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2G Valve cover studs?

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New gasket and o rings in middle are brand new.

its leaking out of bottem right corner and falls downward..

but i dont have nuts on any of my studs... so the only thing holding the cover down is the middle bolts.. (i didnt use studs for the middle) and its leaking oil..
 
I was speaking about in the oil pan, not the head. I didn't make that clear.
 
is it possible oil can come through the studs without a nut ontop of them
? im leaking madd oil

You HAVE to use nuts on the studs. You can't just use the center bolts.
Remember that all the rocker cover fasteners only get 3 ft lbs of torque. Your little sister can do that with a 1/4" ratchet and one finger so don't get ham fisted.
 
i give up, im so frustrated..
i love my dsm but damn this is rediculous such an easy fix and i cant do it

I bolted down the studs.. IT STILL LEAKS
I DONT KNOW WHERE THE LEAK IS COMING FROM
if i screw out the stud, the threadign has oil on it .. so does that mean its leaking up through the side of stud??



kjFSpjvpofjfp fvo :cry::aha:



I have a hydundai valve cover on it with a hyundai sonata valve cover gasket on.. will that make it leak? studs all way around except for middle they are bolts...
 
Yeah, by saying you bolted down the studs it makes it sound like you put the studs in torqued them down put the valve cover on and used bolts in the middle with no nut on the studs to hold the valve cover onto the studs, if this is the case sir you are wrong. LOL.
 

Ok - after looking at the studs from the link above, I'm wondering how you install them. I've never installed a stud in anything before. The studs are 100% threaded so do you just hand tighten them? Is there a special tool to use? Do you put anti-seize or anything else on them?

I'll be swapping out my valve cover soon, and this seems like a better option than the allen head bolts and crappy plastic washers I currently have.
 
Just because your using a stud doesn't change the torque spec for installing them. If you do anything other than install the stud by hand you risk damaging the head.

If your worried about them coming out, clean the holes with brake cleaner, use a little loctite blue and thread the stud in by hand. Be careful not to hydrolock the holes with oil, non-evaporated cleaner, or too much threadlocker.

Don't some (all?) of the Hyundai covers use larger holes/studs than the bolts used on a Mitsubishi? That can allow oil to wick up the shaft and leak out under the nut. On other cars that use studs rather than bolts they have special washers that seal to go under the nuts.
 
woopps didnt mean to put picture of my tails..

but as u can see i dont have the nuts on the studs..
ANSWER THIS. if i put the nuts on the studs and tighten them down.. WILL IT STOP LEAKING OIL

I did not crack the cover !!!!! i cracked the one before but just snug these..

and to make the studs sit all the way down. so its just thread i can see. do i need to grind some of the bottem threads off?
 
+1 I would remove the valve cover. Take a clean rag and wipe the excesive oil from the edge of the head where the valve cover touches. Then I would remove the VC gasket and wash it with dawn dishsoap and hot water. Dry the gasket and clean any excessive oil off of the VC itself. Once thats done reinstall the gasket and put a smal amount of RTV silicone in the corners and torque to spec using the proper length center bolts. If you have a new gasket and follow this it should seal. If you dont clean it up your going to keep leaking oil.
 
Like Brian said, I only used 4 of mine on the oil pan just to make installation easier. I replaced the nuts with SS M6 flanged serated nuts though. However, I am on the lookout for similar studs in SS.

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How long are the studs? I may be able to find some.

They're m6x1.0 right?
Just because your using a stud doesn't change the torque spec for installing them. If you do anything other than install the stud by hand you risk damaging the head.

If your worried about them coming out, clean the holes with brake cleaner, use a little loctite blue and thread the stud in by hand. Be careful not to hydrolock the holes with oil, non-evaporated cleaner, or too much threadlocker.

Don't some (all?) of the Hyundai covers use larger holes/studs than the bolts used on a Mitsubishi? That can allow oil to wick up the shaft and leak out under the nut. On other cars that use studs rather than bolts they have special washers that seal to go under the nuts.

I thought that I heard that loctite shouldn't be used on aluminum...?
 
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+1 Looks like the bolts in the center (near the plug wires) are too long. Even though you tightened them down, they are not snug/flush with the valve cover.

The studs are wrong. Those studs have a section for you to put a wrench/socket on (the part that isn't threaded) so even if you put a nut on, it will only tighten down to the end of the threads not all the way down to the valve cover surface.
 
can someone send me a link of the studs i need ... these ones i got on suckk and wont work.. so ill just order new ones.. cant find them at local parts store.. SEND EXACT ONES PLEASE =)
thanksss
 
I thought that I heard that loctite shouldn't be used on aluminum...?

News to me and I couldn't find any supporting documentation on their website but several links that make me think the issue is with red and the bond being stronger than the threads. A drop og blue isn't going to be a problem.

Those studs have a section for you to put a wrench/socket on (the part that isn't threaded) so even if you put a nut on, it will only tighten down to the end of the threads not all the way down to the valve cover surface.

Ha Ha, I thought those were the nuts not the shank of the stud.
 
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