upseting dyno numbers

[DSMtuned]

Originally posted by Groomz
The stock sidemount is limiting your whole setup. With a good FMIC, 300whp is definitely possible. The stock sidemount is really only good for stock boost and power levels. Turn up the boost and its not doing a good job at all. FMIC and 20psi will get you what you want.

-Groomz

I agree with your stock sidemount limiting your set-up. GET WATER INJECTION!! I am running 21psi on the stock intercooler with 91octane on the 16g. I have 550s and my O2s run about .88v.

I could do better if I had a FMIC as well, but I'll tell you, this WI helps out big time!! You just have to be sure that you do regular checks on your system and clean the nozzles.

 

[ge-du-racer]

That seems way low to me! Last summer I got 181 Hp out of my car with only a turbo-back, clutch and 9 lb flywheel. It was a crappy hub mounted dyno too, and i think the guy stoped at like 6800 rpm even though i told him to go right up to 75.

 

[GPTourer]

More fuel for the fire. The "small" graph is my untuned T-25.
The big graph is the tuned Evo3. Se my profile for mods, but the pertinent info is Denso 660's and stock sidemount @19psi.

 

[GPTourer]

Looking at the above graph and reading the tuning guide leads me to think that perhaps I am running too lean. My EGT isn't hooked up yet. I run 93 octane gas. What do you guys think?

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by GPTourer
Looking at the above graph and reading the tuning guide leads me to think that perhaps I am running too lean. My EGT isn't hooked up yet. I run 93 octane gas. What do you guys think?

I would say that it is also a little on the lean side. 12:1 is acceptable, but typically you will run .5 higher on the street. Tune for 11.5:1 would be optimal. Looks like there is a little lean spike in there that could easily be tuned out. As long as the timing and fuel are where they need to be, EGT isn't really necessary. Its a nice safeguard for sure, but tuning is better left to timing and fuel.

-Groomz

 

[GPTourer]

You would think that lean spike could easily be tuned out, but it didn't quite work out that way.

When I logged some highway pulls and while it was on the dyno my timing would usually be in the 12-17 range and O2 around .98
One one or two exceptions timing got up to 30 and O2 as low as .94 or as high as 1.02.

Regardless I agree with you and would want to richen up the mid high end some. I was thinking a 2% change on the SAFC-2 would add some safety without sacrificing too much power, right?

 

[GPTourer]

Whoops, forget all that. I forgot we made one more run aright after the above one where he did tone it down some, including the spike. The car was getting hot and power went down quite a bit, but at least the A/F was better. Outside in the cool air, I'm sure it puts down at least as much as the former.

 

[jfdid]

Wheel HP is obviously going to be much lower than that at the flywheel. In fact, the actual loss is anywhere from 17-30%!!!(With AWD more towards the 30%) Just keep that in mind when you're looking at your WHP. When 230AWHP could be 270-300.

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by jfdid
Wheel HP is obviously going to be much lower than that at the flywheel. In fact, the actual loss is anywhere from 17-30%!!!(With AWD more towards the 30%) Just keep that in mind when you're looking at your WHP. When 230AWHP could be 270-300.

Who cares what is at the flywheel unless you are trying to cut down on parasitic loss? What gets to the wheels is what moves the car.

 

[jfdid]

Originally posted by Groomz
Who cares what is at the flywheel unless you are trying to cut down on parasitic loss? What gets to the wheels is what moves the car.

I totally agree with you, but so many people will think they're car is fast, but then see the stock numbers on cars from Car and Driver etc. which are rated at the flywheel, and be like, oh shit, that thing's fast. Just a heads up.

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by jfdid
I totally agree with you, but so many people will think they're car is fast, but then see the stock numbers on cars from Car and Driver etc. which are rated at the flywheel, and be like, oh shit, that thing's fast. Just a heads up.

I gotcha now.

 

[NOAHSR10]

Wheel HP is obviously going to be much lower than that at the flywheel. In fact, the actual loss is anywhere from 17-30%!!!(With AWD more towards the 30%) Just keep that in mind when you're looking at your WHP. When 230AWHP could be 270-300.

Thats great... but a 60 hp gain to the flywheel is what i would be dissapointed about.

But anyway i just ordered a GReddy 24R FMIC from extreme psi and it should be here on tuesday. Hopefully i can get it in by the end of the night. Now do i need to get it dyno tuned again if i raise boost from 19 to 20 with the FMIC, or should the settings be pretty much the same?

 

[GPTourer]

I would consider tuning it again on the dyno. The FMIC should be increasing the quality of the air by making it denser and cooler, and then your raisng the boost, so in effect things are probably going to run leaner, until the ECU (over)compensates. My sparkplugs alone made a seat of the pants difference, but I plan on going back when I get my new intercooler.

 

[EclipseGSX9705]

anyone know where I can find a dyno around here.

nice rightaway. keep it going.