White Smoke / Car Is Smoking White [Merged 7-9]

[Apeximprt2nr]

Alright guys, well I just finished my 14B install in my 95 GSX. All is well besides some minor oil leaks on the return line and the SS feed line at the filter housing. There was also a VERY minor coolant leak from the front banjo bolt on the turbo. I tightened it a tad and I think i went away. Now the turbo is spooling really late because I think there may be a leak before the turbo.
Now on to the problems.

1. The turbo does not smoke at all besides at WOT sometimes it blows out whiteish grey smoke. I'm trying to think of where it could be burning coolant. It never did this before the turbo install.

2. There was some white smoke the past 2 days at the manifold. I'm thinking its the shitload of PB Blaster that I sprayed all over the car but I'm not sure.

3. There's a smell coming from my engine that I can smell if I pop my hood and it becomes more noticeable when I'm driving and really get on it. It smells like burning plastic sort of, with a mix of burning rubber. The lower heat shield is not on the car because it's a pain to get on and I haven't put it back on because I haven't had time. Nothing is touching anything hot so I 'm confused...The only possible thing is maybe I pout on a new 4 ply exhaust mani. gasket as well as antiseize on most of the bolts and the turbo-mani. bolts.

Any help? Thanks.

 

[Spanky_DSM]

have you tried pressurizing your cooling system and see how that went?

Dont flame one me, im just trying to help.

 

[98mitsubishigst]

idk i can't really smell the difference in the exhaust. My buddy says its sweet i don't think so..

But yeah both rad hoses are hot.

But yeah it aint overheating but still annoying i have huge clouds of white smoke hahah

 

[007jimmy]

ill admit i screwed up but it was more lack of sleep and confusing terminaligy and not reading enough. i seen copper color and assumed he was using a single layer copper headgasket for some reason and thats why i was saying it wouldnt seal for crap. and what i was calling a mls gasket is actually a composite gasket. either way air tools arent good for cleaning the mating surfaces and ill still put money on them scratches..

 

[Tyeler18]

have you tried pressurizing your cooling system and see how that went?

Dont flame one me, im just trying to help.

This is what I'd recommend. Aside from getting compression test results, a cooling system test is in order. You can rent the testers at any autoparts store. I believe the factory radiator cap is 14psi, so test the system to 14psi with the tester, it should hold that for a minimum of 30 minutes (most cars much much longer). Look for leaks while pressurizing.

 

[undefined0000]

It looks like condensation. I agree with pressurizing the cooling system.

 

[98mitsubishigst]

It looks like condensation. I agree with pressurizing the cooling system.

Thats what my other mechanic friend said haha..
I could be just entirely too stressed and honestly over reacting..

It was 28 degrees outside when i started the car today and drove it.. =/

Hmmmmmmmmm.

And there was a lot of oil and coolant in the walls of the piston and prob in the exhaust ..

I read it could take quite a while to get all the stuff to burn out of the exhaust ... And out of the cylinders and stuff..

Maybe i should just run the car and drive it a little and see if it goes away if my compression test results are good?

 

[undefined0000]

There is just so much stuff not lining up here!

Just drive it till something actually does go wrong

The coolant should burn off pretty quickly, since its basically water.

When it first started getting cold, and my car wasn't started for a day or two, started it up and I had like 2x the smoke in your vid. I was like then , drove it for a while and it went away. Just condensation

Best test at this point would be pressurizing the cooling system. If you can make it to autozone and back without overheating, go for it.

 

[Tyeler18]

I'd take it out and about and make sure you get it good and hot. After you do a compression test for sure though. If you are still getting your shitty compression in the one cylinder then you have other problems.

 

[joeyvtec]

i agree with the coolant pressure test and maybe a cylinder leakdown test while your at it.

 

[BogusSVO]

A couple things, First is I can not see the surface finish well on the head, it looks dull and not shiny, I would have to guess a belt surface on that,

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

Now for the block surface, it was rol locked.. not good, they have a bad habit of rolling the edges around the water port and dose not allow a good seal.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...-deck-4g63-cast-iron-block.html#post152790451

I have some pics posted in a thread of decking a rol loc cleaned HG surface, you can see how it waves the surface. I just can not find the thread at this time.

