Water Pump went out :(

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

I bought the car about a month ago and have yet to do the timing, I know, not good. Idk when the timing had last been done. Its a 96 with 118k miles. Its the FIRST thing im doing to the car before any modifications.

However, I have been driving it around, but taking it easy.

Anyways, did a slight 4th gear pull on the highway and it resulted in my water pump going out.

I am ordering the timing kit and getting the water pump from my local autozone, but my question is this: Could the water pump going out while I was driving have done any MAJOR damage? Oil pressure, Engine Temp and Exhaust Temp were all fine and the car felt fine driving to the shop/home just wondering. Felt like it might have been running a little rough but idk I think it might just be in my head. Also, might have been because during the 4th gear pull my o2 sensor cable came unattached.

Thanks!

PS - 1st POST! 1st of many

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Only damage it could of done is warped the head but it depends when you caught ot going out on you and if you saw the sudden rise of temp before it got critical.

Oh and welcome

 

[WES_393]

How do you know your water pump went out? Overheating? The water pump is driven by the accessory belt, not the timing belt. If the car is overheating make sure the belt is still connected. Like mentioned above, if the temp got too high it could have warped the head an blown out the head gasket.

The front o2 sensor coming unplugged will definitely cause the engine to run rough.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

How do you know your water pump went out? Overheating? The water pump is driven by the accessory belt, not the timing belt. If the car is overheating make sure the belt is still connected. Like mentioned above, if the temp got too high it could have warped the head an blown out the head gasket.

The front o2 sensor coming unplugged will definitely cause the engine to run rough.

Okay! Well im glad my theory on why the engine was running rough is correct. And the car never over heated, I pulled over right after the pull because I heard the o2 cable dragging the ground -_- and noticed a leak under my motor which was the first time I had EVER spotted a leak under my car. I think it happened on the way to school this morning or during the pull so the car never got a chance to overheat.

I drove it to my shop, and then home and the temperature stayed good, so no problems I should be worried about? Only if I continued to drive it?

And i know its the water pump because my mechanic looked at it and knew almost instantly. He showed me where it had been spraying all over my engine components

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Oh and save yourself some pain amd at least get a gates waterpump, better quality and its more likely to last the time spent under harder conditions, does get the cheaper rubbish parts as they just dont cut it. You dont want anything going wrong again all for another $30 ish

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Oh and save yourself some pain amd at least get a gates waterpump, better quality and its more likely to last the time spent under harder conditions, does get the cheaper rubbish parts as they just dont cut it. You dont want anything going wrong again all for another $30 ish

Alrighty! Ill keep that in mind, thanks!

 

[curt-s]

If you didn't overheat, then you're fine. The worst thing I can think could happen is if the pump death caused the impeller to gouge the side of the block and send metal particles into your coolant system. For that, you could try to flush it, but chances are you'd never get it all out because it would just settle in all the low spots and in the casting flash.

So I can't really think of a reason to be worried here.

 

[WES_393]

Okay! Well im glad my theory on why the engine was running rough is correct. And the car never over heated, I pulled over right after the pull because I heard the o2 cable dragging the ground -_- and noticed a leak under my motor which was the first time I had EVER spotted a leak under my car. I think it happened on the way to school this morning or during the pull so the car never got a chance to overheat.

I drove it to my shop, and then home and the temperature stayed good, so no problems I should be worried about? Only if I continued to drive it?

And i know its the water pump because my mechanic looked at it and knew almost instantly. He showed me where it had been spraying all over my engine components

If the water pump is definitely leaking from the weep hole, then I would change it out ASAP. That means the seal has gone out and the bearing is contaminated with water/coolant. It should be fine till the weekend if you keep up with coolant levels, but I would only drive the car if you absolutely have to. The timing belt has to come off to change the water pump, so now would be a good time to replace the timing belt as well.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

If the water pump is definitely leaking from the weep hole, then I would change it out ASAP. That means the seal has gone out and the bearing is contaminated with water/coolant. It should be fine till the weekend if you keep up with coolant levels, but I would only drive the car if you absolutely have to. The timing belt has to come off to change the water pump, so now would be a good time to replace the timing belt as well.

On the money my dude. He showed me the weep hole with a little mirror and it had fluid in it. Also the leak I noticed on site did not appear to be oil, clutch fuild, or coolant due to it being mixed with water.

Thanks for the info sir, that is currently my plan of action. Was gonna have new motor mounts put in this weekend but going to go ahead and take care of the tb/wp!

 

[mitsubishikid]

when you replace the water pump don't forget to have the cooling system flushed.
replace the timing belt,belt tensioner, and pulleys, and don't forget about the balance shaft belt and tensioner[if not yet eliminated]. replace all the accessory drive belts,also now would be a good time to replace the thermostat, and its gasket.
good luck.

