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What cams for automatic ?

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GDNF2ET

20+ Year Contributor
586
11
Feb 12, 2003
VA Beach, Virginia
I've searched and found nothing that points to one cam more than another.....What are your thoughts ?
 
it is really no different then picking cams for a manual car. From looking at your mod list, I'd say consentrate on your tranny mods first. (Shift Kit, Stall) and then look at your goals, then that will help us help you determain what cams are best. Really either way though, you will want to look for some 272/272 cams. I recomment either DKS or Brian Crower b/c they are only $315-$350 for the set and are of good quality. I am an Auto and I'm going with the BCrower 272s and their spring kit.

http://www.briancrower.com/makes/mitsubishi/4g63.shtml
or
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/cams.shtml
 
My tranny has the IPT rebuild kit, shift kit and restalled converter...Why do you like the 272/272 cams ? Thanx for the reply..That looks like a great deal on the DKS cams...Does anyone have aftermarket cams in their auto/dsm now that can share some knowledge ?
 
I had HKS 272/272 in my 98 A/T. The car's idle was rough and a bit difficult to control. I didn't really notice too much low-end difference, but I never got the chance to install any larger of a turbo than a B16g. The top-end gains were significant. I also had a 4000 high-stall converter, so I was able to break-torque full boost while staging.
Personally, I like the FFWD cams as in the link above. I may even sell my HKS' and buy FFWDs' eventually.
There was a cams test done by one of the vendors. A quick search will turn it up.
 
If we can get more post like 98Talon tsi, someone who is running aftermarket cams in an automatic, this could be a very useful thread for us all..Lets keep the info coming...:thumb:
 
GDNF2ET said:
If we can get more post like 98Talon tsi, someone who is running aftermarket cams in an automatic, this could be a very useful thread for us all..Lets keep the info coming...:thumb:
I "was" running these cams ;)
I've tried so many different part combinations already, trying to see what worked for me, what I liked, didn't like, etc.. I had the 272s along with solid motor mounts, stiff suspension, old 1G Throttle body and the worst part..FWD. The bottom line is how comfortable you are with your car.
I'm currently running 1G MT cams...no complaints.
Mike
 
Anyone else with aftermarket cams and an automatic ?
 
I run Web Cams 276/256 on a s16g turbo. This was one of the best mods I did on my auto. Perfect size cams for a 16g turbo IMO.
 
Personally in my auto I have 101100 Comp Cams. They are GREAT!!! They still chop a little, but I dont have a problem with my idel what so ever.
 
I tried a few different things as well...

(on my OE 7-bolt Evo3 powered 2.0L, AT AWD)
OE MT cams ("A" and "D" cams)
-Idled like stock, otherwise not much improvement over the OE AT cams on the butt-o-meter. Slightly improved top end. -16-18 vaccum.

-THEN-

(6-bolt FFWD 2.3L Storker, TD06-20G powered AT AWD)
and DKS 264/272 + Crower Spring/Retainer kit at the same time
-Some what more "lumpy" then stock, just not as "advertising" as the 272/272 combo at idle (compared to my buddy's 2.0 2G, running the 272/272). Spool time was drastically reduced (probably more due to the motor vs the cams though). DRASTIC improvement in mid/top end. -18-20 vaccum. :D :D :D

I know my scenario won't help too much, since I changed a whole bunch of things around at the same time... All I know is that I'm twisting U-Joints now :D :D
 
^

heh twisting ujoints huh.. damn


i've also been tossing up the idea of going with a set of cams. but not sure what i want ha. almost went the cheapo route over the weekend installing a set of 1g cams but i didnt get around to it.
 
I’m auto with an IPT valve body and 4k converter, and just installed HKS 272’s and 3g lifters in the gsx a few weeks ago. I didn’t really lose any low-end performance, but they made a huge difference in my mid-range and top-end power. The engine sounds awesome at idle, and pulls harder then ever. I went to Island Dragway last Sunday for a few tuning runs. At 20psi, it ran 12.3 @114mph the first run, and 12.0 @115mph after a minor tune adjustment. If we had time for one more run it would have been in the eleven’s easily. I don’t have any runability issues, as long as I keep the idle set at 800-850rpm’s. Any lower then 800rpm, and it will occasionally stumble a bit when coming to a quick stop. However if your just hanging out in a parking lot, the car will sound awesome idling at 700-750rpm’s :thumb:
 
what is the difference between the 272's and the 264 cams??? and i keep hearing about these 3G lifters, what make these better???
 
what is the difference between the 272's and the 264 cams??? and i keep hearing about these 3G lifters, what make these better???

