What can cause rod knock in 5 miles?

[laserspeeddemon]

Please don't take this wrong, but your experience shows that used internals are a crap shoot. Not to mention the rods were from a knocking engine.

That's why he was supposed to check them for straightness.

 

[Gamble97]

Hope this works out for you.
When i primed my engine, I unplugged the coil pack and cranked it for a 10 seconds, then another 10 then another 10.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Hope this works out for you.
When i primed my engine, I unplugged the coil pack and cranked it for a 10 seconds, then another 10 then another 10.

I smh at you, sir.

 

[crimsondragon]

Hope this works out for you.
When i primed my engine, I unplugged the coil pack and cranked it for a 10 seconds, then another 10 then another 10.

Do you let the fuel flood the cylinders as well? Sounds fun.

 

[turboglenn]

As for used internals i am using rods that twice had failures on the number one rod and although i replaced the number 1, i had a new bushiung put into the old #2 and they have been fiune for over 35K miles now of DAILY ABUSE, used parts don't hurt anything, poor machining and assembly do..

i blamethe machinist as i've been the victim of a bad machinist myself, and then i've used a good machinist and donor/cheap parts and had the best engine ever. Just look at the people making hjuge power on 150k + mile long blocks, those parts are plenty used and still doing well, it's not the age of the part but the inspection, condition and decision to use said parts by the machinist that makes things lik that cause a failure..the machinist should have said "we can't use these" if the part were bad IMO

 

[yukiz]

Whats your Oil clearance on rods? on Cranks? what about the rod gap?

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

I had a 2.3l that threw a rod out the back of the motor after about two miles. The rod that blew was plasti gauged and wiped clean, my only thought was it being the one with the least about of assembly oil.

Check your turbo for play, My brand new evo iii 16g also suffered the fate of my motor as it had in and out play.

I primed my motor pulling the mpi fuse and using the starter, rough on the starter but I have a warranty on it so it doesn't bother me.

 

[TSITurbo95]

^ You should always prime your motor by taking the timing belt off, and using a drill on the oil pump to prime your engine. This way oil will be everywhere it's suppose to be when you go and turn the car over for the first time.

 

[ed1380]

Do you let the fuel flood the cylinders as well? Sounds fun.

Is it really that hard to unplug the injectors?


Countless people have primed their motors with the starter and they're fine. Something else was wrong

 

[T is for TURBO]

^ You should always prime your motor by taking the timing belt off, and using a drill on the oil pump to prime your engine. This way oil will be everywhere it's suppose to be when you go and turn the car over for the first time.

Thats way too much work in my opinion.

I just took some PVC pipe, capped both ends with threaded end caps. Tapped one end cap for a NPT fitting, and the other end for an air fitting. Ran a clear rubber tube from the NPT fitting in the PVC cap to another NPT fitting that was threaded into the OFH. filled the PCV pipe with about 2 quarts of oil, screwed the end with the airfitting in place, then hooked it up the an air line with about 30PSI. I had a ball valve on the airline so I could modulate the air flow so I didn't blow compressed air into the engine. Took me less the 3 minutes to prime the engine.

That's why he was supposed to check them for straightness.

Key words: "supposed to"

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Thats way too much work in my opinion.

I just took some PVC pipe, capped both ends with threaded end caps. Tapped one end cap for a NPT fitting, and the other end for an air fitting. Ran a clear rubber tube from the NPT fitting in the PVC cap to another NPT fitting that was threaded into the OFH. filled the PCV pipe with about 2 quarts of oil, screwed the end with the airfitting in place, then hooked it up the an air line with about 30PSI. I had a ball valve on the airline so I could modulate the air flow so I didn't blow compressed air into the engine. Took me less the 3 minutes to prime the engine.


Key words: "supposed to"

I'm not exactly sure how that would work. Law of physics state that items in motion follow the path of least resistance. Would it be easier for oil to flow up in through the engine through tiny crowded oil galleys or back down the much bigger oil pick up tube? There is no check valve on the oil pickup, so oil can go back down it. I did the starter method by about 3-4 times maybe 10-15 seconds each. But after that I just pulled the timing belt and did it the correct way. And you're right the keywords is "supposed to" it does not mean the well do it, but by that standard they may have just put all stock parts in and stolen my Manley rotating assembly. They are "supposed to" use my parts not steal them.

 

[JusMX141]

Check your turbo for play, My brand new evo iii 16g also suffered the fate of my motor as it had in and out play.

It's not likely the turbo will have any play from such limited use, but I'll guaratee it's suffered some bearing damage as a result of the oil contamination. Dave had an oil pump go out and at the end of the season both journal bearings had aluminum specs embedded in them....and that was from the tiniest amount of aluminum making it's way into the oil supply.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Thats way too much work in my opinion.

I just took some PVC pipe, capped both ends with threaded end caps. Tapped one end cap for a NPT fitting, and the other end for an air fitting. Ran a clear rubber tube from the NPT fitting in the PVC cap to another NPT fitting that was threaded into the OFH. filled the PCV pipe with about 2 quarts of oil, screwed the end with the airfitting in place, then hooked it up the an air line with about 30PSI. I had a ball valve on the airline so I could modulate the air flow so I didn't blow compressed air into the engine. Took me less the 3 minutes to prime the engine.


Key words: "supposed to"

That is way too much work. You already have to time your engine, so why not do it last, rather than building this dohingy thingy to get oil throughout your motor, rather than attaching a drill to the oil pump? Makes no sense to me, but to each their own.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

It's not likely the turbo will have any play from such limited use, but I'll guaratee it's suffered some bearing damage as a result of the oil contamination. Dave had an oil pump go out and at the end of the season both journal bearings had aluminum specs embedded in them....and that was from the tiniest amount of aluminum making it's way into the oil supply.

Well it's a good thing I had a FP inline filter then, huh?

Here's to not taking short cuts

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[crimsondragon]

Is it really that hard to unplug the injectors?


Countless people have primed their motors with the starter and they're fine. Something else was wrong

Probably even easier to just pull the inline fuse that's connected to the fuel pump, assuming they have done a rewire, which any seasoned dsmer should have.

 

[Gamble97]

Do you let the fuel flood the cylinders as well? Sounds fun.

I see I have to be VERY specific with you children. If you have ECMLink do what I did and hold down the gas pedal all the way and it will shut off the injectors while cranking.
Happy?

And if you don't...guess what....it doesn't matter! It's only a few seconds and you are going to change the oil after the initial start up so any fuel that would go below the rings would get washed out with an oil change.

My motor made 452awhp, what did yours make?

 

[T is for TURBO]

I'm not exactly sure how that would work. Law of physics state that items in motion follow the path of least resistance. Would it be easier for oil to flow up in through the engine through tiny crowded oil galleys or back down the much bigger oil pick up tube? There is no check valve on the oil pickup, so oil can go back down it. I did the starter method by about 3-4 times maybe 10-15 seconds each. But after that I just pulled the timing belt and did it the correct way. And you're right the keywords is "supposed to" it does not mean the well do it, but by that standard they may have just put all stock parts in and stolen my Manley rotating assembly. They are "supposed to" use my parts not steal them.

Your're correct, it will flow through the path of least resistance. However, with enough volume @ 30psi should get oil everywhere. This method was able to get oil to the head. Also, I failed to mention that I did this first then I pulled the CAS plug and crankied it over on 5-10 second intervals about a half dozen times. The concept is the same as this, only faster.