Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

[Ludachris]

Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.

 

[Kevin Jewer]

Originally posted by toshi128
hey 95gsxracer, what other mods did you have with 14b when you were running 12's???

When I originally hit 12s last october I had the 14b, profec, UICP with 1g BOV, AFC, 2.5" turbo back, K&N. Thats about it. Stock pump, injectors, and SMIC. I had the suspension mods in my mod list as well, but back then I was only getting like low 1.8 sixty footers.

 

[Ben K]

Originally posted by ryan2987
What kind of supporting mods are needed for the APG LR2 and can that turbo be daily driven?

Minimum FMIC, Supra Fuel Pump or Walbro 255, at least 660cc injectors, and cams will always help.

Excellent choice for daily street driven cars.

 

[ryan2987]

thanks guys, this is the turbo of my dreams. when larry gets his turbo on ill ask what i need and how he likes it.

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by ryan2987
thanks guys, this is the turbo of my dreams. when larry gets his turbo on ill ask what i need and how he likes it.

dont wait on larry his setup is very differnet from yours. listen to ben or give him a call. i would get the L2R now, i would not wait.

 

[ILOSE]

Why not just go with a T72. That seems to be a popular choice now.

 

[ryan2987]

i havent checked the T72 but for around 3000 im not really interested. Plus this LR2 is cheaper and seems really good for what im going to do with my car.

 

[ryan2987]

also ben, with the FMIC, 660 injectors with intake and 3"exhaust what could i expect on my AWD

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by ryan2987
also ben, with the FMIC, 660 injectors with intake and 3"exhaust what could i expect on my AWD

add cams and i would say 11.5 is not out of the question

 

[Ludachris]

Originally posted by ILOSE
Why not just go with a T72. That seems to be a popular choice now.

:laugh: Smart ass!

 

[KenTSIII]

I know that Nick Visockey has his L2R for sale... it has polished compressor housing, & SS oil feed & return lines. I think he said that he was wanting $13-1400 for it. I also heard that the AGP dual BB turbos are gonna go up in price real soon.. and that they will likely be in the $1500+ range. So act now or take a hit in the wallet.

 

[STARION]

just go with a garrett right from the start, get the most streetable, then if ya wanna upgrade it will be cheaper, it seems like a lot for the whole kit ($1800), but just for fun, lets compare it to a 20G set-up:
20G= $1000
WG= 250
2G EM= $200 ,
there are just a few things and youre already at $1450, just spend another $350, and you could get a garrett. People will disagree with me, but im a garrett fan, so go figure


Check it out:

www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/garretparts.htm

 

[DMS-WhiteGSX]

Whenever I decide to build my engine and go race only, which is a definately possiblity with the amount of money I'm running into soon, I think I am going to go with a t-61, that will get me where you wanna go.

as for an 11, or 10 second daily driven DSM, keep dreaming, it just doesn't seem very likely, contrary to popular belief whats-his-faces 9 second "daily driven" dsm isnt really that daily driven. he drives it like one or two times a week..

I'd go for 13s & 12s before I'd shoot for low 11s and low 10s..

 

[NDgsx]

Originally posted by DMS-WhiteGSX
whats-his-faces 9 second "daily driven" dsm isnt really that daily driven.

You call yourself a dsmer and you can't remember John Shepard's name? What the hell is the world coming to?
No John doesn't drive his car on the street much, it's too much to loose. If some jackass in a big truck hits him how would he race at the next event?

Now back on the subject. This all depends on your definition of "daily driven". If buy that you mean your only mode of transportation that you drive to work EVERYDAY, it is much more likely that purple elephants will fly out of my butt. However if you mean a car that you drive to work most of the time and there is another car you can drive work should anything happen, THEN it's more realistic.
The bottom line is parts will break, you will have to antecipate that. You will need to do much more preventive maintance if you want the car to live very long.
The best thing I ever bought for my dsms was a 89 honda civic . I have the freedom to work on my car whenever I want. If I get angry I can put the wrenches away and go have a beer. If there is a part delay, oh well the jackstands aren't hurting it. I can always get to work and do all my normal things.

I think that most people who just get into dsms don't really realize exactly how fast an 11second car is.
Before getting too far into it talk to people on your local lists. See if you can take a ride in a couple of other cars. You might find out that a 12 second car isn't really slow at all

 

[UndergroundR32]

I am looking for 11's to start out with and am in the process of building my 4G63. I'm getting my block and head at the end of this week. I'm going to be running an FP Red with Ross 8.5:1 pistons and crower rods. I'm going to be spending the most probably on my head which I'm sending to ARI. I already have full suspension so that is taken care of. KYB AGX all the way around. Front and rear strut tower bars. Front and rear sway bars. 1.8 manual steering rack. H&R springs. Might have left something out not sure but that's basically my rolling chassis mods so far. Also I will be running a NX dry system.
I wouldn't say this will be a daily driver but it will be a street car

 

[BatmanGSX]

Originally posted by jdmawd
a 18G is a complete waste of time, get a big 16 or go for the 20G

And why is that exactly? 18Gs are cheap now, they fit the same way a 16G and Big16G do (unlike a 20G), and behave almost the same but with more top end. All the "G" wheels are all pretty similar, some just flow a little more than the previous. If an 18G is a waste so is a Big16G. The 18G is just as much bigger than a big 16G as it is over a small 16G. I suggest you learn a little bit more about the common mitsu turbos before giving crappy advice.

