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Viscous Coupler Comparison Pictures

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GSXeclipsePSI

20+ Year Contributor
563
7
Jul 7, 2003
New Port Richey, Florida
Hi, I got a new viscous coupler from TeamRIP for $65 cause I found sliver goo in my tranny fluid. I took the pictures of the two VCU and the darker one is the one out of my transmission. I believe my transmission to be from a RVR and the tranny code is MMZL.

Just wanted to make sure its ok to use this unit. As you can see from the pictures its alittle bit different. Also should it be hard to put on? Cause I hit it with a hammer and am still having a hard time installing the new one. I had to use a 3 jaw puller to get the old one off.

As you can see mine is burnt up. I am guessing this was my cars problem how can I see if my center diff is ok while this is off? If my center diff was broken wouldn't one of the two shafts move freely? My car seemed to me mostly rear wheel drive and felt like something was loose when letting the clutch out. It also skipped on a turn into my drive way but still drove.
 

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The new coupler appears to be mostly the same from the pictures. I might call TRE or one of the other transmission vendors on that because I am unsure if its safe to run. Your old one doesnt look that bad honestly, but if you have a new one might as well replace it. It sounds like your center diff may be blown as well. Symptoms of a broken center diff are:

Rear wheels don't want to turn going around tight low speed right or left turns and sometimes "skip."
Nasty clunking sound coming from transmission area.
Car feels like it's being held back, may even die, when trying to backup and turn left or right.
Flakes of metal in the transmission fluid.

Since you are already half way there you might as well pull out the center diff and check it out. Just remove the 2 34mm nuts, gears, 3 bolts on the front of the transmission with the little balls and springs and then pull off the 2nd case and the center diff is right there.
 
My only problem with taking the center diff out was getting the two nuts off. My air tools aren't strong enough to break them free and don't see how to remove them with the two wrenches and pennies trick. I would rather get this done without paying someone as I am capable as I completey rebuild my whole engine myself.

Where also should I look for center diff? I found part numbers if I broke the normal parts just not used whole units.
 
Hm... I was able to get the nuts off of mine easily using the penny trick.

After reading though the vfaq I noticed it says to "unstake" the nuts. It looks like the nuts may have a notch where they are "locked" on the shaft which you have to bend out with a screwdriver or chisel. I didnt have to do this on mine, but mine was also a 1g...

Link for reference

Dre

As far as getting a whole new diff with the housing I would say your best bet is to find one used. The only part number I have is for a rebuild kit which is the gears and the shaft itself. This excludes the housing. MD733338 Not sure about a whole new, already assembled diff.
 
Hm... I was able to get the nuts off of mine easily using the penny trick.

After reading though the vfaq I noticed it says to "unstake" the nuts. It looks like the nuts may have a notch where they are "locked" on the shaft which you have to bend out with a screwdriver or chisel. I didnt have to do this on mine, but mine was also a 1g...

That's correct you 'll have to unstake both nuts. so far all of the 1g's that i've done are the same as 2g's atleast as far as that goes. and a rag works as well as a penny. btw if you use a penny or a rag after you unstake the nuts you should be able to break them loose with a half inch drive breaker bar and socket.
 
Can someone better describe or have pictures to how to get the nuts off?

pictures would be perfect
 
I found a picture of an axle nut that may help give you an idea of what needs to be done. This is a picture of a nut that is unstaked. To stake it one would use a small punch and hammer to dent the nut in to the shaft. This "locks" it in place so that it cant back off. So to unstake the nut you will do the opposite. Just use a punch or screwdriver to pound out the dent and unlock it from the shaft.
 

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Ok thanks roast beef all I need now is how to do the penny trick i am about to look it up
 
It was a lot easier to do it with a impact then to ever worry about the penny trick just FYI.
 
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