Turbo getting too hot?

[Blitzking]

90 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo - 5 speed with new stage 3 clutch and pressure plate. The car runs and drives great, when cold or under hard acceleration. I was actually impressed with the power the TD05 makes, the engine is stock. I replaced the turbo because the one on the car was seized when I bought it. The replacement looks identical to the one I took off the car. I did replace the stock exhaust manifold with a performance one with equal length tubes. Today was the first day I drove the car since replacing it. It was running great, but after running it hard the car wanted to stall and the idle dropped to 500 RPM. I made it home and let the car idle in the drive way while I adjusted the idle screw to 700/800 RPM. So it idled for around 10 minutes and I hopped in the car to test drive it again, then I noticed a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust and smelling of oil and fuel. When I tried to clear the car out it stumbled and bogged. I attempted to drive it and it would chug terribly and the boost gauge was above 7 up to 14 barely moving down the road. If I left my foot in it it would clear out and launch like a missle, but only with my foot to the floor. I made it back home and listened to the engine it sounded like the turbo was making scraping noises so I shut it off. I let it cool down for about 4 hours and it started right up but made a sqeaking sound from the turbo for just a second. I drove the car around again and it ran like a raped ape above 55, it was awesome again! But after idling around back in town for about 20 minutes it started chugging again, so I put it back in the garage. Is my Turbo overheating? The engine is running nice and cool and the cooling fans work great.

 

[jrs187]

I would suggest checking your turbo for shaft play. If it is excessive you may need a rebuild.

 

[dsmdream]

The first thing you should do is stop driving it and check for shaft play. You heard scrapping so you should look at the fins and make sure they didn't hit the compressor cover. If that checks out fine then start with a boost leak test and go from there But if it doesn't you better get ready to do some reading. good luck

 

[Blitzking]

After looking at your suggestions I searched the forums for more information. I am starting to think it is an oiling problem, maybe with the supply. I am using the stock style lines for this where it feeds off the head and then drains back to crankcase. The new turbo I purchased did have an issue with the top oiler bolt being the wrong thread as the original so I ordered a banjo bolt that was the right thread it was for a Subaru. I noticed the oiler hole was a bit smaller than the original, maybe this is where my issue is?

 

[96awd16g]

Did you check shaft play yet? Make sure compressor housing is seated correctly? Check for boost leaks? Try the obvious before shooting to an oiling issue.

 

[Blitzking]

No shaft play, spins freely. Have to go buy equipment to perform boost leak test.

I created a boost (vacuum) leak tester filled to 10 psi and found several leaks , vacuum hoses to egr valve (cut and reinstalled), intake gasket (tightened bolts), hoses to purge canister and to valve cover (hose clamps). After these repairs it was better but still leaked air around fuel injectors (odd). The rail is tight so I'm guessing the o-rings are worn out. I still could not get the system to hold pressure because of this. But the idle was better and I had to lower the idle speed. I also changed to full synthetic 10w30 Valvoline and a high end filter.
I drove the car around town a couple times with no problems today, ran great.
But this evening I ran it hard and it ran fine but after about a 30 minute ride it started to bog and buck at speeds under 45 mph. Under hard throttle it runs good.

 

[Blitzking]

Well after driving the car for3 days, I can now boil it down to the car is bogging bcause the plugs are fouling out after sitting at idle, or driving for longer than 15 minutes.

 

[rlacasse1]

You need to still fix your boost leaks, and you need to test at a higher pressure than 10 psi.

Take off the upper intercooler hose from the throttle body elbow and find something to plug it with. I think I used a PVC cap at one time. Then you can test everything up to the throttle body at a higher pressure.

In unrelated news, why is there a park bench on the hatch of your car?

 

[Blitzking]

I'm finding it very difficult to make the car hold 10 psi for longer than 10 seconds, most of the noise seems to be internally in the head (open valves) there is no noise in the intercooler or piping (which is all stock).