 

[callofktulu35]

How do you know your water pump went out? Overheating? The water pump is driven by the accessory belt, not the timing belt. If the car is overheating make sure the belt is still connected. Like mentioned above, if the temp got too high it could have warped the head an blown out the head gasket.

The front o2 sensor coming unplugged will definitely cause the engine to run rough.

accessory belt driven? I could have sworn they were timing belt driven

 

[synthetek]

accessory belt driven? I could have sworn they were timing belt driven

Its driven by an accessory belt from the crank pulley.

 

[gieri002]

accessory belt driven? I could have sworn they were timing belt driven

And that's why you are still a newbie.

 

[mitsubishikid]

accessory belt driven? I could have sworn they were timing belt driven

you must have been thinking about the base 420a chrysler motor.
the mitsubishi made turbo 2g motors are as previously stated,run by an accessory drive belt.

 

[DSM1G90]

WP is driven by the ALT belt.

the PS has its own belt and driven off the WP pulley for the 4G63 setup.

6G72-V6 uses the timing belt to run the WP.

True, get a GATES WP or one from NAPA, Carquest and stay away from AZ..

 

[H@xtGSX]

What I am about to say isn't really helpful, but it is funny, and did help prevent damage from occuring...

A friend of mine and I were out drinking pork soda in the boonies with a few other folks, and after the beverages ran out and everyone was leaving, we noticed there was a fair sized wet spot under his Jeep. It didn't look like a lot, so he jumped in and left too. About 5 miles down the road, his Jeep is redlining the temp gauge, and he had just finished doing a head gasket, so he shut it down and pulled over... He lives on a ranch, in the middle of nowhere, and this is the desert. No water, no houses, no people, no cell phone signals for many miles. He isn't carrying water either. He looks, the pump is weeping... A lot. So how does a redneck fix this so he can get home without destroying anything else? A bit of "waterweld" putty in the weep hole, piss in the radiator, and leave the radiator cap loose. He said he kept getting whiffs of steaming pee all the way home, but it worked...

Just thought I would share, just in case this happens to someone and they happen to be out in the middle of nowhere.

 

[JusMX141]

accessory belt driven? I could have sworn they were timing belt driven

Yours is.

 

[daren_p]

Haven't read through the thread but, doing timing belt & associated components as your first "mod", very good idea. Going to get the parts from Autozone, not sure a good idea.

Timing belt components can be very critical components or ones that are just a pain to have to do again if what you buy fails before it should. If you research some "aftermarket" parts can be substituted but in general, stick to OEM Mitsu parts. They may cost abit more, but its worth it in the end. If your chheper parts fail, it could end up costing you alot more in the long run (remember these are interference motors)

Lots of places you can buy genuine Mitsu parts online & some of vendors also offer them at very good prices.

 

[callofktulu35]

Yours is.

Thats what i thought. I wish mine wasnt timing belt driven. Thats good to know that the turbo models arent though. I have to do a timing belt/water pump job and im not looking forward to the cost because i WILL NOT play with timing myself. Unless someone wants to help. Dont wanna spend $500 to do it. I would like to learn though.

 

[Cox Abele]

consider getting new accessory belts while you are in there. Once the serp belts get coolant on them, they tend to dry/crack easier and can cause squealing. It's not a bad idea to replace them then anyhow as preventative maintenance while they are off anyhow.

 

[JusMX141]

Thats what i thought. I wish mine wasnt timing belt driven. Thats good to know that the turbo models arent though. I have to do a timing belt/water pump job and im not looking forward to the cost because i WILL NOT play with timing myself. Unless someone wants to help. Dont wanna spend $500 to do it. I would like to learn though.

Trouble is on the 4G63 models you have to remove the timing belt and tensioner arm to change the water pump regardless....so they may as well have just made the timing belt drive the water pump too.

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The only plus is a failed water pump is not going to cause you to jump time on a 4G63.

 

[callofktulu35]

True, but with me having the 420A i'm just going to change all the pulleys as well. And i did notice then when my pump started leaking like crazy i heard a squealing belt. That and the pump leaking caused me to park the car until it gets fixed. Wife isn't too happy about taking me to work and picking me up, but hey, its a hell of a lot cheaper then replacing the engine . But just to kill my curiosity, are there any Milwaukee guys here that can recommend a decent cheap shop to do the timing belt/water pump and all the pulleys? I have a guy at work tell me about Randy's Import Auto in Waukesha but because I have the 420A they wont touch it because they dont have the tool.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

consider getting new accessory belts while you are in there. Once the serp belts get coolant on them, they tend to dry/crack easier and can cause squealing. It's not a bad idea to replace them then anyhow as preventative maintenance while they are off anyhow.

Good idea