Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

[Ludachris]

Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.

 

[Rob]

http://www.agpturbo.com <~~~ there you go ....... dont be scared to buy it take the hit if you have to break out with the credit card and just pay it off if you are short on cash ....... just dont miss out the groop deal is over at the end of the month from what i have heard.
Hope to see you with that T28 real soon
Later

Rob

 

[jdmawd]

who actually drives there dsm daily? i know 2 people that have 10 second dsms that are drivable to and from the track if needed. i don't see why the idea of a 10 second street driven dsm is unthinkable.

 

[BatmanGSX]

I stopped driving my DSM daily over two years ago. I only drove it daily for like eight months I think. I put 20K on it in the first six months. It was pretty reliable but I also didn't do any real mods beyond the free ones.

I couldn't imagine driving it daily now. I like my Camry

 

[KenTSIII]

I drive my car daily... the 6 months out of the year that it's not down for repairs/upgrades.

Sidenote.. how come a simple Timing belt job can lead to new turbo, new FMIC, 660s, SS O2housing w/ 40mm gate, tial BOV, vpc, evc ez, 272s, ect???

 

[BatmanGSX]

Originally posted by KenTSIII
I drive my car daily... the 6 months out of the year that it's not down for repairs/upgrades.

Sidenote.. how come a simple Timing belt job can lead to new turbo, new FMIC, 660s, SS O2housing w/ 40mm gate, tial BOV, vpc, evc ez, 272s, ect???

Simple timing belt job for me =

FP Green
Cams/Gears
3" O2 w/46mm gate
Huge FMIC w/Tial BOV
Crazy ECU chip that I have to use a 2G MAS and 850cc injectors with
New head (from you )
New shortblock with 2G pistons
New exhaust
Tranny rebuild

I was going to have a nice 20G/550s/1G MAS/AFC car (that's what it was before the belt slipped). Now I have a cluster fu@k that is never going to be done.

 

[LASERLX]

Originally posted by STARION
yes, people have no idea how fast a 10 second car is, and in all honesty, (for a DSM) having a 10 second daily driver is really an oxymoron. If it is a 10 second, 2 liter, 4 cylander. the chances are you couldn't drive it everyday if you wanted to, it would just break too many things and have a ton of down time.

Everyone will hate me for this but:
If you really want a 10 second daily driver, get an american car with a V8 (5.0, F-body, etc). There are many examples of them that are very quick, and street driven. The parts are just out there that will allow you to make an american V8 run 10s, be street driven, and be reliable (well not really reliable, no car in the 10s will ever be)

But I would NEVER get one (V8), because its about what a DSM is. Its about the refinement and technology, plus the versatility, you can spend little money, make it quicker than most all of the cars on the road, you can auto cross it, take it to the drag strip, and go get some groceries, and get decent gas mileage. There are a ton of other things that make them great and I could go on and on, but ill stop here.

this is a good point...a 10 second V8 car will be way more reliable than any 10 second 4 banger....I'm planning on throwing a little boost on my fox body 5.0 (which already runs high 11s on motor) and i'm pretty sure with 500 at the wheels it will easily turn high 10s and be able to be driven anywhere

Now i would never try to build a daily driven DSM and expect to run without breakage

My laser right now is my daily driver and my plans for it are just to run mid 13s at a high mph with stock turbo and bolt ons....I have a 91 Talon i plan to build up using the stock turbo and nitrous and yes we will break a lot of parts with it

 

[NJGSX96]

I daliy drive both my DSMs. When I want raw and grunt I drive the 1G which has run mid 12s, but with tuning will go 11s. When I want comfort and quiet, I drive my 13 second 2G, which should run 12s when I replace the clutch. Contrary to what most people say, my DSMs have been very reliable. The only time they break is when I mess with them. Then again, take any 10 year old car and make it put out twice the power and you should expect some failures along the way. nothing catostrophic though.
Now as for a 10 second daily ride, I am sure it could be done, but it would take a lot of money and even more patience. I think a 13 second car is fast enough for most people. However, once you go 12s, you'll want more and then 11s will be next. Damn snowball effect.

 

[Tevenor]

Originally posted by NJGSX96
However, once you go 12s, you'll want more and then 11s will be next. Damn snowball effect.

Preach on brutha!

I just went 12.69 @ 110 and 12.76 @ 112 this past weekend on a stock Sidemount and the first things through my head were:

"If I finally break down and get a decent frount mount..."

and

"Next time I will run 25 psi on C16 instead of running 21 psi on 100 octane"

and

"If I cut my 1.92 short times to 1.75 short times..."

Before I would have been happy with a mid to high 12's. Now I am thinking on how to squeeze out a high 11. Its a sickness. And I don't even drag that much. This is supposed to be an autocross car.

What makes it worse is that my other 'reliable daily driver' is a 92 Talon. **sigh** I am an idiot.

 

[NJGSX96]

Originally posted by Tevenor


Preach on brutha!

I just went 12.69 @ 110 and 12.76 @ 112 this past weekend on a stock Sidemount and the first things through my head were:

"If I finally break down and get a decent frount mount..."

and

"Next time I will run 25 psi on C16 instead of running 21 psi on 100 octane"

and

"If I cut my 1.92 short times to 1.75 short times..."

Before I would have been happy with a mid to high 12's. Now I am thinking on how to squeeze out a high 11. Its a sickness. And I don't even drag that much. This is supposed to be an autocross car.

