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Resolved Valve Cover Madness

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mitecl96

10+ Year Contributor
460
9
Feb 20, 2012
McMinnville, Tennessee
I have had more car for about two years. The whole time I have owned the vehicle, it has always leaked from the valve cover. I have changed the gasket 4 times before my rebuild.

I was hoping it wouldn't leak because when I was rebuilding the motor I seen 4 of the threads on the head where just about stripped. I fix it with heli coils.

After the rebuild it was only leaking from 3 of the spark plug tubes. Took the valve cover off and cleaned everything off and put it back on and again it leaked on 2 of the spark plugs.

I put the cover on just like the manual says. In a 3 step torque down. 3.3 ft lb than 6.5 ft lbs than finally 9 ft lbs. I do it in sequence like the manual say.

Still frustrated I took it back off and cleaned it up again. This time I used a high temp. gasket maker.

Guess what happen, yet again, it leaked from some of the spark plug seals.

Can someone please help me, and tell me what I have done wrong over and over again. I only have one valve cover seal set left.
 
mine never leaked but when I got my Hyundai valve cover I reused the 145k gasket, all I did was use brakleen on the head, black rtv on my finger and lightly covered the whole valve cover. I did apply more at some corners like the haynes manual says but hey it works for me.
 
Its funny this thread popped up. I actually had this exact problem where my gasket was leaking oil constantly because it was ruptured on the front part. So how I fixed it, I got some black rtv and instead of replacing the old gasket I left it on there and just rtv on the top of the old gasket. Then I bolted everything down tight. I then ran rtv around the valve cover where it meets the head, I waited till it dried completely (24 hours) and bam, no more leaks :) PS. This is going to be stupid but make sure you got the bolts right. I noticed that the ones on the outside edge of the valve cover are different than the ones on the inside. I don't know how much this will help you, but I tried!!
 
If it continues to leak oil into the spark plug wells even after new gaskets and correct torque, I would look for cracks in the valve cover and plug wells. Check for warping by taking a flat edge to the tops of the spark plug wells and mating surfaces on the valve cover.

Also, have you checked you PCV system lately? Have you noticed much smoke or oil loss? Excesses crank case pressure could push oil into the plug wells. While the car is running, lightly spray the tops of the spark plug boots with soapy water. If you see bubbles then you have crankcase pressure leaking into the plug well.

If there's no obvious cracks, warping, or serious blow-by, then (as much as I hate doing so) I would put a light amount of black RTV on the gaskets and mating surfaces. That should help seal up any tiny area's that are letting in oil.
 
almost all engines valve covers leak! black rtv is a must!

No its not a must. Although I do like RTV, it's not exactly needed. Most valve covers leak do to a weak PCV system. Also a warped surface could be a possibility like stated above. If everything checks out I would maybe try a different valve cover. Just a thought.
 
Whenever I pull my valve cover off, and subsequently put it back on, I use a 10mm nut driver to install the bolts. I spin them down until they're snug and then give another 1/4-1/2 turn if needed. Anything beyond this (roughly 5in lbs or 5ft lbs, I forget which) and you risk cracking the cover. Typically within the middle section covered by the spark plug cover. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. I have never seen the torque sequence you mentioned posted in any publication for our cars. I'm not implying that you're wrong, just posting my experience. I have cracked several VCs due to over tightening. I know I'm not alone on this either.

Although rtv is a good idea, it isn't mandatory. I've rarely used it and never have any leaks beyond the gasket being a poor seal.

Also, if you've pulled your cover off and reinstalled it multiple times using the same gasket and have had the engine up to operational temps, over time the heat will expand the gasket and make it a poor seal.

(This is experience from a n/t 2g talon too, not just the 4g63)
 
Every time I have pulled the valve cover I have replaced the seals. After the rebuild I had 4 valve cover seal sets because when I ordered parts in kits, some kits had another valve cover with it.

I only have one left so I want to make sure I put in on right and get rid of this problem because I hate that I spent all that time cleaning and painting my engine bay and I am getting oil all over it.

Here is what I used to bolt down the valve cover. I got it from a 420a overhaul manual.
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Thanks for the help so far. I am planning to check to make sure everything is straight and not warped.
 

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Wow, I've never seen that diagram. I guess follow that. I never did since I had never seen it. Good idea to check warpage. That's the only other thing I can think of. Good luck. Also since you got the diagram, didyou tighten the bolts in sequence?
 
