What Cams?

[DaisyTuner]

ok so i have the full 16g setup with FIC 650's 255 walbro, and im wondering what brand and size Cams are recommended for max power(looking for over 300hp) for the 16g, and ones that will be suitable for when i start upgrading to the hx35.
so in a nutshell, is there good Cam setup that can deal with both of these turbos?

thanks mates

 

[gofer]

ok so i have the full 16g setup with FIC 650's 255 walbro, and im wondering what brand and size Cams are recommended for max power(looking for over 300hp) for the 16g, and ones that will be suitable for when i start upgrading to the hx35.
so in a nutshell, is there good Cam setup that can deal with both of these turbos?

thanks mates

I suggest staying away from Brian Crower cams, even though they look appealing because they're cheaper price tag you get what you pay for. Since your still running the stock valve train your limited to how aggressive you can go with your cam setup. With that being said I would look at the HKS 272 (remember you've got to modify the exhaust cam for the 2g CAS), Forced Performance FP2's (you don't have to modify the exhaust cam for the CAS), or if you've got the money get Kelford TX272 grinds.

The HKS 272's, FP2's, or Kelford TX272's are all a good street ran cam that will work with your stock valve train and still get you good top end performance. I'm currently running FP2 grinds and love them, before I installed them my car would fall on its face after 6k and now it pulls all the way to 7.5k.

Hope that helps, or atleast sends you searching in the right direction.

 

[LiquidX]

Along with the above, check out the Delta grinds of either the HK$ or Kelford. Do you have any plans on upgrading the springs and retainers? You should do that for any new cams of higher lift especially for the Kelfords for how agressive they are.

 

[DaisyTuner]

i plan on upgrading whatever needs to be upgraded to make this a safe fun fast setup, for both setups...by the way i forgot to tsay i have a 6 bolt swap, so does that 2g modification on the exhaust Cam still stand?

 

[gofer]

i plan on upgrading whatever needs to be upgraded to make this a safe fun fast setup, for both setups...by the way i forgot to tsay i have a 6 bolt swap, so does that 2g modification on the exhaust Cam still stand?

Only if your running a 1g CAS, did you do a full 6-bolt swap or are you still running a 2g head?

Upgrading your valve train can get pretty expensive depending on which route you take or how much head work you get done while its off your car. To keep it within budget (if you have one) you can run Evo XIII springs/retainers and get them for less than $80.

When your doing your cam install, or possibly pulling the head to upgrade your valve train, you might even consider replacing the timing belt and its associated components if you haven't in the last 60k.

 

[91stocker]

There's nothing wrong with the BC cams. Shitty performance from these cams is probably from lack of degreeing. Most people want to drop em in and go. Heres a quote a while back

"Let me explain a little more .

I started out with a T66 Turbonetics and 3 inch back Exhaust.

On pump gas with stock cams and gears car made around 425HP

On pump gas with BC 280 And Fidanza gears after 2-3 hours of cam adjustments and tuning made around 485HP about a 60 HP gain .

This is expected because i was going from stock to 280 cams . I honestly expected more gains but that is what it made most of the power gains were made from the cam adjustments . cams straight up did not gain much . seting them to -3 on both had the best gain . ( I never tryed -4 with this set up )

I did run race fuel and retune more boost etc made about 600whp @34-35 Psi Still lower then I would like but still nice power. -3 on cams as well

Over the winter swapped in a GT42R full 4 inch Exhaust same pump gas tune car made about 500HP with spool about 500-800 Rpm later cams were at - 3 still . I moved the cams back to zero just to see if there was a power loss but it did not lose any power maybe like 3-4 HP at most .

I left them at 0 for a while seeing it did not make a difference I then added a meth injection kit added some timing and tuned for the meth but not much of a gain maybe 10-12 HP .
I then decided to try tuning the cam settings I set them right to - 4 on both made a pull and power jumped to about 585HP no tuning changes just cam changes boost did go 1 Psi or so higher but not enough to make that power.

I just feel that BC cams are not correctly se up to run at 0 degrees . Every car is different so your results will vary.

I am know running pump gas with straight meth inj ( 2 14gph nozzles ) its making 640 HP @ 35 Psi almost to my goal of 700HP on pump and Meth "

Ive also seen a 750whp and a 600whp build using BC 280's.

