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Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,831
4,642
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.
 
The FP big 28 bolts right in with absolutely no fabrication or special work needing to be done. You only need some stock parts (which are often left out on "kits"). If you want I can get you all the part numbers you need and a few discount dealers (20-25% off list price).
With a turbo of that size you don't need a ball bearing turbo. There aren't any ballbearing turbos available yet for dsms that are small enough for your lack of supporting mods (even at low boost).
 
Any GOOD turbo shop you talk to will help you make sure you get all the parts you need to "bolt it on to your car and make it run." And there are a lot of "bolt-on" turbos out there (no "custom fitting or fab"), and for a lot less than $2000, even with the install kit. The T3/T4 does fit, as do the AGP ball-bearing turbos and the Forced Performance ones. For $2K, you could get the turbo and have SEVERAL hundred left over for putting towards a FMIC or whatever. For instance, the FP Big28 is only $750 if you send in your stock turbo in exchange, and it's for sure a direct fit bolt-on upgrade.
 
"and i need a kit cuz i don't want to leave out a part and screw up my engine"

you don't need a kit from greddy, just buy a big t28 that bolts right in , sure you might need a gasket but's it no big deal, honestly it sounds like you don't know what your doing and you are going to let a garage do it for you anyway, t28 bolts in, a mitsubishi turbo like a big 16g or a 20g or any other one that uses a mitsu housing you need an install kit from any major vendor. if you blew a head gasket from over boosting I would fix that and do the fuel mods or this time you will burn your pistons.
 
I'm on a small budget. So far, I've got 3" exhaust, 16G, manual boost controller. I'm only running 14 psi. No idea what my times are, I haven't gotten to a strip and broke 2nd gear last week. But I did whomp on a guy in a new mustang gt, 0-70 mph from a light onto a 2 lane onramp. What would that probably be in the 1/4? I'm guessing high 13s, but thats just a guess.

Right now my money is being saved for trans rebuild by TRE and I'm driving my beater 91 CRX Si. I though it was quick when I was a teenager and bought it, but that car feels like a dog now. anyways...once I get the trans fixed and back in the car I plan on putting in a high flow fuel pump. More in the future as money is saved for my Talon, which is a somewhat slow process (damn student loans).
 
Originally posted by IPT
Then is a guy named John Adamson. He ran a 12.21@113 with a full weight 2G stock motor, stock injectors and stock SMIC. He then backed it up with a 12.22. Ohh yeah this was a 4600 ft above sea level. Not too bad.

I was just curious how you heard about that time?

I get on here and it seems like word gets around and you don't even know it... :laugh:

For real though, as Sunflashx said, take the 12.21 and 12.22 timeslips at Wendover with a grain of salt. The mph was pulled from my log of the runs, but that was just when I shut down, may have speeded through the traps. It's difficult to confirm if the track is calibrated correctly. I have an official slip from an NHRA track at [email protected] and [email protected].

It could be real, or not... not sure. The track for the 12.45 run sits at 4600 ft, with the valley, heat, and poor air quality, dyno correction during the summer runs 7,000 - 11,000 ft (I didn't believe it either till I saw it). The other track is 120 miles out sitting about 4200 ft., but it's wide and open with no real mountains to block air circulation. So that may be enough for two tenths. I was told I was smoking all 4 tires coming off the line so I don't know if I may have dropped a tenth in the 60' to give me 2 at the traps.

Just wanted to clear everything up so no one has any misunderstandings.
 
i have a stock talon tsi fwd automatic if i wanted to upgrade the turbo which one should i get that would produce about 300hp. Also would i have to buy anything else
 
I just finished a tranny rebuild and a act 2600 install. I am planning on getting an egt gauge, fuel pump,rewire kit and a safc and a o2 sensor housing back ehaust next, but thinking about getting a new turbo when getting the stuff anyway. Money is kinda of tight I do everything myself but still know how much little things add, up like I know if a go big need injectors going to need afpr, o2 sensor housing. I know I need a intercooler and a blow off valve. I was thinking about an internally wastegated 20g. would anyone suggest anything else. I really am worried about breaking something else, am I getting too performance hungry or should I stick with a big 16g or a agp t28?? the 20g is is only like 100$ more then the big 16g ported. Don't tell me I need a bv and upper ic piping, trying to find a used kit now besides the car is not driven only 16 right now.
 