 

[UndergroundR32]

Like you said it's nice to have a secondary car like that. I have a 95 civic that I got for cheap and it's basically my winter car. I would love to keep it on the road next summer with the galant but I cant afford to have two cars insured at the same time due to my idiotic driving in the past. I pay 5k a year just for one so I wouldn't even want to imagine what it would cost. I've been thinking lately about buying a bike since the insurance for that is so much less. I have always wanted a bike as a primary driver but have seen to many injuries and deaths because of deer or worse other cars who dont see them, therefore I decided it would be smarter to be surrounded on all sides. I said in my previous post that I hope to have an 11 second street car, but that is aiming kind of high.. Because I may only have this one car on the road at a time I may keep it in the mid 12 second range. That is still high but it will be a well built car. I have money for extra rears and transfer case if need be. I'm going to replace the synchros right off the bat with double cone 2nd gear synch's, a 4 gear spyder center diff and I'm going to run Haltech. If you aren't going to build your car right away then keep an eye on my posts in the next 6 months and see how it goes with my car.

 

[UndergroundR32]

Originally posted by Ludachris
Ahh, a truly helpful thread with no bashing - you guys are bringing a tear to my eye.

Keep in mind that 11's and below will push your drivetrain to the limit, so tranny rebuilds and new transfer cases/rear ends will be in order. You're also likely going to experience other parts failing and will have to devote alot of time and money to repairs. It's not as simple as bolting on parts and a turbo. All cars that go that fast have the same problems. I'd recommend keeping your goal to low 12's and avoid having to rebuild the whole car - unless you have the money for it. If you hit an 11 every now and then, great!

Ryan, check with LarryD in a week or two, as he just bought that turbo and should have some first hand experience to share with you. I do believe it's a very streetable turbo.

I'm glad we have the smartest ones running the boards

 

[DMS-WhiteGSX]

Originally posted by NDgsx
You call yourself a dsmer and you can't remember John Shepard's name? What the hell is the world coming to?

Sorry, I'm bad with names. And what you said about driving in a 12 second DSM is true, a 12 second car is fast. A lot of people are stuck in this whole "10 second car phase" thanks to F&F, that they don't realize how insanely fast that actually is, and how unlikely it is to be street driven.

 

[STARION]

yes, people have no idea how fast a 10 second car is, and in all honesty, (for a DSM) having a 10 second daily driver is really an oxymoron. If it is a 10 second, 2 liter, 4 cylander. the chances are you couldn't drive it everyday if you wanted to, it would just break too many things and have a ton of down time.

Everyone will hate me for this but:
If you really want a 10 second daily driver, get an american car with a V8 (5.0, F-body, etc). There are many examples of them that are very quick, and street driven. The parts are just out there that will allow you to make an american V8 run 10s, be street driven, and be reliable (well not really reliable, no car in the 10s will ever be)

But I would NEVER get one (V8), because its about what a DSM is. Its about the refinement and technology, plus the versatility, you can spend little money, make it quicker than most all of the cars on the road, you can auto cross it, take it to the drag strip, and go get some groceries, and get decent gas mileage. There are a ton of other things that make them great and I could go on and on, but ill stop here.

 

[DMS-WhiteGSX]

Originally posted by STARION
But I would NEVER get one (V8), because its about what a DSM is. Its about the refinement and technology, plus the versatility, you can spend little money, make it quicker than most all of the cars on the road, you can auto cross it, take it to the drag strip, and go get some groceries, and get decent gas mileage. There are a ton of other things that make them great and I could go on and on, but ill stop here.

Anyone remember the Mach V ad in the SCC magazines?

Eclipse/Talon Owner's To Do List:

1. Commute to work
2. Get milk at store
3. Stop at drag strip, run 11 second 1/4mi

 

[larryd]

id say Big28 is good for mid-high 12s in AWD and a good choice for a 2g since its direct bolt on but as you said its on back order for like 2 months from what i heard.. so Id say get the 16G instead..the equivalent

 

[HBM4G63]

I have decided to go with the br57. Not a lot of people have this turbo and i want to follow in other peoples footsteps. I like that it is a t3/t4 hybrid. Also buschur ran a 10.46 with this turbo. Also it is not that much. 875.00. The only other thing that I will need to buy is a new exhaust manifold, external wastegate, and the oil line. that is only like a total of 1,500.00.

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by HBM4G63
I have decided to go with the br57. Not a lot of people have this turbo and i want to follow in other peoples footsteps. I like that it is a t3/t4 hybrid. Also buschur ran a 10.46 with this turbo. Also it is not that much. 875.00. The only other thing that I will need to buy is a new exhaust manifold, external wastegate, and the oil line. that is only like a total of 1,500.00.

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[rdrkt]

Br-57 has made 600 hp to the wheels no nitrous on two different cars. Full boost available around 4500. Nothing to regret there bud.

 

[DSMotorsport]

Well, Iv been pretty consistent @ 125mph and 11.1-11.0 with a 50 trim T3T4 with Stage 3 turbine/.63 housing

I am going to put a 60-1 stage 3/.63 on the car this week and test again.
I hope the 60-1 compressor is worth some sizable gains.