 

[DaisyTuner]

good stuff guys, the more info the better for me to decide, install, and have a better understanding of what im doing!

and responding to gofer:
i did not do the swap myself...i bought the car from a no good redneck who kinda hosed me over and didnt give me much info...all i do kow is its a 6 bolt swap, im pretty sure its a full swap, but is there an indication that can reassure me of this?

once again please understand ive been a VW person my whole life, and now into the much easier and less expensive DSM scene, but im still unfamilar with the swapping and what means what.

thanks for the help

 

[gofer]

good stuff guys, the more info the better for me to decide, install, and have a better understanding of what im doing!

and responding to gofer:
i did not do the swap myself...i bought the car from a no good redneck who kinda hosed me over and didnt give me much info...all i do kow is its a 6 bolt swap, im pretty sure its a full swap, but is there an indication that can reassure me of this?

once again please understand ive been a VW person my whole life, and now into the much easier and less expensive DSM scene, but im still unfamilar with the swapping and what means what.

thanks for the help

Look for the 1g CAS, it can be either of these three...
89 - 90 :

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91 - 92:

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93 - 94:

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and also check the intake manifold, If it looks like this one then its probably a 6-bolt head...

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[cory51191]

Only if your running a 1g CAS, did you do a full 6-bolt swap or are you still running a 2g head?

Upgrading your valve train can get pretty expensive depending on which route you take or how much head work you get done while its off your car. To keep it within budget (if you have one) you can run Evo XIII springs/retainers and get them for less than $80.

When your doing your cam install, or possibly pulling the head to upgrade your valve train, you might even consider replacing the timing belt and its associated components if you haven't in the last 60k.

Don't Evo8's come stock with Beehive springs? I could be wrong but I read that in a few places on tuners.

 

[gofer]

Don't Evo8's come stock with Beehive springs? I could be wrong but I read that in a few places on tuners.

Its not just Evo VIII valve springs either. I did a bit of part number research and the Evo VIII/IX valve springs/retainers/seats/locks all use the same part number and they ARE beehives. People on the Evo forums are giving them away too, even my local Mitsu dealership. They do valve spring swaps and keep the OEM Evo valve springs, atleast thats the case down here in SD.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

I have been riding with the Delta HKS272s for 1100miles on my recent build and I like them. I do have to have my idle at 1200 to keep me happy, I don't really like a car that's about to turn off at idle.

 

[DaisyTuner]

Look for the 1g CAS, it can be either of these three...
89 - 90 :

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91 - 92:

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93 - 94:

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and also check the intake manifold, If it looks like this one then its probably a 6-bolt head...

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i dont have an intake mani or any CAS that look like the ones you have pictured...so i dont really knwo what that means...6bolt block and 7 bolt head?! inform me!! and what does this mean for my cam situation.

if i had an accessible camera to snap some pics i would but i do not have one at the moment. VC says 16 v DOHC 2000.

 

[gofer]

i dont have an intake mani or any CAS that look like the ones you have pictured...so i dont really knwo what that means...6bolt block and 7 bolt head?! inform me!! and what does this mean for my cam situation.

if i had an accessible camera to snap some pics i would but i do not have one at the moment. VC says 16 v DOHC 2000.

I hate to say it but what proof do you have of the engine being a 6-bolt? Your car is a '95 which means that from the factory the CAS is under the intake cam. If you do a 6-bolt swap, even if your running a 2g head, you still need to run a 1g CAS. This is what a '95 7-bolt would look like, see how theres no CAS?

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I have a Galant VR-4 valve cover on my car, obviously my cars not a Galant VR-4 though. You can't go off the VC to determine what motor is in your car, especially on these motors. The VC you're describing is a 2g though...

 

[XyoungmurdaX]

HKS 272's

 

[Demon33]

ok so i have the full 16g setup with FIC 650's 255 walbro, and im wondering what brand and size Cams are recommended for max power(looking for over 300hp) for the 16g, and ones that will be suitable for when i start upgrading to the hx35.
so in a nutshell, is there good Cam setup that can deal with both of these turbos?

thanks mates

I have and recommend HKS 264/272 combo. I also have a very similar setup as you- evo3 16g and FIC 650's. Other upgrades include 3" turbo back, UICP, methanol injection and ecmlink.