You're trying to put 300 hp thru the stock auto tranny? Methinks you may want to invest in a very stout tranny rebuild from someone who races mitsu automatics (dave buscher may know someone, his brother has used an auto) before you even think about a new turbo. With a higher stall speed converter and a damned good tranny oil cooler.
Autos work well (see a buick GNX) since you don't lose as much boost when shifting. The compromise is neck snapping shifts on the street...all the time. And you will need to buy a 2g M/T exhaust manifold (correct me if i'm wrong) to fit even a 14b on it. Your stock tranny may be able to handle a t-25, 14b or a small 16G stock, but even a small 16G would be pushing the stock tranny, especially if you have high miles or don't have all the maintenance records to prove it was serviced properly. Plus, if you buy a 14b or a 16G, you have to buy the 2g install kit with it.
 
Beemer: He already has a 2G manifold, he doesn't need to buy one.

Rough steps to 300hp (2G): Boost and EGT/O2 voltage gauges, Aftermarket or 1G Blow off valve, Full 3" (or 2.5") exhaust, Hard intake (MAS to Turbo) Pipe, Fuel pump upgrade, Upper IC pipe upgrade, Turbo upgrade*, 550 cc/min injectors**, AFC***.

*Turbo upgrade options:
Direct bolt in: T28, FPBig28, AGP28,
1G style housing: 14B, 16G, Big16G
Bigger turbos: 20G, Green, ETE32/42, AGP L2R/r, Frank 2/3

**Injector upgrade necessity would depend on the size/output of turbo selected

***AFC might not be necessary if retaining stock injectors

See the 2G tuning guide elsewhere on this website.
 
I was running a 16G killer and had over 300 hp. I don't recomend that turbo at all though. I also do suggest looking into tranny beef up. I blew my tranny with my t-25. I am now building my motor, and I have an 18G, 75hp nx shot, and nx n-ter cooler. I have decided to try a kit from levelten performance. http://www.levelten.com/store/import/items/pts/ja113_3000_chryl_mitsu.htm

Here are their claims, I'm trying this before my swap back to stick:

This is not just a kit of parts - it is a meticulously engineered System of finest-quality components to provide a "bulletproof" transmission rebuild for severe service applications. Applications include Sport Utility, RV's, heavy loads, pulling heavy trailers, high performance, high horsepower, turbocharged and supercharged engines. These Systems feature Raybestos® PTS™ clutches.

Fixes sloppy shifts, burnt clutch and bands, slippage, gear disengagement in OD, soft slipping 3rd shift, no reverse, no forward gears,2-3 flair up, rev limiter on shifts, flashing OD light.
A must have for NOS, Turbo, Supercharged machines.
Time 6-9 hours. Skill 3 transmission removal necessary.
Performance enhanced when used in conjunction with I112-2750 SHIFTRONIC, JA317-3000 TORQUE CONVERTER.
Torque 650 ft. 750 HP.
Mitsubishi / Chrysler Imports 1995-up All FWD
 
I am going for 300-350hp @ 20psi. Would the FP T28 or the 16g get me to my goals? And can I run the above goals with either turbo on pump gas?
 
16g is alright but i prefer the GT Ball Bearing that produces 580 HP with little lag...HKS makes this. but if those r the choices, go wit 16g
 
Agp T28 will put you in the 300 hp and spools up under 3000 rpm
There maxed out about 360hp very good turbos and will put you in the 12s with the right set up and race gas. And as for the price .... cant beat 650.00 with porting and gasket groop buy just my 0.02 cents
 
AGP is having a group buy right now and forced perofrmance is having big28s on sale.. but it doesnt say that on the website, you have to call (btw its 10% off on all FP turbos)
 
Fp needs to come down in there priceing ........im just saying Agp is haveing there groop deal and makeing a damm good name for themselfs and if im going to do any dealing with a turbo shop i'll be sure to work with them again there great with sending stuff out fast .... great turbos....and nice tec suport. Agp vs Fp and there T28 ...... there almost the same one make make 2 to 8 hp more who knows ???? but id rater save 100 or 200 bucks going with Agp T28 and make kick ass hp fast.
< just my thoughts on the turbo companys and turbos> so no one get mad. im sure the people with the fp are happy with theres but im sure they would say go with agp cause of the saveings and great looking turbo.

Later [][\][][]

Rob
 
AGP T28 YEAHHH BABY WILL BE IN MY CAR TOMORROW just cant beat that groop price deal ......if you dont have the $$$ put it on your credit card dont miss out i know i didnt =0) and its A EASY BOLT ON NO KIT NEEDED. and i have heard nothing bad about Agp.
 
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