The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Oil restrictors for 60 trim? What are you running?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

LunarEclips

15+ Year Contributor
191
2
Feb 27, 2006
Corona, California
I just got my G60 trim in and im wondering what kind of oil inlet restrictors people are running. I see some people running none at all and just feeding from the oil filter housing and others running from the head and so on. And others running oil restrictos. Can i get some input from people running a 60 trim please??? thx ahead of time. =)
 
any one else?? i saw alot of input on the forums for different setups?? This includes 50 trim 60-1 and so on as well. I just want to make sure i have no problems as far as oil pressure to the turbo.
 
Rule #1, your oil drain must be large enough to handle the volume of oil the turbo is receiving. This doesn't include many of the -10AN drain kits available today which are smaller than our stock drains.

Rule #2, you should check your oil pressure at the source before giving this turbo hell....this is the only way you'll know if a restrictor is necessary, and what size restrictor would be needed.
 
jusmx is dead on, no point in restricting what might be "just enough" oil to tart with and oil drain is VITAL. Instead of the pretty -10 stuff i used a garrett outlet, cut the stock return off a few inches short of the OEM turbo and fit them together with high temp rubber hose, not only was it cheap, but larger than the pretty pieces that cost $$'s

I'm not sure if you're talking about a journal bearing turbo (can't think of what the "G60" is right now (just got up) but i run my 57 trim from the head using part of an old 14b supply line thta i compression coupled a 4an line to and feed without restriction ( but i'm journal bearing) mine has been this way for 10 years and an easy 120k miles and although my coimpressor wheel is beat to hell from years of abuse and a filter loss this past winter the bearings and seals are in perfect shape after all thse years
 
The -10 SS drain is exactly what I got. So -4an SS line from the head should be fine without a restrictor inline oil filter? And what drain should I be using if the -10 is not sufficient enough? BTW I'm using a journal bearing 60 trim g60 turbo.
 
I have FP3160 which is a Garrett 60 trim journal bearing tubo. Oil supply is FP -4an from filter housing to turbo with an inline FP oil filter. Drain pipe is FP blue hose which I think is equal to -10an. Oil pressure at idle around 20psi and around 80+psi above 5K rpm. My understanding is that journal bearing needs to be lubricated from filter housing and ball bearing from the head. Not sure if FP inline filter (red color filter designed for journal bearing turbos) acts as a resrtictor in any way. If you need an oil supply/drain parts for your turbo, get it from ForcedPerformance, they will answer all of your questions and get you the right product.
 
My understanding is that journal bearing needs to be lubricated from filter housing and ball bearing from the head.
Not always the case....look at the 14B's on 1G DSM's and the 16G's on Evo IV-IX's.

Each turbo has it's own specific oiling requirements.

Not sure if FP inline filter (red color filter designed for journal bearing turbos) acts as a resrtictor in any way.
The FP filter has a .100" orifice, so being that your -4AN line is 4/16" (1/4") or .250", the filter is definitely acting as a restrictor.
 
Not always the case....look at the 14B's on 1G DSM's and the 16G's on Evo IV-IX's.

Each turbo has it's own specific oiling requirements.


The FP filter has a .100" orifice, so being that your -4AN line is 4/16" (1/4") or .250", the filter is definitely acting as a restrictor.

Ok, so let me get this strait. Im supposed to get oil pressure ratings of the turbo first and then determine where to go from there? How do i do this? Let me put out a lil more info for easier decision. I have a -4an oil line as of right now coming from the OFH. No oil filter restrictor. -10an SS oil drain. Also what gauge is the stock drain pipe?

BTW: im running a stock motor for now. planning on running about 24psi tops...most likely in the 16-20 until i get bigger injectors to support my turbo.
 
What is your oil pressure at idle, 2k, 4k, 6k? I assume you have an oil pressure gauge.
When I was buying FP3160 I was told that an inline oil filter is not needed as an oil inlet of the turbo acts as a restrictor. I got oil filter installed just for extra protection.
You can try installing just the -4an oil line w/o any filters/restrictors and run it from OFH. If you detect no smoke from your tailpipe after driving your car and vary rpm in all ranges, you are ok. If you detect smoke, install an inline oil filter like red fp.

Good luck!
 
Ok, so let me get this strait. Im supposed to get oil pressure ratings of the turbo first and then determine where to go from there?
If you want the turbo to live, yes.
How do i do this?
Put the turbo on the car, then tee a temporary oil pressure gauge setup into the supply line. Use restriction as necessary.
I have a -4an oil line as of right now coming from the OFH. No oil filter restrictor. -10an SS oil drain.
That's a huge oil supply line with a smallish oil drain. Your turbo is going to see whatever pressure the oil pump is dishing out since it will be tapped into a source very close to the pump.
Also what gauge is the stock drain pipe?
Much bigger than -10AN, and 1G stock turbos are fed from the head with a restrictor in the line:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...turbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-too-small.html
BTW: im running a stock motor for now. planning on running about 24psi tops...most likely in the 16-20 until i get bigger injectors to support my turbo.
Stock motors help because the balance shafts effectively lower oil pressure a bit, but some healthy stock engines can still make over 80psi of oil pressure which is fatal for some turbos.
 
Newb question: how could a high oil pressure kill a journal bearing turbo and what components get damaged? I can understand too much oil not being able to drain fast enough causing oil to leak through oil seals and making a mess, but killing a turbo sounds hard to beleive.
 
Seems to me if you tee'd into the turbo feed line you wouldn't be getting an accurate oil pressure as most of the oil runs right through to the oil pan, seems to me you would want to run the oil pressure straight to the gauge and deadhead it to get an accurate oil pressure.
 
Newb question: how could a high oil pressure kill a journal bearing turbo and what components get damaged?
Instead of the bearings "floating" on a film of oil in the journals, the excessive pressure pushes on the bearing and causes the bearing to contact the housing or the shaft to contact the bearing.

The journal bearings are designed to spin at half the shaft's speed while suspended in oil. If excessive incoming pressure causes the bearing to hit the housing and stall, the shaft is now spinning at 100% speed inside the bearing. This causes extreme heat and accelerated wear.

If your incoming pressure is within spec but the oil does not have the ability to drain properly (small drain) and blows oil past the seals, the oil will then take the path of least resistance exiting the housing and the journals will not remain full of oil. This will also cause extreme heat and accelerated wear.

Seems to me if you tee'd into the turbo feed line you wouldn't be getting an accurate oil pressure as most of the oil runs right through to the oil pan, seems to me you would want to run the oil pressure straight to the gauge and deadhead it to get an accurate oil pressure.
There is still pressure in the line; you want an accurate read of what the actual pressure is that would be reaching the turbo. You're making it seem like the turbo just dumps oil back into the pan, and it doesn't....there are many small orifices in the center housing that keep pressure up at the inlet.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top