At 27 PSI, ecmlink estimates 373 AWHP and 330 ft-lb torque on 91 octane and a small shot of 50/50 methanol mix. Your goal of 300 HP is very attainable using 264/272 or even 264/264 cams. I chose the 264/272 combo for is excellent idle, increased midrange and good top-end to match the flow characteristics of the evo3 16g with some room to grow. With these cams, I think the evo3 16g's airflow begins to taper off above 6k rpm, but I think the HX35 can push these cams to their full potential. If you're willing to sacrifice some low-end and midrange torque for the highest top-end, the 272/272 combo would be a good choice while still utilizing the stock head.

 

[Gamble97]

I run a fp1/fp2 combo and love them. No loss of low end tq and pulls up top. I'm actually looking to change my setup for something a little different since I want more top end. Being on a 16g you can't ask for too much top end since the power will drop off.

 

[tsi87889095]

Didn't want to start a new thread so i thought i would jump in on this one. I have hks 272s and I'm rebuilding the head right now. I have ferrea valve springs and retainers I'm putting in with stock valves. I'm running a evo3 16g and 550 injectors. Stock exhaust for now with 2g exhaust manifold and planning on installing a front mount intercooler and plumbing. Do you think i can put the 272s in and have a decent running car or should i wait till i have some more bolt ons and a way to tune it. I have a palm that is suppose to have the program to read codes but when i purchased it the program had gotten deleted so i need to get it installed and then i can monitor whats going on a little better. Thanks for the advice.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

You need upgraded valve springs to run the kelford 272 cam.

Not all beehives are created equal. Beehive is a design not a type. The evo springs are only slightly better than stock DSM springs. The are actually softer, however the beehive design and much much lighter retainer allows them to keep the bigger cams and higher RPMs under control a little better. They are still very weak compared to the FP beehive or kiggly beehive.

BC280s area pretty darn good cam. Though I have to say I have tuned dozens of BC272 cars and have yet to be impressed. HKS 272 are tried and true and every time I think I've decided they are out-dated and not worth using anymore, I get a car show up for a tune that makes incredible power on them. They are a small cam but somehow get the job done very well. FP2s are probably the best drop-in compatible top end cam. 272s are a little better all around.

also the CAS is on the intake cam.

 

[DaisyTuner]

I hate to say it but what proof do you have of the engine being a 6-bolt? Your car is a '95 which means that from the factory the CAS is under the intake cam. If you do a 6-bolt swap, even if your running a 2g head, you still need to run a 1g CAS. This is what a '95 7-bolt would look like, see how theres no CAS?

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I have a Galant VR-4 valve cover on my car, obviously my cars not a Galant VR-4 though. You can't go off the VC to determine what motor is in your car, especially on these motors. The VC you're describing is a 2g though...

well my ignition coil i just baught was from a 91 and the pattern and coil works perfect...but i do have the setup in the pic you have posted. so is that 7 bolt head, 6 bolt block??

 

[Chaosweaver]

No, you have a 7 bolt engine. If you had a 6 bolt block, you need to run a 1G CAS even with a 7 bolt head.

 

[DaisyTuner]

see the thing is that i have a sensor right there where the CAS should be for a 6 bolt. so it looks like a 7 bolt head, but in the picture above theres no sensor there. ill see if i can get a pic of my engine bay and let you guys tell me whats up.

 

[Chaosweaver]

see the thing is that i have a sensor right there where the CAS should be for a 6 bolt. so it looks like a 7 bolt head, but in the picture above theres no sensor there. ill see if i can get a pic of my engine bay and let you guys tell me whats up.

What? First you said there wasn't a CAS, now there is... Post up the pic asap man , we'll be able to tell you.

 

[DaisyTuner]

well im not exactly sure what the CAS should look like...if its that cylinder thing with the sensor attached...i dont have that...but i DO have a sensor bolted onto the block where the CAS should be.......so basically i have that black missing space there, but a bolted up sensor(not sure if its CAS) right below the black circle posted on the 7 block pic.

 

[gofer]

well im not exactly sure what the CAS should look like...if its that cylinder thing with the sensor attached...i dont have that...but i DO have a sensor bolted onto the block where the CAS should be.......so basically i have that black missing space there, but a bolted up sensor(not sure if its CAS) right below the black circle posted on the 7 block pic.

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... just kidding. But seriously, whatever your describing is worthless unless you post a picture of it.

 

[DaisyTuner]

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this one shows the sensor im talking about

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this is the sensor plugs into...on the passenger side under another attachment, near upper ic pipe...not the upper device, the lower one in center of pic

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