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What brand/weight oil are you running?

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TheFallenTSI97

Proven Member
80
0
Mar 23, 2013
Huntsville, Alabama
This has probably been covered to death but I'm apparently and idiot when it comes to using the search. I tried several different key words and search options but couldn't find the information I'm looking for. So please don't kill me :confused:

I'm mainly asking the people that are pushing 500+whp on their car with large frame turbo, forged internals, and worked heads. I want to know what brand/viscosity oil you guys are using on your builds. I had been using Royal Purple on the previous setup. But with the new setup I want to ensure prolonged life of my turbo and engine. I considered running Rotella synthetic 5w-40 as it's made to support the high PSI and high temps of a turbo diesel. But at the same time I wasn't sure if that would be a little too "thick" for my car. Any input is greatly appreciated. If there is a thread on this exact topic please link me. I apologize again if I'm ressurecting a dead horse to beat it again.
 
Valvoline VR1, AMSoil dominator, Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs racing oil are the only brands I would use. As far as what weight to use depends on a few things: How cold it is, bearing clearances, piston-to-wall, and modified oiling systems. I like to run 10w30 in the winter & 15w50-20w50 in the summer. A built motor with larger tolerances require thicker oil. The '10w' in 10w30, is just the cold starting viscosity rating. Then, once a certain oil temp is achieved. Its 30-weight oil.
 
Curious why did you decide to mix synthetic and conventional oil?

I personally run Rotella T6 in my Subaru, and once the Tsi gets back on the road it'll have Joe Gibbs BR30 for break in and be ran with T6 after.
 
I had a phone convo with the guy that did the tec write-up on the Brad Penn and he said that the jelling problem occurs when the mixture of there oil and E-85 sits for a period of time. I stated that my car is a dd and gets the oil changed every 3,000 miles and I hadn't seen any ill effects. He said I should keep running it as long as I continue to do so. He said if you store your car for a period of time with E-85 ie winter, thats when more than likely you'll run into jelling. Most know that weight depends on specs of your motor, but he said 20w-50 was there best seller.
 
I wasn't sure but I may not use that for break in. I haven't decided I know Royal Purple makes a break in oil that is high in Zinc but I know it's going to be super expensive for something that is going to just be drained within 100-200 miles or so
 
Amsoil Dominator 15w50. If I was daily driving, then i would use Amsoil Dominator 10w30. Amsoil Dominator engine oil is designed to handle harmful side affects of alcohol fuels like E85. WIX oil filter.
 
FYI AMSOIL Sells a break in oil. I run 0-30 winter and 10-40 or 20-50 in the race car. For breaking in a rebuild my mechanic friend wants me to run a break in oil or non synthetic to seat the rings. New cars come with synthetic, we debate it all the time and I am a AMSOIL delear and dont really know whats best for a new motor :( I run the break in oil now for the first few hours.
 
Stock rebuilt bottom end- AMSOil Z-Rod 10w-30. I live in Indiana and we just had our first snow along with a sub 20 degree day. After sitting all day outside the car fired right up. AMSOil does seem to increase oil pressure some as well.
 
2.3L stroker, forged bottom end, Speed Pro rod bearings, ACL main bearings:
Break-in oil: Driven Racing Oil 5W-30 BR high zinc, non-detergent
Winter oil: Driven Racing Oil 5W-20 FR20 high zinc, non-detergent
Summer oil: Driven Racing Oil 10W-30 HR-4 high-zinc, non-detergent
 
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