single injector knock on wood , but in all honesty, even at the “ modest” power level my car is at, I know it’s a text book high maintenance car, and I always try to stay on top of maintaining the fuel system, the only thing I’ve come across during the 2 year sit was the clear gel clumps that I found in the housing of the fuel filter, that’s a few pages back in this build thread I think, the injectors were just re installed a few months ago, but again in regards to the rubber thing, no signs of degrading whatsoever in the hanger with 2 years sit time, and even in the 6an return line that I just cut and re plumbed the inside of that hose also looked fine, maybe one day I’ll convert everything over to ptfe line and fittings, but this is what I have on the car for now, I do appreciate your input tho.

Reading a little more into it I see your point with the rubber, I’ll make that a 2027 upgrade for sure and switch to ptfe lines/fittings and swap out the rubber in the hanger for the plastic piece that came in the install kit

1cleangsx said:

My fuel filter is the Weldon post pump filter with the 10 micron steel element which I replaced earlier this year. The braided hose is the vibrant an line that’s compatible with e85, only issue I’ve ever had was just this past weekend the leak I had where it wasn’t seated flush inside the fitting. In regards to the rubber hose on the brass fitting I’ve yet to run into any issues, this car has sat for 2 years and I didn’t notice any issue with the rubber, I’ve also read about the degrading effects from e85 on the rubber over time but how long is that? The rubber wasn’t breaking down within those 2 years? Also my injectors are serviced once a year by fuel injector clinic, in the past 2 different cleanings they’re was never an issue with a single injector knock on wood , but in all honesty, even at the “ modest” power level my car is at, I know it’s a text book high maintenance car, and I always try to stay on top of maintaining the fuel system, the only thing I’ve come across during the 2 year sit was the clear gel clumps that I found in the housing of the fuel filter, that’s a few pages back in this build thread I think, the injectors were just re installed a few months ago, but again in regards to the rubber thing, no signs of degrading whatsoever in the hanger with 2 years sit time, and even in the 6an return line that I just cut and re plumbed the inside of that hose also looked fine, maybe one day I’ll convert everything over to ptfe line and fittings, but this is what I have on the car for now, I do appreciate your input tho.

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In my Galant I started having issues after 5 years...in a car that exclusively ran in E. So if you intend to replace again during that time, you will be fine. E degrades it slowly initially and then the rubber gets hard and the wear accelerates and you will find all that crap in your fuel filter element and injectors. Just have a plan to change it over to PTFE by that time. Ptfe is just better. I use it everywhere in my car...fuel lines, oil and transmission lines, air hoses etc.

Well today was the DAY.I don’t know how else to sum up the maiden voyage other than saying there were some highs and lows? Good things and Not so good things , the Good is that the car made it to the car wash today for a much needed wash.

She never died on me and currently still has zero fluid leaks And now on to the Not so good , the car was essentially running like $h!t , insanely sluggish acceleration, like it didn’t want to accelerate or rev. I rechecked the fluid level on the trans dipstick and it’s at least a quart or so overfilled, I’m hoping correcting that will greatly improve the drive experience. I’m also assuming this is a pretty loose converter, I’m also assuming my tune could use improvement maybe with fuel and timing, I haven’t even reviewed a log yet, tomorrow I’m gonna get the car off the ground again and run thru it front to back and make sure everything still looks good. I’m also still learning this shift box. My first trip around the block there screaching noises around 3rd gear I think, I then deactivated the brake switch and enabled adaptive shift control, after that the car shifted good, again, it just felt terribly sluggish, I don’t know, I definitely jumped into the deep end on this one , this is a transmission I rebuilt myself , oh and I heard what sounded like a fan in the rear of the hatch on the way back home , so I don’t know if the diff I bought is about to explode or what

Another thing I completely forgot about but I’ll add in is that for having a welded center diff in this trans I never noticed any binding at all turning into the parking lot/driveway, so that’s cool

You won't notice the welded dif. Mine drove just like a normal car. You will love it.

Well gee you guys, I notice mine. Up to about 180 degrees of steering wheel turn to the left or right, all I notice is a little more drag on the car, like if you are coasting it will slow you down faster. Or if you are trying to push the car by hand you'll notice it. At some point after 180 degrees, it's variable but I think it's usually around 270 degrees, I'll get a noise or a tire skip or a clunk or something. This is at low speeds I'm talking about, like low-speed maneuvering, parking lot, turn arounds, etc. I just have the normal limited slip in the rear and open diff in the front. The center diff was welded at one time but now it's a different center diff with a PPG spool in it. Either way it's locked.
So my rule of thumb for making the car last "forever" is don't turn the steering wheel past 180 degrees unless there is a good reason to do so. Of course if you are on gravel or dirt it is a non-issue.

Good advice by @We're on Boost

So today I drained some trans fluid, after experiencing all the symptoms yesterday of an overfilled transmission and still have the jerky hesitation in a forward gear. I ran the car at idle in the garage initially with too low of fluid, car wouldn’t move in forward or reverse, slowly adding fluid until it began to move, constantly checking the dipstick of course, which by the way is such a PITA on this transmission, the fluid level varies between each side of the dipstick , anyways once it began to move, I was just reversing out of the garage and driving back up the driveway in Low/1st. The car still has that same hesitation as yesterday, I’m now leaning towards possibly a tps issue? I don’t know, I’m essentially just scratching my head at this point, hoping to figure it out one way or another

My trans is slipping.

So today after triple checking my trans fluid level, backing the car in and out of the garage, the car has all the symptoms, delayed engagement, had a bad temperature spike on the way home from the car wash Friday, and most notably today I could clearly it whining when cycling thru PRNDL, no noise in neutral obviously, on the one hand it feels good to be pretty certain of the cars issue, but on the other hand I’m not sure where to look for a pump. I might reach out to Aaron Gregory to see if he rebuilds them, not anytime soon tho I’m pretty broke at the moment

Actually now after reviewing an old thread on here from @SasaniFab, the symptoms I’ve experienced also almost exactly match that of a broken stator in the converter