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Your most recent welding pics

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Ok, dont poke too much fun...but here are my most recent welds with the type of welder I use.


Welder: Campbell Hausfeld 115v flux core welder. 30-85 amp ALL ELECTRIC
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http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-u...2012ED120MotorsportsWeldingSchoolSchedule.pdf

Too little heat, too much wire speed, you need to start the puddle and then start dragging it, if you never start the puddle it will blob like this as well.
 
NIce welding guys!!

I have been thinking about taking classes for this and other fabrication but I do not know where to start.

Also, what kind of careers can this lead into if anyone knows and would they be good paying jobs?? Any input is appreciated !

Check out your local tech school. They most likely have a welding course you can take. If you want to do it as a career, do the full course and get certified. It will help you when looking for a job.

As far as how much you will make, that depends on the type of welding you plan on doing. Were I work, our welders start out at ~$20.00 per hour. They almost all do heavy plate welding, which is a skill that is hard to come by these days. We primarily only work with A36 mild steel, and AR400.

EDIT: Sorry, I just realized I responded to an old question.:banghead:
 
This is some of most recent welds with my Lincoln 110v mig $100 yard sale find welder. It doesn't have a gas set up so you get alot of spatter but with some practice you can get ok functional welds but nothing like what some of you guys are getting as results. I'm still happy to have it and feel like I stole it! It still had the first roll of wire left in it with hardly any used.
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I'm no pro by far. :D
 
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Not really automotive related. Kinda I guess since it's for a drive way. Anyway, had a customer that wanted an automatic driveway gate and the "fence" that was in place when he bought the house was made out of 4'x8' 16gauge sheet metal. He of course wanted it to match. The framing was done out a 2x2 11 gauge top rail and up rights and a 2x4 11 gauge bottom rail. Then we attached some of the sheet metal. We started calling it the man gate. I wished I would have gotten more pictures, but it was hot out and I was ready to go.

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Not really automotive related. Kinda I guess since it's for a drive way. Anyway, had a customer that wanted an automatic driveway gate and the "fence" that was in place when he bought the house was made out of 4'x8' 16gauge sheet metal. He of course wanted it to match. The framing was done out a 2x2 11 gauge top rail and up rights and a 2x4 11 gauge bottom rail. Then we attached some of the sheet metal. We started calling it the man gate. I wished I would have gotten more pictures, but it was hot out and I was ready to go.

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I'd like to see a "movie" gate crash on that!
 
Evo 6.5 intake pipe

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Too little heat, too much wire speed, you need to start the puddle and then start dragging it, if you never start the puddle it will blob like this as well.



Welding heat is at maximum without blowing the breaker. And speed was taken all the way down to 2 LOL. The problem is, I cant even get it to blob up. Its highly irritating
 
Main plates welded to the floor for a cage im doing in an integra.
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Main tubes to plates.
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Main hoop and halo
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Welding heat is at maximum without blowing the breaker. And speed was taken all the way down to 2 LOL. The problem is, I cant even get it to blob up. Its highly irritating

I'd step up to a better quality welder. I used to have a Campbell Hausfeld mig before I bought my Lincoln mig. While the Campbell did an OK job, it pales in comparison to the Lincoln. I can make Tig looking welds with flux core with the Lincoln. Having the right equipment for the job is also very helpful, it would be like trying to play a round of golf with a set of clubs that are too short or long, you can imagine the frustration! It might be wise to start saving for a better rig. I would also look into the electrical issue as well, as a 110v Mig shouldn't be blowing breakers. Good Luck!
 
Im not sure why it blows the breakers....but yes I do need a better welder. IT was my dads choice on the welder. If it was me, I would have gone broke, I dont like having tools that are not good quality.

Im trying to get into Lincoln Electric welding school, after the graduation of the class you get a TIG welder XD

I just wanted some practice before going up there.


And +1 on playing golf with short clubs...mine are damn near 6" too short.....frustrating to say the least.....
 
WTF
How the hell do you manage to play golf with clubs that are 6 inches short?! You have to have a Happy Gilmore approach for that big of a stroke gap. ROFL

Definitely need a good rig... Even the older Lincoln and Miller MIGs blow away any of the cheaper welders I have tried recently. I am also looking to buy a good welder. I had a Lincoln 180 with gas shielding for a month that a friend lent to me, and I could hardly put it down. It was so much nicer than gas welding and so damn clean that I welded everything I could think of that I might want to weld that I had on hand. It was such a pleasure to have it just spark, arc, and weld at the pull of the trigger and have it come out looking so nice that I am saving up for a Miller 180 with gas now. For some reason, the Miller equivalent to the Lincoln 180 just seemed to work better for me. Not a huge difference, but I was more comfortable with how the Miller welded.