Also I can see light imprints in the block where the fire ring of the HG has dug in.

Yes when you checked the block for warp, I would have to guess you used a common 1/2 wide feeler gauge, this can bridge some low spots.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

If the car is still together why don't you just do a block test and see if there are any hydrocarbons in the coolant.

If you take it back apart and you don't have proper tools to check for warpage try guide coat and a sanding bar with 2000 grit. That'll show low spots. Also you can use a straight edge and a light. If a surface is flat that shouldn't be any light seen under it.

Im also in agreement with bogus.

 

[jconcepcion4g63]

See this is why i hate using this site sometimes.. All this mis-information is making my head explode. Seriously i am trying to figure out what is going wrong with my car and people are throwing me into different directions..



WHAT ARE THE POSSIBILITIES.. and if you add your .02 you better not be uneducated and making $hit up, it's annoying.

I agree completely this site needs more moderating and people to read the rules. Answer the question , link to the answer or move on instead of asking to OP a million more questions and a million "i think" answers.

My .02 - your burning some kind of fluid and your coolant is boiling, so 2n2 together leads me to believe your burning fluid is coolant. Verify with a coolant system pressure test. That will tell you for sure if there is a leak in the system.

Now if a leak in the system is verified it more than likely is leaking into the combustion chamber/ cylinder since it is smoking out the exhaust. Now there is only a few things that will leak coolant into the combustion chamber/cylinder - head gasket or cracked or warped head or block. To verify that do a cylinder leak down test. This will pin point where about the leak in your engine is located. Watch for bubbling coolant while you do the leak down test also.



edit - if your compression readings are 175 175 175 60 there is a serious problem in that 60 cylinder the block or head is warped or cracked around there or unclean surface causing the head gasket to not seat properly.

another edit sorry - it is unlikely since your coolant is bubbling like that but if you do have a liquid cooled turbo that could leak into the exhaust. Again tho unlikely that since your bubbling but would not rule it out quit yet.

 

[Timechg]

^- The compression test results were for a previous head before he put a new one on. OP hasn't given new compression numbers.

Have you allowed all of the air bubbles to leave your cooling system? (i.e. letting the car idle with the radiator cap off).

Is your car running lean at all? My car was overheating because of a lean condition, after I changed the fuel pump it was running much cooler than before (not saying this is your case, but if you have a way to monitor air fuel mixture that would be nice).

Have you double checked ignition timing? This could cause your motor to overheat if you aren't igniting at the right time.

 

[JusMX141]

it is unlikely since your coolant is bubbling like that but if you do have a liquid cooled turbo that could leak into the exhaust.

I would love to hear your theory as to how this would happen.



Nick- if the head's been replaced and the problem still persists, it's pretty safe to rule out the head. Check the turbo for shaft play (though this wouldn't explain overheating); otherwise it sounds like someone overheated the engine previously which may have cracked the block and/or damaged the rings.

 

[98mitsubishigst]

I would love to hear your theory as to how this would happen.



Nick- if the head's been replaced and the problem still persists, it's pretty safe to rule out the head. Check the turbo for shaft play (though this wouldn't explain overheating); otherwise it sounds like someone overheated the engine previously which may have cracked the block and/or damaged the rings.

People keep saying how the machine shop ruined this brand new head. THE HEAD WAS DONE RIGHT. like i know you guys throw out stuff that might happen, but lets rule some things out here..

I'm leaning towards the block being cracked as well. =/ but idk I'm honestly just done with this car. i think i am ether better off selling the car for $1500 for someone else to dump money into, or Waiting till summer and putting a new short block in with this head and stuff on..

 

[BogusSVO]

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Continued from the last time..

7. Replaced head with a fully machined head new valves, springs, rockers, cams, lifters , and arp head studs

WTF can be going on guys.. =/

Is this a pic of "New fully machined head" you just installed?

