This should please @Ludachris

I modified my billet hood hinges and my old hood struts to work together

Bought some angle iron and a sheet of metal to do this write up. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-radiator-mount-modification.518340/ I took 2 weeks and posts on other sites to find the best tucked radiator not knowing this existed. Now I can get a full size radiator in the car and puller fans for better cooling. My daughters boyfriend can weld so I bought a welder for the garage. Once this heat lifts, we'll knock it out.

I just bought my first, 1990 Eclipse GSX. Needs some workkkk, but the chassis is pretty clean, complete car with a couple boxes of parts as well. Got any tips for a newbie? Included is the car and a supposed build sheet for the motor.

jdxnc said:

This should please @Ludachris

I modified my billet hood hinges and my old hood struts to work together

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Well done!

Worked on my wiring again today got a lot done, painted the black black again, finishing up the big stuff small things left. The ic7 should be all wired up this weekend about a few more things to get done.

jdxnc said:

This should please @Ludachris

I modified my billet hood hinges and my old hood struts to work together

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Looks great. Is that a carbon hood?

Pro: I finally found and bought the NOS Evo 1-3 door weatherstrip that I've been chasing for 5 years (MB819674) after the one I found in Venezuela got away
Con: it cost $500 because it came with a whole set that I now have 7/8 duplicates of
These old Mitsubishis man, I tell ya...

Canadian_CD9A said:

Pro: I finally found and bought the NOS Evo 1-3 door weatherstrip that I've been chasing for 5 years (MB819674) after the one I found in Venezuela got away
Con: it cost $500 because it came with a whole set that I now have 7/8 duplicates of
These old Mitsubishis man, I tell ya...

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Nice is your car a 1g or 2g

Finally I got a complete set of rear end manual differential BH1 4 bolts to go along with the T-case Plus an extra set of EUMD tail lights and front turn signals just in case something goes wrong God forbid

Ragged1990 said:

I just bought my first, 1990 Eclipse GSX. Needs some workkkk, but the chassis is pretty clean, complete car with a couple boxes of parts as well. Got any tips for a newbie? Included is the car and a supposed build sheet for the motor.

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Congrats and welcome to the forum

Be sure to add your car profile here https://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/ . It helps with diagnosing future technical questions you may have

Dannyrampage1 said:

Nice is your car a 1g or 2g

Finally I got a complete set of rear end manual differential BH1 4 bolts to go along with the T-case Plus an extra set of EUMD tail lights and front turn signals just in case something goes wrong God forbid

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I have an Evo 1, very similar to 2G in many regards, but with some 1G components as well. I couldn’t put together my little heap of NOS parts if I re-started today, so much of it is gone. I understand that some things like weatherstrip/trim is even worse on DSMs, but at least we’re not in MKIV Supra or Skyline territory.

jdxnc said:

This should please @Ludachris

I modified my billet hood hinges and my old hood struts to work together

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Canadian_CD9A said:

I have an Evo 1, very similar to 2G in many regards, but with some 1G components as well. I couldn’t put together my little heap of NOS parts if I re-started today, so much of it is gone. I understand that some things like weatherstrip/trim is even worse on DSMs, but at least we’re not in MKIV Supra or Skyline territory.

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Thanks for your reply

pagosa dsm said:

Looks great. Is that a carbon hood?

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Yes it is.

Well my cars starter tested fine, BUT, since its such a PITA to get to with my strut brace and water/meth nozzle and capped NOS bung that I decided to put a Brand New Starter (lifetime guarantee) on and a New Battery to go along with it, even though it wasn't my issue. This heat wave has kept me from messing with the car but that is supposed to give us a break tomorrow (Sunday) so I am hoping to get that put back together and climb under the dash to inspect my clutch switch bypass jumper.
I didn't turn in my original starter since the parts stores still sell the brushes, solenoid and starter drive. I'll rebuild mine to like new.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

Well my cars starter tested fine, BUT, since its such a PITA to get to with my strut brace and water/meth nozzle and capped NOS bung that I decided to put a Brand New Starter (lifetime guarantee) on and a New Battery to go along with it, even though it wasn't my issue. This heat wave has kept me from messing with the car but that is supposed to give us a break tomorrow (Sunday) so I am hoping to get that put back together and climb under the dash to inspect my clutch switch bypass jumper.
I didn't turn in my original starter since the parts stores still sell the brushes, solenoid and starter drive. I'll rebuild mine to like new.

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Very nice looking piece Nice craftsmanship plus Life time warranty

What’s the “bypass jumper”? Should be able to simply disconnect the switch at the end of the clutch pedal throw to disable it.

Its been SOOO long since I unhooked it, I couldn't remember if I jumped it or just unplugged it. Thanks guys!.
I still have a "break" in the signal Black/Yellow Stripe wire. We have a front coming thru, right now, dropped our temps by 10*, I intend on tackling the issue tomorrow after reinstalling the starter.

Edit: @19Eclipse90 and @steve can either of you verify if the signal wire connector on this spare starter I found is a factory connector? If it is, it is another connection I need to inspect. Thanks!
Marty

That one is original for an automatic, yes.

The original manual harness has a 4-pin square connector for those same two wires and the two wires for the reverse light sensor.

Thank you Brian!

Woot.

Got my exhaust hung today along with the crossmembers/gusset. She’s all buttoned up underneath now

Nice! Looks like it's time to put a crossmember gusset on that garage door.

I am at a delima. I am not sure the NEW starter I bought, for a 1990 Talon TSI, is a manual transmission starter. I know they didn't make a AWD Talon Auto in 1990, however, the # on my starter box, Duralast DLG5168, seems to come back as a auto starter if I search the part #. I don't want to do this twice, so can anyone tell me how to distinguish an 5 speed starter from an auto starter?
Thanks!

From what I understand Marty is the 1g turbo starters are interchangeable between auto and manual, that’s according to w4a33.com, I currently have my original 90 5 spd starter installed in my auto, currently about 2-3 weeks out from its first start

Thanks Jeremy. I have to move or remove so many things that I don't want to do it again. You give me "hope"
Any other input is appreciated.
Marty

1cleangsx said:

From what I understand Marty is the 1g turbo starters are interchangeable between auto and manual, that’s according to w4a33.com, I currently have my original 90 5 spd starter installed in my auto, currently about 2-3 weeks out from its first start

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According to ASA there are a bunch of different part numbers of the years but after the superseded lists you wind up with two, MD172860 for the manual trans and MD172861 for the automatics. Other sites like STM list the MD172860 as fitting both the 1G types.

And my somewhat swiss cheesed memory says there has always been a difference between the two that causes engagement issues if you use the wrong one. I can't find original Mitsubishi specs but Bosch shows a few differences in angle and width of the pinion.

MD172860


MD172861


Not sure at this point but it seems like the auto version has three ridges on the nose and the manual version is solid.