272 are what they call a larger cam as they have a longer duration compared to the 264's. This mean the valve is open longer, which obviously will increase the amount of air that can enter the motor, in turn making more power. Becasue of this increased duration you also lose abit on the bottom end becasue there is more time when both valves are open (overlap). The larger the cam, the worse the bottom end, but the better gains in the top end. There are certain cam profiles that are designed to help this by increasing the ramp rate as well but are recommend/required to have aftermarket springs (the X series of cams from forced performance, which I run).

3g lifters refers to the 3rd generation of lifter design, not as in lifters from a 3g (2000+ eclipse) 1st gen lifters in the 1g cars are the worst for lifter tick as the oiling holes are small & clog easily. with the 2nd revision for the 2g cars they openind up the top port which help alot with lifter tick & then I believe sometime for the 98 build year they switched to the 3rd revision that also has a larger hole on the side which are the most resistant to lifter tick. Other then sounding like a diesel when you start the car, lifter tick is also bad as it can get loud enough to be picked up by the knock sensor, giving you false knock (reducing performance)
 
im getting the BC 280 cams w/ springs and retainers.

but im also making a electronic shifter for my car so i could use full effects of the cams and get the full power out of my car.
 
I also just order the BC 280s ,I hope they Lope like H###:sneaky:
Will be using Ostrich for engine controle and done mods to the tranny already.
Will also be putting on a Holset HX35 so I will post when i get it all done .
Going to put the cams and springs in first and so how it runs .:thumb:

I have read a lot of thread on this subject about the cams but no body has realy posted how they really work so I would assume that they work so good that they Warped out to a new universe once they got spooled .:confused:
 
wow thanks. so if i wanted more power, but to keep it at more of a street level, the 264's should be good right??? i mean are they bad cams
 
I have FP3's on a 2 liter with gt35r but the car doesn't run yet, hopefully I will be able to report how they work in 2 weeks


Also top end will be hard to judge top end capabilities accurately due to stock intake manifold.
 
I had web cams 546/547 and they worked well for me .They did not lope at idle and was pretty smooth.Had about 17 in. of vac at idle .
There is a post in the engine section talking about the 264's and looks like about the same (some one correct me if wrong) with about 210 duration@
.039 ver 206 @ .050 for the Web's ,at .039 lift the web's would be more duration also so I would say about the same also have about the same lift. And I think they would be a good choice for a car at street level like you wont .You might post in the other sections to see what people with them have to say about them as I'am sure most don't look in this section .

The Web's aleast say on there site no fuel mods required .So I would presume the same for the 264's .This would make them easy to tune if any would be needed .

For those interested I got the BC 280's in and it sound realy "BADDD"
as it realy lopes even at the 1000 rpm idle I have it set at.:sneaky:
Like the BC web site states "Ecu mod recomended" as I had to incresse the idle rpm, jack with the mas comp table a little on the lower Hz (DUH) and do a little on the idle fuel cut table .
But so far I'am pleased with them ,Haven't done any real pulls on it so far or any logging of airflow but the butt dyno says all is well .:D
Low power seams about the same to me but I have so lillte with a short runner manny it's hard to tell .Idle vac is 8 to 10 and have less vac at cruzing also .
Glad I have a restalld converter also .
 
auto shit is heavy, and the longer gearing will need a more torqey cam. for a 4500 stall you want a lot of torque in that area. I wouldn't even look at anything other than an HKS/DKS. they are the most torquey cams you'll find in that respect and don't really sacrifice any power below 7000
 
auto shit is heavy, and the longer gearing will need a more torqey cam. for a 4500 stall you want a lot of torque in that area. I wouldn't even look at anything other than an HKS/DKS. they are the most torquey cams you'll find in that respect and don't really sacrifice any power below 7000

What turbo do you have, and was that 475 on pump or race?
 
I noticed no low end loss and significant high end gain on BC 272s. My auto always dyno'd almost 20% more torque than hp and had great pull down low, so I can afford to lose some in any case.
 
I haven't dyno'd for a couple years since when I was near stock at 15psi. Back then I always dyno'd around 242whp 270 tq, sometimes a wider range of hp vs tq. Nowadays I have significantly more power but no dyno runs yet. Bigger turbo going on very soon, then will dyno again.
 
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