What long block to chose for 500whp

[Blaze4G63]

I'm looking to start to build an engine for my 1g. I have a knocking engine right now a spare to build, I don't know what kind of rods or pistons to get for my goal of 500whp, I have 272 cams 720cc injectors mhi 16g Wally 255 fuel lap reg Dsmlink v3 3in turbo back no cats Fmic gm translator and aem wideband. I don't know what type of compression would be good for this power and I want it
To be drivable on the street not just a track car, also there's a couple different brands of pistons rods ext and I don't really know what is reliable and what's not. I want a engine that's not going to run like a raped ape for a couple months then blow up. I would like it to be a long lasting powerful weekend warrior, if you could gives some pointers that be great . I also see websites that will build them but there all of options so I don't know what I need. I know it's going to cost a bit but I don't want to spend a ton.

 

[BogusSVO]

A common set up for your power level goal wild be Wiseco pistons and Eagle rods, Manley rods and pistons is another common. Scat rods can be used.

So it can boil down to price and what you can find a deal or on sale.

Now for just buying a short block, ready to drop in, check the marketplace tab, and the supporting vendors.
Like JAM, Force Engineering, Ect.....

 

[viperlp01]

4G63 Short Block 500 series

Available with upgrades!

 

[Kapok6]

I'm looking to start to build an engine for my 1g. I have a knocking engine right now a spare to build, I don't know what kind of rods or pistons to get for my goal of 500whp, I have 272 cams 720cc injectors mhi 16g Wally 255 fuel lap reg Dsmlink v3 3in turbo back no cats Fmic gm translator and aem wideband. I don't know what type of compression would be good for this power and I want it
To be drivable on the street not just a track car, also there's a couple different brands of pistons rods ext and I don't really know what is reliable and what's not. I want a engine that's not going to run like a raped ape for a couple months then blow up. I would like it to be a long lasting powerful weekend warrior, if you could gives some pointers that be great . I also see websites that will build them but there all of options so I don't know what I need. I know it's going to cost a bit but I don't want to spend a ton.

You will hear a lot of people on here argue that a stock block can handle 500. I am not going to confirm or deny that as I haven't tried it on a stock block. What I will say is you don't have to spend a crap load of money to do a forged bottom end. When I had my block built, here is a rough breakdown of what I put into it:

Ross 8.3:1 ceramic coated pistons BNIB from a a member here changing build plans-$350
Eagle H-Beam rods-$300
BSE-$60
ACL main and rod bearings BNIB from another member bailing out on build-<$150

Machine work-Hot tanking,Boring, Honing, polishing crank, chamfering the crankshaft oil holes, and assembling the rotating assembly, if I recall was around $800 ish.

So basically, I had $1600-$1700 in a bottom end, and that was 3yrs ago. I push this thing hard. 30psi on a bigger turbo. Still hasn't let go.

My point being, sure you can spend $2500-$3500 for all the bells and whistles, and I am sure you will get a very capable motor, but it's not necessary to spend that much. Even I would like to get a curt brown block and head eventually, but I am also going for higher goals than you laid out above. Top to bottom with all accessories, I have less than $3k into my entire motor.

 

[T is for TURBO]

You will hear a lot of people on here argue that a stock block can handle 500. I am not going to confirm or deny that as I haven't tried it on a stock block. What I will say is you don't have to spend a crap load of money to do a forged bottom end. When I had my block built, here is a rough breakdown of what I put into it:

Ross 8.3:1 ceramic coated pistons BNIB from a a member here changing build plans-$350
Eagle H-Beam rods-$300
BSE-$60
ACL main and rod bearings BNIB from another member bailing out on build-<$150

Machine work-Hot tanking,Boring, Honing, polishing crank, chamfering the crankshaft oil holes, and assembling the rotating assembly, if I recall was around $800 ish.

So basically, I had $1600-$1700 in a bottom end, and that was 3yrs ago. I push this thing hard. 30psi on a bigger turbo. Still hasn't let go.

That is the same exact bottom end set up I have. I spike at 27psi on an FP Green with E-85 at 17° max timing. I don't have a whole lot of miles on mine, but the miles it does have on it are very hard. It's a stout setup and I wouldn't hesitate to run it again. In fact, once I go external, and replace my 950s, with something bigger, I plan to push it even further.

 

[My1GLaser]

I like Eagle rods better since they have more wrist pin support on the small end than the Manley rods I have. I broke a wrist pin, but I was revving to 9250 during an autoX and kept it there too long. I would get the upgraded pins if you get Wiseco pistons! Other than that, my motor runs great with 20k and TONS of abuse! I've had the head off 3 times in the last 3 years and the pistons look brand new still, the cyl bores look great and the piston was in great shape on the one that broke the pin...other than the slight damage from that incident. Just get a Fel-pro composite gasket and some L19s and you're set for high boost!

 

[JacksonAuto]

There is not one answer to your question. Everyone has their favorite parts and there are hundreds of different combinations that run the gamut from stock shortblocks to fully build $5000 shortblocks. Your best option is somewhere in the middle. First, come up with a realistic budget to work with. Then with that in mind, contact a few builders (not assemblers ) and see what they recommend. After that, decide which one you feel comfortable with and get the ball rolling.

 

[lccynmbr13]

If you're looking to build a longevity motor that can still handle a beating stick with a 2.0 and go with pistons that don't require much extra clearance beyond stock for thermal expansion. Any piston expands with heat however the metallurgy of some forged pistons requires more piston to wall clearance than others. This matters to you because on start up those clearances cause premature wear on the cylinders. A perfect combination for you is a stock crank, Scat or Eagle rods, and Mahle pisons. The Mahles allow you to run a tight 0.0025" to .003" clearance due to their low thermal expansion metal compound. They are not as strong as Wiseco HD or Ross pistons however they are perfectly suited to the power range you are shooting for. You would get very long life and reliability out of such a build. High thermal expansion pistons such as the Wiseco HD or Ross require .0035" to as much as .005" and up for some race builds and that's not something you want to be driving around on to the grocery store and in heavy traffic.