TurboKing, it looks like you reinforced the corners on the hoop and halo in anticipation of a Peterbuilt falling out of the sky onto the top of that car. I like it. :thumb:
 
Thats something i do on all my cages, its not required on any cage short of sfi spec but for the small amount of weight it adds the added strength is worth it. And they look kinda cool.

As far as looking at picking up a nice mig unit, i purchased the eastwood 175 mig with the spool gun and absolutley love it. This is the second cage i have done with it with no issues. And it only set me back about $580 with shipping, bought a 55cflittle tank from htp for about $100, and i was off and running. In fact im so pleased with their mig welder im probably going to pick up their tig welder here in the next couple of weeks.
 
If you're doing cages like that, someone is going to ask to have it TIG'd before long. I have seen it done both ways, and honestly, if you're good with a MIG and get the settings right, I can't really see how the TIG weld could be much better. I understand the tungstun filler is harder, but a full penetration weld is a full penetration weld, right? I do love the way TIG comes out looking with aluminum though.
 
If you're doing cages like that, someone is going to ask to have it TIG'd before long. I have seen it done both ways, and honestly, if you're good with a MIG and get the settings right, I can't really see how the TIG weld could be much better. I understand the tungstun filler is harder, but a full penetration weld is a full penetration weld, right? I do love the way TIG comes out looking with aluminum though.

Really TIG is better because of less heat affected area around the weld which is the weakest area, mig has the issue of starting cold then burning in hotter as you go because there's no control of amperage, so as heat builds and the "HAZ" (heat affected zone) grows your cage is weaker and weaker.

NHRA rules state the ONLY place a cage can be MIG welded (or done other than with a TIG) is at the paltes that attach to the body, this is because not only is the fit usually not perfect enough for good tig welds, but because it's the bars in the cage they don't want to seperate and become something that goes through your torso or head, if the cage is solid and comes loose from the unibody in a spot you still are in a solid "cage" toprotect you instead of breaking around you and possibly hurting you more

NOw some tracks don't look unless you're in the realm of needing A FIRE SUIT OR areas like that, but try and pass tech on a fast car with a MIG'ed cage and you'll getsent home at a big track with smart tech insopectors.

the weird part, SCCA road racing at least in the past 5-8 years was still allowing there to be MIG welds on cruicial areas that i think would be more important to TIG than MIG compared to drag racing.. in drag you go straight you slow down it's done, in road racing you enter a turn at 100 mph and something goes wrong it's bad, there's just so many more chances for a wreck in road racing that i cna't see how they allow some of the cages i've seen to be ran get certified (SCCA comes out and certs your cage before you ever go to the track most times, our local rep visits shops all the time signing off and inspecting cars for safety gear)

But anyway...mig is OK, TIG is awesome, Tig is much more controlled with heat and puddle flow control and depth of penetration being consistant where a mig just isn't

Welding heat is at maximum without blowing the breaker. And speed was taken all the way down to 2 LOL. The problem is, I cant even get it to blob up. Its highly irritating

checkthe breaker AMP rating, it's probably only like a 15-20 amp service, you can replace it with one easily from the hardware store rated at 30 amps (think that's 110volt max) or if it's a 220 welder you'll need to go buy a 50 amp breaker which is what stoves run so they are easy to find about 15 bucks and changing them is easy, just cut the main breaker off (top of box) use flashlight to replace the one while there no power, put cover back on, turn main back on and go, :D I have had to run services in every house i've lived in over the last 14 years (3 of them) to ensure i can weld with out issue and my compressoir wont kick them off too

breakers are 15-25 bucks tops depending on the box you have at home...

If you have a variable boltage welder (like the inverter millers like i've got) that take 110/220 or 480 3 phase, then you can really only go to 150amps on 110, but need that 30 amp breaker and it will still pop on extended use,, best bet is even add a breaker for YOUR own use at home, just get some cheap ROMEX (what's ran inside walls) and run it through wall, cieling what ever to where you need it and mount a box for your plug in
 
Glen, you are right about the tig being better than mig for a cage due to the heat affected zone being much smaller.

As far as the nhra rules go, you are actually allowed to mig mild steel cages, the only time it MUST be tig welded is if it chromoly. A mild steel cage can get you all the way to an 8.50 pass in 10the point or greater, if i remember correctly the sfi spec 25.5 cage is also allowed to be mild steel and migged, which will get you to 7.50.
 
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I love showin people up when they say i cant weld at work
 
Built all this for a friends rotated gt35r setup. (up pipe, downpipe, all intercooler piping)
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thats a sweet setup IMO, being a subbi tech i see all sorts of pipping troubles, thumbs up to you
 
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