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Wiring nightmare please help!

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screamthepoetry

Probationary Member
5
0
May 31, 2013
north vernon, Indiana
alright so i just purchased a 95 eagle talon tsi. the person who owned it before me installed a push button start for absolutely no reason. and screwed something up. The car has a horrible Parasitic Drain and if u leave the car off for more then 2-3 minutes after getting it started the battery is already dead. i am able to jump start it and keep it going but once its off, its off. sometimes it wont even start a second after its been turned off unless i disconnect the negative battery terminal and reconnect it. engine seems to run good when its going but i cant seem to figure out how to pull out the push button start in order to start the car normally with a key. it doesnt start with the key now at all, i mean i here the starter click when i turn it like the solenoid is trying but no go. also there are several little wires coming from the fuse box to the positive terminal to the battery some of which have been spliced into already existing wires. tracing the wires back they are all white, 2 go to the alternator fuse, and 2 more go to the strip with the ignition fuse. has anyone had any experience with these cheaply done push buttons and know what i can take out to get rid of it without killing the ignition system itself. im afraid if i climb under the car and pull the line from the starter to the switch then the car wont start at all cause somewhere else is the other end into the ignition because its not directly connected to the battery. thanks
 
thanks yeah my gf has a 97 gst and we have service manuals so i guess i will just trace all the wires from the button and hopefully just unhooking it and recrimping wires will fix the job
 
What's your voltage at idle.

How olds' the battery.

No matter what amount of drain, it's not going to kill the battery within a minute unless the battery is really old and doesn't take a charge. There isn't a common aftermarket device out there that draws that much to kill a battery within a couple minutes. Hell, the stock battery cables would catch fire before a direct short to ground drained the battery that bad. OR MAYBE there's a munchkin hiding, shorting the terminals together with a bigass wrench, and I'm terribly mistaken. It's happened before.

Can you get it to start by cycling the key? As in try to start it, hit it again, hit it, hit it etc.
 
batterys brand new. ok so today i went out traced down the wires from the back of the push button and one was wired directly to the battery, i thought the other would be attached to the starter solenoid but it wasnt, it was wired in with a yellow and black wire going into a black two hole clip which led down under the car and im pretty sure all those wires were traced back to the starter solenoid on the back of the engine underneath the intake manifold, so i undid all the wiring to the push button, went to start the car and nothing, all the electricals come on but theres just a little thud sound and nothing else.. so then i wired the end that was spliced into the yellow and black wires and wired it directly to the positive end on the starter solenoid and the other end back to the battery.. still nothing, the car started just fine the other day so i know its not the starter itself. ignition switch maybe??

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this is where the wire was attached originally
 

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First test your ignition switch Start position to make sure it works (when it no longer works some people just put in a button to save the very high cost of a new switch). Do this by measuring voltage on the ignition switch's larger black-red wire - should be +12v only when in Start position. Repeat many times to make sure it's not intermittent.

If that works ok, check wire on the starters solenoid (factory uses black-yellow on a slip on connector). Go to the starter relay behind the radio and verify the black-yellow is there (or the other end of the same color one on the starter solenoid if he changed it). Now leave starter relay permanently disconnected and just connect a wire from that black-yellow to the ignition switch's black-red (the factory ignition switch's black-red should also be at the starter relay).
 
well its not the starter. the starter works fine. got the car started with the push button but there is that parasitic drain, taking a multimeter to the fuse box the ignition fuse is the one drawing a bunch of power when its off. without the push button when on accessory the door open light comes on but the radio does not which i heard will happen if ## ignition switch is bad.. so just gonna buy a $30 ignition switch friday and change it. will keep you all updated. thanks for all of your help so far :)
 
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