when need Eagle crank

[MarsaGSX]

as title says...Iam wondering when someone needs Eagle crank??
Iam befor engine build and Iam still thinking on my setup...my final target (dream)is 9.99sec on 1/4mile
I know many guys runing 10 and 9sec slips with stock 6Bolt crank...evil eagle ...

nex is that thing..My crank will be grinded..its first time..

I can spend 2K usd into Crank/rods/pistons... but if don´t need eagle crank can spend 800usd in cams,gaskets..etc

need some opinion ..I know its better to get stronger crank...

Thank you
Venca

 

[Big Woo]

First you should make an honest guess, at what your total budget will be. Then compare that with your goal, and see if the can co-exhist. If they do then move forward with your plan, if not then re-evaluate.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

I would keep the stock crank. I have seen stock knife-edged one's go low 10's all day long with no sign's of stress. If you can afford it though it is always a nice peice to have. But not something that you need. I would keep the stock and spend the money on the topend.

 

[Street Surgeon]

I'd look around for a good uncut used 6-bolt crank, if you were going to build a stroker I'd suggest an Eagle crank (wish I had gotten one) but for a 6-bolt 2.0 just get a good shape stocker and have the oil passages thoroughly cleaned out.

 

[MarsaGSX]

To Big Woo:
There is no any Total budget..I will build Year or two...
Thanks
To95blackGsTurbo,Street Surgeon
Yes,thats what I wants to hear...but get Not scratched 6Bolt crank in Czech is impossible...And get shipped 15kg crank from Us to Czch
How about run 1st grind(cut on my crank???)I can always take out OilPan and install new crank.... (maybe will get money in future.. )

..BTW tell me howmany mm´s is one grind..??? Like in pistons Stock bore is 85mm,first bore is 85.5mm,second bore is 86mm..
How it goes in cutting crank??

Who is runing some FAST cuted crank???

Thanks
Venca

 

[Elvenhome21]

it will probably be .5mm or .25mm. Normally when a crank is ground they only try to take off .010 of an in per "grind" which is close to .25mm. But if it has deep grooves in it, there can be up to 1mm taken off, Which isn't the worst because the smaller the bearing journal, the less friction there will be overall.

As for eagle crank, Spend money else where or on lightening the stock crank. Knifing gun-drilling and such.

 

[MarsaGSX]

it will probably be .5mm or .25mm. Normally when a crank is ground they only try to take off .010 of an in per "grind" which is close to .25mm. But if it has deep grooves in it, there can be up to 1mm taken off, Which isn't the worst because the smaller the bearing journal, the less friction there will be overall.

As for eagle crank, Spend money else where or on lightening the stock crank. Knifing gun-drilling and such.

hey,
thanks for help..
Here in Czech everyone is talking about 0.25mm as a ONE cut...on Both..Crank and cylinder!!! they told me that 0.25mm is One cylinder bore ...Mean in U.S you got 0.5mm in diameter for ONE Bore of cylinder And we got 0.25mm One cylinder Bore

And I was looking on SBR web for bearings.. http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=3945
I am confused of SIZE 0.1 under 0.1 of what???It Can´t be INCH!!! 0.1" is 2.53mm!!!

So you think I can run safely with cuted crank to like 10k rpms..with 600AWHP??Thats what I want....
Iwill spend that money in Gasket kit and BC cams...

Thanks
Venca

 

[aero_sallee]

hey,


And I was looking on SBR web for bearings.. http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=3945
I am confused of SIZE 0.1 under 0.1 of what???It Can´t be INCH!!! 0.1" is 2.53mm!!!

Venca

The decimal place isn't in the right place. Its 0.010"

 

[dwdsm]

? I would worry about other things like How to get enough Lbs. per min to run 9's and getting that power to the ground without breaking drive train parts.... I don't think a crank will be the final decider.. Does shep use a stock crank? If he doesn't now I bet he use to. I would just get it knife edged if anything.

 

[Elvenhome21]

hey,
thanks for help..
Here in Czech everyone is talking about 0.25mm as a ONE cut...on Both..Crank and cylinder!!! they told me that 0.25mm is One cylinder bore ...Mean in U.S you got 0.5mm in diameter for ONE Bore of cylinder And we got 0.25mm One cylinder Bore

And I was looking on SBR web for bearings.. http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=3945
I am confused of SIZE 0.1 under 0.1 of what???It Can´t be INCH!!! 0.1" is 2.53mm!!!

So you think I can run safely with cuted crank to like 10k rpms..with 600AWHP??Thats what I want....
Iwill spend that money in Gasket kit and BC cams...

