What can i possibly do with ECMlink on my current setup

[Dominasian]

So i bough the Eprom Ecu with ECMlink v3 for my car.
Currently my car has:
t28
3" catback
mbc
narrow band boost and AFR gauges
Turbo timer

everything else is stock.

My question is what can i possibly do right now with ECMlink to make things better ? I am a complete noobie in when it comes to work with ECMlink

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Plus 1! It says even if you have a welder it might be easier. Thats funny since you need to remove the exhaust section anyway. Might as well weld it and forget it.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Some notes to take into consideration when choosing a w/b kit an thinking of considering any AEM gauges HERE

Funny, I've never had that issue with the Ostrich. Then again, I'm running SD with native wideband support, so that might be the kicker between the two.

 

[codym]

This makes zero sense. You are worried about creating a leak where a bung would be welded on to your downpipe, but you are just fine spending 60$ every six months to replace an o2 sensor? You sure you're ready to start modding a car?

Agreed.

OP if you put the wideband in the factory o2 port, you cannot simply take out the factory narrowband o2 and leave the ECU with no way to monitor it. The purpose of welding the bung to the downpipe & running narrow simulation is so you don't have to repetitively replace the narrowband o2 sensor in the factory location.

Now as you stated yourself, you KNOW that putting the wideband in the factory o2 location will reduce its life. Meaning-You'll have to buy another one sooner then you would if you did it how other members have stated.

Correct me if i'm wrong anybody, but The primary purpose of the rear o2 is to tell if the cat is doing its job.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

It has a quicker response at the front o2 position rather then the slight delay 18" down stream,

And no, if you run WB narrow band simulation, you dont need the factory o2 sensor at all, if you were keeping the factory o2 you would not simulate.

 

[djandre]

A lot of good information.I plan on running the same program

 

[dakiller]

Buy an Innovate Wideband sensor, Either the MTX-L for a guage you can mount too or the LM-1 which you will just wire into the ECU and can log it in ECMLink there. Innovate's are far better than the AEM's

Put the O2 sensor in the front O2 spot, ignore the warnings that it isn't good there, it really is ok and lots of people have put it there just fine. Mine has been in there for 12 months and 30,000km and it is still reading spot on.

As you've just pulled out the normal O2 sensor, you need to give the ECU another signal to replace it with. The innovate has 2 sensor wire outputs, one is a narrowband output, it is a signal that is the same as your current O2 sensor, not very useful upgrade, but the other sensor wire is the wideband output, wire it into your ECU, I recommend the EGR pin on the 1G (don't know what the 2G guy's use) - externalsensorinput [ECMTuning - wiki]

In ECMLink, go in to the sensors tab and configure the wideband input, then in the narrowband simulation, pick the wideband input to simulate the narrowband signal that the ECU still needs to work normally.
It is an idea to have a bit of a clue on what a wideband and narrowband signal looks like - http://mgcgti.com/NotesImages/Topic35NotesImage5.jpg

Now it's time to learn how to tune

Really consider moving over to a Speed Density setup, that is a much better way to tune a car.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I used the rear o2 sensor pin in the 2g ecu. Even though its in the front o2 position, you can fix any confusions i. Ecmlink.