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Wont run when hot w/belt squeal

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viridionplague

15+ Year Contributor
97
0
May 18, 2006
Fridley, Minnesota
this is on a 1ga. fiav delete but still using the isc. all isc coils tested at 37 ohms. there are also readings between 1-6 and 3-4 on the isc but i do not know if that is normal.

so ive been having this issue that once the car is up to full temp it likes to die and not start back up. Usually when this happens there is some pretty bad belt squeal as well. It ends up taking a lot of cranking to get it to fire, and once it does it just tanks and stalls out again.

Cold starts can be slightly difficult but usually are not a problem and do not have any squealing at this point.

im pretty stumped as to why this would happen or why the belt squeal would seem to line up with the no starts.

ideas and suggestions are welcome.
 
Does it start if you hold the gas pedal down? I would look into the belt issue, you could just have a loose belt, or you could have an accessory locking up and causing a drag on the engine.
 
So what does a squealing accessory belt have to do with the timing belt? The ps belt on my suv has been squealing on and off for the past few months. Does that mean that my engine is going to blow up, no i don't think it does.
 
Belt squeal could be numerous things but I'd recommend checking the tension as well as if you got any fluids on them. As for the idle issues after it's warm. One thing I know of that leads to this is a bad crankshaft position sensor. I'd have it scanned first to be sure but that's what I would bet on since you have no problem with cold starts.
 
luckily ive covered most of the hot start issues, egr is blocked, throttle body was just rebuilt with fresh seals and cleaned, plugs and wires are good.

the belts are also in good condition, with good tension.

the biggest problem with hot starts is that it fires up, goes to 1500 rpm, then just drops like there is a drag on the motor.

been reading up that the harmonic balancer can start failing and the rubber can start well... rubbing. heat would cause it to get worse and the rubbing would cause the resistance. taking it out and inspecting it today.
 
Have you checked the coolant temp sensor near the thermostat housing? Maybe a bad sensor, or just a loose wire. The wire on the connector likes to become brittle and break over time.
 
harmonic dampener looked fine enough, some rubbing on the timing cover but thats about it. put some extra tension on the alternator belt and the squealing went away thankfully.

ive got it to where it starts consistently but its still wierd. i have to crank it a few times, stop, then crank again and it fires every time.

I ended up opening the biss a good bit to achieve this. if im idling and bring the rpm up to 2000 and let of the gas it will try to catch the rpm at idle speed but usually dies. if i go up to 3000 or better it will catch itself and idle normally.

i have also tried setting idle using the official method, however once this is done i end up with the hot start issue again. so it seems there is some kind of issue with air regulation.

i am running an n/a rebuilt throttle body with turbo seals. isc is still in place and tested good. fiav is blocked off. getting around 16-18 in/g vacuum at idle, ecmlink v3
 
Could be the fuel pump. It pumps enough to keep the engine going, yet fuel pressure is low enough to prevent it from starting after the pump heats up. When you let it crank few times it builds up pressure for long enough to start when you turn the key again.
 
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