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sower23

15+ Year Contributor
48
0
Sep 17, 2005
Muskegon, Michigan
I am looking at some cams for a ported head and i have crower springs and titanium retainers. Also i have a piggy back that does everything a aem stand alone does (almost everything). Does anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be appreciated.
 
By looking at the mods in your profile HKS 272's would be ideal. Of course you can go for the more expensive FP2's but you won't hardly notice any gains from it.
 
What about the FFWD regrinds? Have any of you guys heard anything about those.
 
Yes I have. And I have nothing against running a reground camshaft. We used to use them where I worked in Iowa at our machine shop and never had one fail once. I would get the DKS2 cams. I am actually thinking of getting a set myself for cost effective reasons. Don't let people bash on what they don't know about or haven't tried.
 
It is a pretty good price, I just don't know how bad the idle will be with those. Do you think with proper tuning, it would run smoothly?
 
Comp 200's if your thinking about a 272 type of cam. Idle like stock and pull very good on the top end. Also they will work with your stock springs and retainers. Drop them in and your all set.
 
I ran 272's in my first DSM I have and had no idle problems with it. Had the idle tuned up to 850 rpms and it idled nice and smooth even without balance shafts.
 
I guess that that would be the cheap way to go. Are you talking about the 101200 comp cams and have you used them?
 
HKS if you've got the funds. Buddy club or any regrinds will give you a bang for your buck. I've heard good things about the 264/272 combo.
 
sower23 said:
I guess that that would be the cheap way to go. Are you talking about the 101200 comp cams and have you used them?

Yes im talking about the comp 101200's. I have them in the car and i love them. Only thing i dont like is they really dont lump :( I wish they did. But good for the sleeper status ROFL

Idle is set to factory 750 and it purrs like a kitten:thumb:
 
95bLaCkGsTuRbO said:
By looking at the mods in your profile HKS 272's would be ideal. Of course you can go for the more expensive FP2's but you won't hardly notice any gains from it.
WTF FP2s are Comp grinds that FP has tweeked. I bought my set of FP2Xs and Manley performance springs all for under the price of just the 272s.

One will probably not know the difference between the two sets. but the price. Get the FP2Xs and Manley springs. Sell the crower springs. As they won't have the spring rates needed to handle any of these grinds over 8000 rpms. The 2Xs have quite a bit higher lift and higher ramp rate (to broaden the power band). You'll be able to rev to 8500 all day long... and save money in the process.
 
FP2x cams can be gotten through Forced Performance. And to those that are saying there isn't a difference between the 272 cams and the FP2 cams, you are mistaken. FP2 cams have more HP up top, but give up some bottom end to the 272s. There's a graph somewhere on here where they did back to back tests.

IIRC the FP2s started making more power after 6,000rpm than the 272s...By 8500rpm it was about 20whp difference. Before 6,000rpm, the 272s were the better cam.
 
Dark_Horse said:
FP2x cams can be gotten through Forced Performance. And to those that are saying there isn't a difference between the 272 cams and the FP2 cams, you are mistaken. FP2 cams have more HP up top, but give up some bottom end to the 272s. There's a graph somewhere on here where they did back to back tests.

IIRC the FP2s started making more power after 6,000rpm than the 272s...By 8500rpm it was about 20whp difference. Before 6,000rpm, the 272s were the better cam.


To summarize what you are saying, if you want a DD sleeper, then go with the 272. If you want a good quarter mile, go with the FP2s. Is this correct?

d
 
It all depends on what you want. Both are good cams, but as far as I'm concerned, the HKS cams aren't worth the added $200 over the FP2 cams.

Both cams idle just fine, the HKS just has more low end. Where as the FP has more top end...Like I said, it all depends on what you want. If you are a road racer, then the HKS is probably a better choice since you need more low end pull when stomping on the gas out of turn 3. Where the FP is a great choice for drag since it's all about top end.