If so, you do not have a fully machined head, or new valves.

Look at the deposits on the that are built up on the valves. Also not the crud around thd and in the EGR port. This head has not been apart and fully cleaned.

Looks like at most it got washed and surfaced.

Have you even looked or read the links I posted for you on
belt surfacing
How to have your head surfaced
block surfacing

I also asked you to post a better pic of the head surface.

You claim the head was done right, how many cylinder heads have you had done?

Read this, this is a step by step rebuild of a head.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/420045-how-have-4g63-head-rebuilt.html

 

[98mitsubishigst]

I did a compression test tonight..

Mind you, that it is 27 degrees in Pittsburgh tonight,
The battery was not charged, i did this with my daily driver alero with jump cables jumping the eclipse..
So the starter wasn't cranking as fast.

Also, i haven't started or ran the car in two days.

I got for a cold test;

150 - 125 - 125 - 150

As you can see, A FROZEN cold motor had A HELL ov a lot better compression in the cylinder that was at 60 with the last head.

We then had the car run for 5 minutes, and made it almost to the half way little maybe a pinch off but the car was to loud at 10pm i turned off.

It got 170 - 150 - 150 - 170

AFTER we did that, we decided to do a oil test, we put some oil in each cylinder and got

200 - 180 - 180 - 200

Now before all you start saying it is so low, you have to relieze that is it below freezing out during cold compression and the car has not ran. And the compression might not be as accurate as it would be on a warmer day, complete charged battery, and my motor being ran for 20 minutes in which i would like it too.

Also; This indicates that the compression is now fixed.. The last heads compression was 175 - 175 - 175 - 60 ..

Now, what are your inputs.

ONE MORE SIDE NOTE; The car had great oil pressure, and also i have NO IDEA how many miles are on the short block..

I would love to hear your theory as to how this would happen.



Nick- if the head's been replaced and the problem still persists, it's pretty safe to rule out the head. Check the turbo for shaft play (though this wouldn't explain overheating); otherwise it sounds like someone overheated the engine previously which may have cracked the block and/or damaged the rings.

Justin, Even with the first motor i put in, it smoked BUT NEVER heated about middle. Ever, since I've owned it. And even with the new head and everything it aint heating up

 

[JusMX141]

Have you tried renting a cooling system pressure tester from a parts store and see what the results are? You can pressurize the system overnight and see what happens, much like doing a boost leak test for your cooling system.

A couple things to consider:

- If the block is cracked, you'd probably be getting coolant in the oil.
- If the rings or ring lands are cracked from previous severe overheating, it would probably result in very inconsistent compression test results between warm and cold.


I've had some issues myself recently when Christi's 1G non-turbo began pushing coolant into the recovery tank and overheating- a clear sign of a failed head gasket. When I built that engine 5 years and almost 50K miles ago when my buddy Jeff owned it, I know he just bought an eBay gasket set so really it's been on borrowed time ever since.

On Thanksgiving I decided as a last-ditch effort I'd pull the valve cover and re-torque all the head bolts to a higher value, around 100 lb/ft. Ended up that all of the bolts with the exception of the two nearest the timing belt took at least 1/4-turn to reach 100 lb/ft....one of the center bolts near cylinder #2 actually took near 1/2-turn. She drove it all weekend and it hasn't pushed a drop of coolant since.

 

[98mitsubishigst]

Have you tried renting a cooling system pressure tester from a parts store and see what the results are? You can pressurize the system overnight and see what happens, much like doing a boost leak test for your cooling system.

A couple things to consider:

- If the block is cracked, you'd probably be getting coolant in the oil.
- If the rings or ring lands are cracked from previous severe overheating, it would probably result in very inconsistent compression test results between warm and cold.


I've had some issues myself recently when Christi's 1G non-turbo began pushing coolant into the recovery tank and overheating- a clear sign of a failed head gasket. When I built that engine 5 years and almost 50K miles ago when my buddy Jeff owned it, I know he just bought an eBay gasket set so really it's been on borrowed time ever since.

