What Cams?

[Johnny123]

Im planning on boring my block 30. over minimum, and cutting the head .020, also porting and a 3 angle valve job. im tring to get a real good low to mid range with a decent top end. What cams would be best for what im going for? Also would this be ok if later on down the road i send my turbo off and get it ported to fit a 16g wheel in it?

 

[jlr2196]

I will say it one more time, TORQUE IS KING, stock cams will be more than adequate.
As you upgrade your car to a 16G, FMIC, tunining devices you will be into the 12's.
I personally feel that 12's is more than adequate for a daily driver and 90% of the people out there are not that fast. A true 12 second car is VERY quick. A stock 4g63 with STOCK cams, 16g, FMIC and tuning that runs in the 12's will beat a bigger cammed, bigger turbo motor in a block to block (I said block to block, not 30 to 120) street match everytime because the power comes on quicker. Bigger cammed motors and turbo are fast at the track where they sit at the light and pull up the rpms to launch and have traction or out on the freeway from a 50 roll up to 150. Sorry that doesn't work on the street, plus they do not have the degree of reliability that you would have. Yes there are cars that run 10's and are DD but they are far and few between and cost alot of money to do so but I have yet to go anywhere and see 10 second DD at every stop light. Although you would think so by the way people talk on the net.

 

[Johnny123]

+1

The duration is a lot longer on the 272's.... means it works efficiently at higher rpm's

...get the same lift with higher air velocity (and lower emissions) at lower rpm with 264's

You'll have more torque with stock

So your saying ill get the most torque at low rpms with the stock cams?

What are the specs for the stock cams?

lift and duration...if i want more torque..id want higher lift and shorter duration right?

I will say it one more time, TORQUE IS KING, stock cams will be more than adequate.
As you upgrade your car to a 16G, FMIC, tunining devices you will be into the 12's.
I personally feel that 12's is more than adequate for a daily driver and 90% of the people out there are not that fast. A true 12 second car is VERY quick. A stock 4g63 with STOCK cams, 16g, FMIC and tuning that runs in the 12's will beat a bigger cammed, bigger turbo motor in a block to block (I said block to block, not 30 to 120) street match everytime because the power comes on quicker. Bigger cammed motors and turbo are fast at the track where they sit at the light and pull up the rpms to launch and have traction or out on the freeway from a 50 roll up to 150. Sorry that doesn't work on the street, plus they do not have the degree of reliability that you would have. Yes there are cars that run 10's and are DD but they are far and few between and cost alot of money to do so but I have yet to go anywhere and see 10 second DD at every stop light. Although you would think so by the way people talk on the net.

Ok, i see what your saying..i just talked to my friend and he gave me some advice on how the cams actually work so im starting to understand more. with 130,000 miles on the car would the stock cams be safe to still reuse?

AMSPerformance.com

I found this.

 

[Freerevving]

So your saying ill get the most torque at low rpms with the stock cams?

yes, any stock cam but especially 92-94 cams... well, it's really what's marked on the cams (can't remember) I think the A's or O's not sure... People say they're all the same but not exactly... very slight differences. I have a friend up in Dallas with his own DSM tuner shop and he's measured new cams... I'll have to ask him again... come to think of it I think he said 90 cams are the ones that have some differences... shiit not sure

But I think what you're looking for is a power boost... 264's will pick up the top end nicely... stock cams hit a wall at around 6000

once you start experimenting your preferences will probably change

AMSPerformance.com

I found this.

great link... what you have to remember about those peak torque numbers is that they are higher up in the rpm's... where they are becoming horsepower
make sure you read the comments about off-boost power

 

[Johnny123]

great link... what you have to remember about those peak torque numbers is that they are higher up in the rpm's... where they are becoming horsepower
make sure you read the comments about off-boost power

What exactly is "Off-Boost Power"

 

[turboglenn]

I run the 264/272 combo and love it. I didn't lose any spool time or bottom end power and it definitely picked up all through the mid range and top end. AS far as good bottom end i think stock cams would be your best bet there. All the cams produced are designed to increase the upper RPM HP. Stock cams were the only ones designed with low end grunt adn good driveability in mind. Many people have cleared over 400HP on stock casm as well so they won't e holding you back too much.

 

[Freerevving]

I run the 264/272 combo and love it. I didn't lose any spool time or bottom end power and it definitely picked up all through the mid range and top end. AS far as good bottom end i think stock cams would be your best bet there. All the cams produced are designed to increase the upper RPM HP. Stock cams were the only ones designed with low end grunt adn good driveability in mind. Many people have cleared over 400HP on stock casm as well so they won't e holding you back too much.

wow good description... it explains a lot

Now I want to swap my exhaust cam to 272, but they're damn near impossible to find single used... it's amazing there is such a difference between that combo and 272's,

 

[jlr2196]

I have over 180,000 miles on my stock cams and I have not read about to many people flattening out a cam lobe on a set of stock cams with alot of miles. I do not feel 130,000 miles is going to be a problem. Perhaps have a machine shop check your stock spring pressures just to be sure they are in spec. That is all I have done with mine springs and again my springs and cams have over 180,000 miles. Of course I shift at 6200 rpm and have never taken it over 6600.
"Off Boost Power" is exactly that, the power you have without boost, a good torquey motor helps out alot in that department. The more torque you have the less throttle you will need to cruise around the streets or pull up hills without spooling up the turbo (or helps keep the boost down because you have more usable power down low)!!! Equals better MPG and reliablilty.

 

[Johnny123]

Alright, sorry I've been off this thread for a while but I did the rebuild at 134K stuck with the stock cams, got the EVO III Big 16 Ported o2 housing, and full 3" exhaust (really helped in top end) with test pipe. Bored the cylinder's .20 over and brought compression up to 8.5:1. Still running the stock bcs. FP 255 LPH fuel pump and stock regulator. had a few issues with that but resolved it. I got nice low end and good mid to high end. I still want to get some Cams but I'm going to go with some evo VIII injectors and a datalogger and tuning device before i do. probably go with the 264/264 set-up. Thanks again guys.