The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G Wont turn over.. Help!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tmota503

15+ Year Contributor
185
4
Sep 21, 2010
hillsboro, Oregon
Hey wats up forum, so im still in my swap to 4g63 n/a to 4g63t .

I got it to crank but it wont turn over, I installed a walbro 255.
Do I have to rewire it in order to work properly? Its getting fuel though.

currently im using the old spark plug wires. They have some carbon build up but worked fine in previous car. Would this cause it not to crank?

Alternator worked fine as well.

Other things I should check?



Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
 
Ok, first off. Cranking is when you turn the engine over with the starter . Turning over is when you do it with a wrench or something. You mean you can't get it to start?
What did you do with the ECU?
 
Im using the ecu out of the donor car. My bad. Yes I meant it wont start. I can get a mechanic to come and have it runnin for 100, but then again what if its something simple then I can just save money and upgrade turbo or whatever.

I'm using the donor cars motor, transmission, harness and ecu.


Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
 
If it smells like fuel when cranking,the fuel pump isn't faulty. You might want to check the coils if they are still good. Not that all 4 injectors could be clogged, but did you check this as well?
 
I havent looked into the ecu, I was hoping to do a compresion test just dont know how.

Would a ecu just go out like nothing?

They can and do, which is why I asked does the CEL turn on for five seconds when you first turn on the ignition?

There is a lot involved in the swap, including adding the wiring for the turbo engine injector resistor pack. Have you done that?

A compression test is simple, remove all the spark plugs, remove the MPI fuse, install the compression tester in a cylinder, open the throttle and crank the engine for a second or two and write down the values. Repeat for all the rest of the cylinders.
 
Oh I see, ill check tommorow. I have the car at my cousins. Live in a town house that doesnt allow even a oil change. :/
I used the turbos engine harness too. Do I still need the extra wire?

What tool is that you use for the compresion?

Also I went from 7 bolt to 6 bolt. does cam angle sensor have to do anything?

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
 
The turbo wiring harness should have included the silver injector resistor box that bolts to the firewall. If you don't have it your injectors won't work.

Typical compression tester. New they can be found for about $30-$40
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


There is no major difference in the CAS between 1G 6 bolt and 7 bolt engines.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
The turbo wiring harness should have included the silver injector resistor box that bolts to the firewall. If you don't have it your injectors won't work.

Typical compression tester. New they can be found for about $30-$40
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


There is no major difference in the CAS between 1G 6 bolt and 7 bolt engines.

Yeah I have the injector pack connected and screwed on to the firewall.


Alright ill go check it out at a store tommorrow. Maybe buy some spark plug wires while im at it.

Anything else I should check?

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Anything else I should check?

Before you go spend any money, turn the ignition on and verify that the CEL turns on for about five seconds and then turns off. That's the first step. If the ECU isn't running then nothing else interesting is going to happen.
 
Assuming you don't have a dead battery, the power windows need the alternator fuse (80A), fusible link 5 (30A), Ignition fuse (30A) and Multipurpose fuse 3 (10A) to work.

The ECU needs the MPI fuse (20A) and Ignition fuse (30A) to work.

Do your automatic seat belts work?
Does the dome lights work?
Does windshield wipers work?
Does the blower motor work?
Does the starter crank?

Each of these checks out parts of the various circuits and fuses.
 
Assuming you don't have a dead battery, the power windows need the alternator fuse (80A), fusible link 5 (30A), Ignition fuse (30A) and Multipurpose fuse 3 (10A) to work.

The ECU needs the MPI fuse (20A) and Ignition fuse (30A) to work.

Do your automatic seat belts work?
Does the dome lights work?
Does windshield wipers work?
Does the blower motor work?
Does the starter crank?

Each of these checks out parts of the various circuits and fuses.

Ahh I see, seat belts work, wipers work and blower motor works. It cranks yoo. I have a new napa battery.
Did take off the black tube box under the battery tray. Fuel somethin I forgot.



Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
 
I've read alot about bad CAS causing alot of no start problems but it seems swaping into a NT car is a pain in the ass so it could be anything, I would do everything steve says because he seems to know whats up.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top