What makes it worse is that my other 'reliable daily driver' is a 92 Talon. **sigh** I am an idiot.

I hear that. being in the same boat as you, except the reliable daily driver is the 96 and the one I mess with is the 92, although I do drive that daily too. I split duty usually 3 days for one, 4 for the other, putting anywhere from 10-15K miles on each car, per year. I like each car for different reasons so switching helps me appreciate each one more.

I started with the 2G saying all I want is 13s (back when 13s were considered pretty fast for a DSM) so I went out and bought a T28/S60 (back when NO ONE liked them) and supporting mods. 13.3@103. MPH there for a 12, but driving sucked at the time. Then I felt that was just too slow. Went out and bought a 1G, equipped it with a 16G, FMIC, etc etc and rebuilt the motor since that was dead. 12s. After running 12s half the season and then blowing up the trans... not fast enough. Rebuilt trans, bought a 20G, 660 injectors and cams, and hit the track. Car sputtering all over the place and the alternator and battery take a crap in the staging lanes. Still ran a 12.6@112 on pump. Car has 11s in her, but will it be enough? Here is where I stand now. Just have to replace the coil, hopefully with COP, and then I hit the track again. God I hope 11s will be enough but I doubt it. Hopefully it will be enough to at least tie me over until I can save some more money!

 

[LaserRST]

I think a daily driven ten second DSM turbo is do-able. I feel the reason why v8s get more tunable top horses because the amount of torque that these engines produce on their own. A four cylinder has an advantage with a higher revving engine, by putting most of its HP in the top end I have hope of putting 600+ hp in these cars and still be a daily driver. I would expect balancing, blue printing, and really hefty valve train!! I may be in way over my head, but ima small dispacement convert. I built 3 different big blocks and a VG30E.

I will not give up hope........ dont fill me in on reality just yet.... I love it up here:laugh:

 

[Joty]

I wanna buy a turbo for my Eclpise GS if some one can help me to pick up something good that can make it fast for about 3000$ and if you can give me a web adress or shop near fort laudedale...


thanks

 

[Phoenix_RsX]

I used to have aN/T before I picked up my Eclipse. IMOP, hahn has the best turbo setup for non turbo Eclipses....nest would be star performance.


www.hahnracecraft.com

 

[CL MaNTis GST]

sell your car... and add the $3k and get yourself a GST.

much better IMO... more boost for your buck!

g'luck!

 

[RaysTsi]

Dont go with star! if you go to bbs.asog.net you can find out for yourself why i say don't go with star! Its cheap, crappier, and hrcs kit is much better designed and tested and proven to work.

 

[hd223]

Originally posted by CL MaNTis GST
sell your car... and add the $3k and get yourself a GST.

much better IMO... more boost for your buck!

g'luck!

I agree...Except you may want a GSX instead.

 

[larryriverside]

i have a 1990 awd eclipse. i have 2 1/2 no restriction exhaust, upgraded dejon sidemount intercooler, 550cc injectors, buschur racing fuel pump, act 2600 clutch, ported 2g exhaust manifold, ecu upgrade, stainless 2 1/2in o2 housing, 2 1/2in dejon intake,manual boost control, and a boost guage. what turbo would you suggest? i am looking for a well balanced street maching in the end. i would like to get a reliable 350 hp. also, with the turbo that you suggest, what kind of boost pressure could i run without worrys? right now i am only at 14 lbs. i know i can turn it up a little, but the car is already very quick!

 

[eyebrowski]

if you are looking to go for a bolt on turbo the 16G is capable of that kind of HP with the right supporting mods. if you are looking for a little more you could go with the 20G but you will probably be at the point of needing a new IC. if bolt up compatibility is not a concern, a smaller t3/t4 (50 trim) would make the kind of power you are looking for. all of these turbos are very streetable.

 

[Wilsonman02]

I'd get a 16G or a 20G. 15-18psi on the street and 20-25 for track.

 

[red clipse]

Not to get off topic, but I have a 16g I am trying to get rid of. It is brand new, no miles. If you're interested.

Yeah a 16g or 18g would be good for that 350hp. It all depends on what the use is. A 16g would give you a pretty mean street car.

 

[CBgst]

I would go for the 20g to make that hp number easier. It can be done with a 16g but will require more boost and better tuning. I'm not sure about the intercooler though. That's my opinion. I understand that it's easier to make more hp with a bigger turbo and less tuning. If your a great tuner then get the 16g and you should be fine. If this is wrong then someone please correct me because this what I have gathered from some stuff I've read.

 

[larryriverside]

thanks! how much mor lag am i going to have with the 20g compared to a 16g. both with porting

 

[eyebrowski]

16G ~3000rpms
20G ~36-3700rpms

 

[Bigwilly6754]

Just wondering that everyones options are !

 

[SOURCE1064]

I got a Slowboy Racing G60-1 TO4ER housing, Big Stage 3 wheel. It's a direct bolt on which is cool. I'd like to try to make 500hp if I can with nitrous. So far one of Mike's customers made 467hp with this turbo, he has the info on his site. Check out his site, www.slowboyracing.com He has real good prices also and the service is superb. What goals do you have in mind?

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

If you want to ask about a turbo you must follow these guidlines.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12447

Threads like this will never give you the answer you are looking for.