On Thanksgiving I decided as a last-ditch effort I'd pull the valve cover and re-torque all the head bolts to a higher value, around 100 lb/ft. Ended up that all of the bolts with the exception of the two nearest the timing belt took at least 1/4-turn to reach 100 lb/ft....one of the center bolts near cylinder #2 actually took near 1/2-turn. She drove it all weekend and it hasn't pushed a drop of coolant since.

I blew a coolant line hahahaha it kinked.. gotta replace that before i can do the pressure tester, but i will do that asap.

 

[ishnish]

Hey guys, I'v come across an issue after one of my more recent modifications (battery relocation) and have noticed that now there appears to be white smoke coming out of my exhaust. It is winter time and I don't drive my car much anymore at all. I start it twice a day and let it run (idle) for 5-10 minutes before turning it off. This all started one night when I went to go start my car. It was probably the first really cold day towards winter time. I noticed white smoke coming out of my exhaust pipe. I figured it was normal. Then I began to notice my windshield getting foggy. I got out and saw smoke coming from the engine bay. I immediately popped my hood but saw nothing. The smoke was gone. This was about a month ago and hasn't happened since up until today when I finally drove my car for the firs time in over a month. I figured the white smoke that was coming out of the exhaust would stop at one point since it's cold out. Nope, didn't stop. And while I was on my way to work, I noticed it starting to come out of the engine bay again. I immediately pulled over to check the bay but, agian, nothing! I really don't know what it could be or what caused it. It couldn't have been the relocation. The only logical explanation I could see is that I haven't driven my car in a while. I really hope it's not my head gasket. Any way of finding out guys? The white smoke dissipates pretty fast I think. Depends on what everyone considers "fast" I guess. If I left anything out please let me know.

Thanks

 

[matt1g]

Well when a car smokes you can kind of tell from the color blue smoke is burning oil black smoke is fuel and white smoke is antifreeze/coolant i would start by checking your oil dipstick if the oil looks like its milky or watery then most likely its the head gasket also probably wouldnt be a bad idea to check your coolant lines to the turbo

 

[cl1ckclack]

probably just condensation in your exhaust...

 

[BogusSVO]

Any loss of coolant?

Have you pulled the rad cap and checked for bubles?

 

[erkitner]

I'll second the coolant checks. Check your intake valves as well. Any carbon buildup won't provide good seal and can cause white smoke as well.

 

[ishnish]

Well when a car smokes you can kind of tell from the color blue smoke is burning oil black smoke is fuel and white smoke is antifreeze/coolant i would start by checking your oil dipstick if the oil looks like its milky or watery then most likely its the head gasket also probably wouldnt be a bad idea to check your coolant lines to the turbo

Well this is just white smoke so this is why I thought it to be coolant instead of anything else.

I checked my oil dipstick yesterday and it wasn't milky at all. Haven't checked my coolant lines to the turbo.

probably just condensation in your exhaust...

I pray that's all it is

Any loss of coolant?

Have you pulled the rad cap and checked for bubles?

I took off the radiator cap a week ago and there were no bubbles from what I recall. The overflow reservoir was practically empty so I filled it to the full mark. I also opened the cap to fill that area as well but it overflowed right away because it was right at the neck. 2 days later after starting it and letting it idle one day and driving it a short distance the next, I checked the reservoir and it was almost empty again. Yesterday however, I checked it and it was actually quite a bit higher than before so I guess more went back into the reservoir. I was kinda' lost . It's probably right at low right now on the overflow.

I'll second the coolant checks. Check your intake valves as well. Any carbon buildup won't provide good seal and can cause white smoke as well.

Never even thought about this. I'll try figuring out how to do that when I get home since I'm on my lunch at work right now.

OH and as an UPDATE:

The second time I drove the car back from work (the problem happened on the way to work), all of the white smoke was gone and everything was normal. So idk what this could mean..