Thanks
Venca

US is .010/ .25mm per cut on everything for a first cut, As for running a cut crank in High HP application is perfectly fine. With a 600 HP number I would consider getting a trick crank. As for journal size "the smaller the better" in some respects because a smaller bearing has less friction/distance to run per revolution. For Instance with a Small Block Chevy, the trick thing to do is cut the rod journals down to "honda size" a stock journal diameter on a chevy is 2.100"/ 53.34mm and a honda journal is 1.880"/ 47.75mm. All Nascar engines have this done, because at 9500 RPM for 300-500 laps the difference in total distance traveled is a enormous difference between the bearing sizes.

RPM is not the Killer in a crank shaft. the rods/pistons and balance are what cause failure. along with valve springs. If you going to run that type of RPMs spend at least $500 in a valvetrain from titanium valves, dual springs, titanium retainers.

In all my years of racing if its not a rod that fails (particularly the bolts) its a broken valve spring/ floating valve that caused a blow up.

 

[MarsaGSX]

To: dwdsm
To get some lbs will use BC280 cams with Springs and ret..
guy in here on tuners proved these cams and springs to 10500rpms
Already got 1G TB(wanna get some 3"), and runinig 3" Ic pipes...
In future wanna send my head to U.S to instal some oversized valves and some port work...depend on money...

Already talked with Shep about shipping price on tranny... He is very helpfull
BTW in 2006 year he went with Eagle Crank,Grodens and JE pistons...check his site

To Elvenhome21:
Thanks for specs
As for "Honda size" rod bearings...
Iam scared to take out so much material of the rod bearings...How about craking in that place??When you take out that amount of material..probable to brake..??
But that theorie of smaller diameter=less friction due the less friction on perimeter sounds Okay..

How you can ballance your internals with flywheel and underdrive pulley together..If you buy eagles with Ross pistons and install on stock crank... It depends on weights of individual components...In Czech Impossible

You breaking rods or valve train...How about Eagle rods what is your opinion on them(10krpms,600AWHP..)and would like to use Mahle pistons..they are very lightweight and strong...??

Thank you
Venca

 

[Elvenhome21]

Im not sure what the stock journal size is on these cranks, but they are probably close to that size already. It probably wont be to much of a gain with only having 4 cylinders instead of 8 but its always "another step" to get to that perfect engine.

AS for balancing you can do the majority of it your self. I would hope that from eagle and ross that thier parts are weight matched, but it never hurts to check the weights and make them as close to equal as possible. The rod balance is very critical, not just that all of the rods weigh the same but the big ends all weighs the same as all 3 other big ends. And all wrist pin ends weigh the same.

Those rods should be fine for your application, as for pistons as long as they are forged and have a teflon coating on the skirts they are fine.

 

[MarsaGSX]

I will stay with Stock spec if my crank will be okay without scratches...

Next week I will buy new 6Bolt from junkyard..Its pretty hard to get 6Bolt engine in Czech!!!! Iam master ...and got question..
This is N/A 6Bolt block,and should be DOHC head.. is taked out of Galant..Few times read that 6Bolt turbo and 6Bolt N/A Blocks...esp. cranks are the same... So I should be okay with it...??RIGHT??
secondly do you know if N/A 6Bolts with SOHC head had the same crank and block as the 6Bolt turbo blocks??
You never know what is true until you part out personally...I just want to be okay if that 6Bolt was with SOHC head...

Do you have any opinion on Mahle pistons..they are new to DSMworld..but they are great as what I read...
Thanks
Venca

 

[paper_clip_boy]

The Mahle Pistons Are AWESOME pistons for the rest of the Automotive world but I took a Look at the compression ratio of them, 9.5:1 Compression Ratio. Thats more than a Stock N/A Talon.

I personally wouldnt run something that agressive. Cylinder pressure will go through the roof at 10psi.

 

[MarsaGSX]

I found two vendors which sells them..and can´t find any CR specs...??

http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=3914
http://www.maperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16243&cat=0&page=1

Venca

 

[MarsaGSX]

hey,
I decided to go with Stock 6Bolt crank..
Got some questions to it...
Already asked on that difference between 6Bolt turbo and N/A cranks and Blocks...
And I was in contact with junkyard and they should check for me N/A 6Bolt DOHC....BUTTTT they got only N/A 6Bolt SOHC!!!! NEED TO KNOW IF I CAN USE THIS SHORT BLOCK/ Crank with block to use in my aplication....????
Wanna break 10sec slip

Will be great if someone can answer..
I got CAPS ..but there is NO N/A 6Bolt 2.0l 4G63!!!
there is only D31A as a N/A 2.0l FWD,but this engine got different valve cover than 4G63..I think its 420A engine.
from what I found 6 Bolt turbo crank part number years 88-92 is MD 097470 years 92-94 MD187923..but that s7Bolt..right??
So Iam very confused..and since I wanna spend like 2K usd in parts into my engine..wanna be 100%sure I got that right block/crank!!!
Thank you and hope someone know answer

Venca