Oh, and the website is www.forcedperformance.net
 
bane3d said:
To summarize what you are saying, if you want a DD sleeper, then go with the 272. If you want a good quarter mile, go with the FP2s. Is this correct?

d

Somewhat... If you want a daily driver with 20whp less:thumb: . But yes, it is slightly more "meaty" down low as compared to the FP2s. But both of these cams are designed for highend power where more gains cam be made anyway. It just seams that the FP2s do a better job with the gains. If you want more midrange then you probably should be looking at the HKS 264s. And the FP1 grind is comparable to those and are way cheaper too.

Here's what i wrote recently about power and duration. It might help you decide. . .

"more lift = more air. peroid.

As for the duration: it changes your power band mostly. higher duration means more power up top less down low...BUT, here's the absolute basics of how it works:

Duration causes the volumetric efficiency to change through out the rpm range. Volumetric efficiency is simply the amount of air that actually enters the cylinder divided by the amount of air that theoretically should go in the cylinder. Theoretically, 2.0 liters of air should enter our 4G63s at one complete crank rotation. However, only 40%, 60%, 90% actually get into the block. As you can see the more air we get in the more power we can make at any give power stroke. Volumetric efficiency is based on lift, number of valves, exhaust, turbine housing/wheel, intake mani, valve size, and on and on. Lower duration gives you high VE (volumetric efficiency) at lower rpms. Higher duration gives you high VE (volumetric efficiency) at higher rpms. The more you rev, the more air your pumping in and out of the engine per unit time. This translates to a pound per minute figure. The more lbs/min you have the more power you create. This is in part why the little 1.3 liter RX8 engine is able to generate over 200 horsepower or 900cc bike engines can create 90-100 horsepower.

So you have more flow from revving and add cam duration that gives you the most VE you can get with your setup, and you have substancially more power without increasing lift or porting or adding more valves or enlarging valves."​

Copying and pasting that just saved me alot of typingLOL .

I suggest the FP2Xs. Since it has high ramp rates, it restores the low end to better than the HKS 272s and brings out the powerband up top even farther up the rev range (its all about revving), and it has more lift than the FP2s or the HKS 272s. A set of Manley springs from SBR and these cams work well together and have proven themselves in my setup.
 
In an email I got from Forced Performance, they said that Crower springs/retainers "may" be adequate in most cases to run FP2x cams.

Take that "may" for what it's worth. IMO it's better to get a dual spring setup than to risk destroying your valvetrain.
 
Dark_Horse said:
In an email I got from Forced Performance, they said that Crower springs/retainers "may" be adequate in most cases to run FP2x cams.

Take that "may" for what it's worth. IMO it's better to get a dual spring setup than to risk destroying your valvetrain.

Manley > Crower. We're talking about Manley springs here. No destruction of my valvetrain for many, many miles now. If there were a problem, I certainly would have encountered it by now.

Straight from Mike at Slowboy:

This entire year, we have run comp 101400's [very similar grind as FP2X<= my insert] on both SBR cars, shifted at 9k in my car, and a little over 10k in Nate's car with no issues with Manley S&R kit. Nate did miss a shift once, data recorded 11.5k and Nate did tap a few valves. Not certain if dual springs would have prevented or not...

8500 is a breeze!

MGH

Crower is not much better than stockers and shimmed stocker are better than unshimmed Crowers. Shep ran to 10,000 rpms on shimmed stockers for the longest time with, no doubt, a more aggresive grind than the FP2X grind. And without a doubt, the Manleys are better than stockers. even shimmed stockers.

Bank on my car. I took the advice and it works fantastic.

Yes! don't get Crowers for this grind. Get Manley's or the FP springs. Manley'sa re more cost effective.
 
FFWD makes DKS 272's... that would work great with your setup. They perform the same as HKS, but at a fraction of the cost. Yes they are re-grinds, but re-grinds are quite durable. I think this would be a smart choice.
 
I have DKS2`s I love them and after about 1500 miles no signs of abnormal wear or any bs that you might hear, good idle awsome top end increase and theyre cheaper, they were def a good buy.
Ryan
 
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