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What brand/weight oil are you running?

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TheFallenTSI97

Proven Member
80
0
Mar 23, 2013
Huntsville, Alabama
This has probably been covered to death but I'm apparently and idiot when it comes to using the search. I tried several different key words and search options but couldn't find the information I'm looking for. So please don't kill me :confused:

I'm mainly asking the people that are pushing 500+whp on their car with large frame turbo, forged internals, and worked heads. I want to know what brand/viscosity oil you guys are using on your builds. I had been using Royal Purple on the previous setup. But with the new setup I want to ensure prolonged life of my turbo and engine. I considered running Rotella synthetic 5w-40 as it's made to support the high PSI and high temps of a turbo diesel. But at the same time I wasn't sure if that would be a little too "thick" for my car. Any input is greatly appreciated. If there is a thread on this exact topic please link me. I apologize again if I'm ressurecting a dead horse to beat it again.
 
I forgot to add a few bits of info.
A) I live in the south so it won't see much operating below freezing if anything It will see more of high humidity and 80 degrees F on average
B) I plan to run pump 93 octane gas with an occasional race gas for Passes and a rare Dyno run for tuning and once to see what she'll put down.
so no E85 for me, not as common around here so I made my fuel setup for pump/race gas
C) I don't know if it matters but occasionally she will be using the methanol injection.

I run valvoline vr1 20w-50. I don't drive the car until it comes up to operating temp.
Here is a list of some good suggestions.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

Very helpful sir, thank much!
 
Built 10:1 2.4: Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic 20w50 always. About 14,000 hard miles on it now almost all of them with E85. Most of the time I'm driving I am out making pulls and thrashing on it. It gets changed very often and rarely goes more than 1,000 miles without an oil change. I buy 6-10 cases in the spring when it goes on sale and I am almost already out. I always use OEM Denso filters fwiw.
 
Pick your own oil weight based on how your specific motor was built, not someone elses. If your motor was built with stock tolerance, stick to stock recommended viscosity. Then choose a brand with an additives package that suits your setup. Most std oils are "watered down" these days for emissions/fuel economy, etc.

Personally I run Amsoil Dominator. My motor was built to stock spec tolerances (a bit on the looser end), so I run 10w-30. This is their race oil, so the additives package is high but it doesn't have the detergents like many of the longer drain interval oils, so it does need to be changed more often (no issue for me as I always change at 2500mi)
 
You can use the vr1 20w50 for break-in. That's what I do. Just make sure it's the conventional and not the synthetic.

I use that after break in. I used some detergent free 10w30 penzoil for a 10 minute idle then changed for some regular 10w30 for a cruise around 10 minutes the. 20w50 and pulls for final break in.

No use using good oil that will be changed out in 10 mins twice.
 
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