Yeah I did it exactly as it says. I'll pull it off Monday when I get back from a trip and check to see if it is warped.

What is a good way to clean out the lip on the valve cover where the seal goes into.
I have tried a wire brush, sand paper, and even a razor blade.
 
I never had a problem with my DSM, but my truck sure did. I use special silicone called "The Right Stuff" . It comes in a aerosol can. You do not need to let it dry or cure at all. Directions say apply silicone and immediately return to service. I use it when I really can't afford to have a leak on something critical at work.
 
I personally think its cracked. It's very easy to do, specially being on and off the car so many times. I had the same issues with one I polished up real nice. It had hairline cracks along the timing cover side that you couldn't see unless you cleaned it out real good and watched it idle for awhile.. oil would slowly start to seep out the cracks. I'd get a new valve cover and gasket with longer bolts for the stripped out holes.

BTW I have a few if your interested. mistu or hyundia.. all tested good on my car, and i can shave them or paint them if interested.

Scratch that.. just realized it was for a 420a
 
I fixed the stripped out screws with heli coils. That is no longer a problem. Before the engine rebuild it didn't leak at the spark plugs. It leaked on the back side. Now it don't leak on the back. It leaks at spark plug number 1.

I really don't want to use anything that sprays on because I don't want a mess anywhere because the whole engine bay was cleaned up and painted.


I personally think its cracked. its very easy to do, specially being on and off the car so many times. I had the same issues with one I polished up real nice. It had hairline cracks along the timing cover side that you couldnt see unless you cleaned it out real good and watched it idle for awhile.. oil would slowely start to seap out the cracks. Id get a new valve cover and gasket with longer bolts for the stripped out holes.

BTW i have a few if your interested. mistu or hyundia.. all tested good on my car, and i can shave them or paint them if interested.

scratch that.. just relized it was for a 420a


I was thinking about getting a new valve cover and having it shaved, but yeah it's a 420a.
 
Was talking to a older guy today and ended up talking about my car. Then about how I can't get the valve cover to stop leaking.
He was talking about how some of his old cars would leak at the valve cover because yo my pressure in the motor when they upgraded oil pump.

I did something not to smart and looked it up later. I bought the high velocity oil pump.

Could this be a reason it is leaking. The guy said to just put a breather on the valve cover. Not to use the hose on the intake. Would this work
 
If your pump is functioning properly, you should have no blowby/extra pressure problems (which is what he is talking about). Also, if blowby problems, they generally show at seals lips (ie cam seals and crank seal) first. Of course, even IF you had too much oil pressure, there is no way it would show on the valve cover. It is a oil slinger area, not an oil pressurized area.

Cracks are unlikely. Ours don't generally crack because of the design of bolts and rubber grommets that are used.

No you don't NEED rtv. I use it in spots to help keep the gasket in place as I flip the VC.

Have you replaced your rubber grommets? (the ones around the bolts).

Because you are having such a problem, I have a strong suspicion that the VC is warped. I have run into that a couple times now. The first one really busted my balls :p.

MB
 
I have everything replaced on the valve cover and even have two extra sets of everything. I am out looking for a cheap valve cover.

I was wondering the best way to clean the lip on the valve cover where the gasket goes. On the outer lip it has some sealer in it and I couldn't get it out. I used a wire brush.
 
I use a small flate blade screwdriver for cleaning the lip on v/c, then brake clean to get rid of any oil.for the head I like emry paper or scrotch pad. Brake clean mounting surface on head too but spray it on a paper towel or clean cloth to avoid getting brake clean in the engine. Good prep work goes along way..I put a dab of rtv just where the VC gasket dips(wherever it's not flate) other than that u prob have a crack or warping issue.
 
Alright I bought a valve cover and had it checked and its fine. Just got done replacing it and guess what leaking worse.

I swear this is making me want to sell my car and get rid of it and never look back.

I now can't drive my car for how much is leaking its almost poring out the the spark plugs.

Can anyone help me at all. I'm tired of wasting money on nothing.

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All coming out the #1 and #2.

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I noticed that this valve cover doesn't exactly line up the the head on the spark plugs but it does hit the head no problem.
 

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I had kind of the same problem. It's just a matter of getting the right seals for the spark plug gaskets and the for the god of me can't remember the name right now. But the rubbers for the bolts. (Someone help me out) it took me two gasket sets before I finally got my valve cover to start leaking. Don't be so fast at putting it on and make sure to put good rtv in the right places.
 
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