2G Won't start after Fuel pressure regulator Diaphragm replaced

[Sam's GSX]

Over 2 months ago, I was sitting in the car (1997 Eclipse GSX) idling and it randomly died. I saw a fuel leak at the AFPR and thought the hose had given out, but when I took apart the regulator, the diaphragm had torn. I have replaced the diaphragm but the car still won't start. It acts like it wants to start for a moment, then just continues cranking.

I went to boot up my old tuning laptop but it may be retired, I couldn't get it on and I haven't used DSMlink in a few years. I downloaded it on this work laptop and took a few cranking logs (attached) if you would like me to adjust or add and graphs, let me know, and I will take new logs.

Let me know if you have any advise or help, It would be greatly appreciated. I'm slightly stumped on this one for the time being.

(let me know if the logs didn't post correctly)

Thank you.

 

[DSMPT]

When the engine is at TDC you test cylinder 1 & 4. Rotate the engine 180 degrees so #2 and #3 are at TDC and test.

Sorry totally no offense, just a little correction. Usually you can not do a leakdown test #1/#4 and #2/#3 in the same time if you have the cams and the timing belt installed. You can do only one cylinder at the time, only the cylinder in the end of compression stroke. Our engine's firing order is 1-3-4-2, so when the cam dowels are at 12 o'clock we can test only cylinder #1. #4 is in the end of exhaust stroke which means it's in overlap event, usually the valves are open at TDC.

@Sam's GSX This is how to do a leakdown test. If you are not sure if you did the test correctly, you should do this to see if all cylinders would have the same or similar result. If you would remove the exhaust manifold and intake manifold (or throttle body), it would be much easier to hear the air sound that come through the valves.

Or perhaps you should run a leakdown test with the cams removed. In this way, you don't need to worry about the cam position since all valves are supposed to be fully closed. It may be easier to distinguish and narrow down the issue.

Rotate the crank to set the cam dowels at 12 o'clock, test cylinder #1.
Rotate the crank 180 degree to set the cam dowels at 3 o'clock, test cylinder #3.
Rotate the crank 180 degree to set the cam dowels at 6 o'clock, test cylinder #4.
Rotate the crank 180 degree to set the cam dowels at 9 o'clock, test cylinder #2.

 

[steve]

I did a compression test, obviously the engine is cold, but the test still did not go well.
My first numbers were this.

1. 60
2. 45.
3. 20
3. 0

I then tested it with the dip stick out and felt for air coming out of the tube, and there was air every time regardless of which cylinder I was testing.

1. 5
2. 45
3. 20
4. 0

As a side note, on cylinder 3, it makes an air leak noise every time it rotates, I couldn't find specifically where.

Okay, i have just completed the leak down test and compression test. I understand the engine is cold, and it is supposed to be warm for both of these tests, but this was the concerning test, #1 105psi, #2 125psi #3 25psi and #150 psi. Cylinder 3 tested extremely bad, even making a hissing noise with each rotation (in the video)

Good news most of the cylinders got better but it looks like the head will need to come off to investigate more. Hopefully it's just a valve or two.

 

[Sam's GSX]

Sorry totally no offense, just a little correction. Usually you can not do a leakdown test #1/#4 and #2/#3 in the same time if you have the cams and the timing belt installed. You can do only one cylinder at the time, only the cylinder in the end of compression stroke. Our engine's firing order is 1-3-4-2, so when the cam dowels are at 12 o'clock we can test only cylinder #1. #4 is in the end of exhaust stroke which means it's in overlap event, usually the valves are open at TDC.

Oh my gosh....i didn't even think of that. The valves were open for letting out the exhaust, it's only sealed at TDC every other rotation.

Thank you so much.

Good news most of the cylinders got better but it looks like the head will need to come off to investigate more. Hopefully it's just a valve or two.

I agree.

Thank you sir.
I'll probably do a proper leakdown test, like the other guy suggested, then start on the head removal process.

Thank you for all your help this far, I always appreciate you steve.

 

[pauleyman]

I agree.

Thank you sir.
Ill probably do a proper leakdown test, like the other guy suggested, then start on the head removal process.

Thank you for all your help this far, i always appreciate you steve.

I'd run the leakdown for sure before teardown. Especially on #3.

 

[babyviper]

I drove one of my DSM's for over 10k miles with with bent valves from a bad timing belt job. A bent valve in one or two cylinders won't cause no start. Not saying that it's not worth looking into, but I highly doubt that is not the reason it's not starting.

 

[Sam's GSX]

I drove one of my DSM's for over 10k miles with with bent valves from a bad timing belt job. A bent valve in one or two cylinders won't cause no start. Not saying that it's not worth looking into, but I highly doubt that is not the reason it's not starting.

I agree.
The main reason I have not wanted to do a teardown is because of how the car stopped running. It was just idling, and all of the sudden the engine stopped. I had a fuel leak that popped up, the AFPRs diaphragm tore.

So i have been trying to explore other reasons that could cause a no start.
Anything that running extremely lean or basically without fuel could cause. I checked injector tic, and spark as well.
Also, fuel pressure was good.