 

[NHerron]

When doing the test, try to set the engine to 30* ATDC, so the valves aren't in overlap. Otherwise air goes out the exhaust and doesn't hold pressure.

30* ATDC would be about 2 inches counterclockwise from the mark in the crank pulley, lined up to the 0* mark on the plastic cover.

Also, don't get annoyed and seal off the crankcase to hold pressure, otherwise you can blow gaskets or seals. And that wouldn't be good

Fuel injector lower seals is what's leaking. They are such a common leak it isn't funny. Unfortunatly I'm not 100% on if the auto parts stores sell them but here is where you can get them online:
Xpsi all-in-one kit:
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=17787&cat=863&page=1
Seals individually:
http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=314&osCsid=b9abb74ccc1a3aedccb19fbcf22d898b

Annnnnd a good guide on the whole operation:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...328-removing-injectors-replacing-o-rings.html

 

[Blitzking]

So I'm gathering that some have experienced fouled out spark plugs and a run rich condition do to boost leak? Basically it's fouling out the plugs to the point that it causes the studdering when the vehicle is hot. When the vehicle is cold or warm it runs perfect.

 

[rlacasse1]

What plugs are you using? And what are they gapped at?

 

[Blitzking]

NGK bpr7es ? .28

 

[Blitzking]

Well, I officially have no more boost leaks other than what can be heard inside the engine block and valve cover. I have the factory repair manuals (3) issued by Chrysler for the 1990 Plymouth Laser. I have went thru every sensor and circuit test and they all pass. I have set the idle correctly at 750, set the timing at 5 degress, have good engine vacuum around 20 inches. Have strong spark, and have good fuel pressure. I did change the plugs back to the A/C Delco's that were in the car when I purchased it just for shits and giggles. Might actually run a little better with these but the NGK's were blackened Cajun style.

I am out of options. I have never had a CEL other than when I disconnected each sensor. The engine has around 160 PSI in each cylinder during the compression test and I did a cylinder leak down test as well and they all hold pressure with minimal blow by. Changing to full synthetic I did notice a little more internal engine noise, but the oil pressure is still good.

I disconnected the vacuum hose connected to the BOV (recirc) and connected that hose to my vacuum gauge. I think it may have actually idled better while disconnected. When I reattached it the engine spuddered and a little puff of blue smoke came out of the Turbo (wastegate shaft?) then the car started smoking really bad as if I was pulling oil into the exhaust system? It eventually clears up after a few minutes. I let the car run at idle for about 45 minutes it did this puff of smoke thing at least 3 times. After this I took it for a test drive and it still chugged at part throttle but ran like a raped ape at full throttle.

So as long as I'm only racing down the 1/4 mile it will be fine to drive! Ha!

 

[Blitzking]

Well to let everyone know, the car had over a half tank of gas which sat in it for over a year. I capped off tje tank with 89 a month before driving it. So after driving thru a half tank of gas in only 50 miles. I was reminded of how bad or low octane gas can foul out plugs in a snowmobile.
I topped off the car with 93 octane and now the issues are gone!
Duh!!!!

 

[richard33]

Well to let everyone know, the car had over a half tank of gas which sat in it for over a year. I capped off tje tank with 89 a month before driving it. So after driving thru a half tank of gas in only 50 miles. I was reminded of how bad or low octane gas can foul out plugs in a snowmobile.
I topped off the car with 93 octane and now the issues are gone!
Duh!!!!

one more issue..that huge wing! haha. Good to hear your problems are resolved.

 

[Snake-TSI]

It's funny how sometimes we overlook the simplest of problems and our negativity sends us in the worst direction possible. I went through 3 alternators before realizing it was just the fuse. On the plus side you fixed all the leaks before any issues arose glad to hear everything is running good

 

[Blitzking]

Well the car had been running pretty well but the temp outside here in michigan has been pretty cold this fall. We are in the middle of a warm -up above 65 and the car runs like crap once it's up to temperature. When I try to just drive at a normal rpm 2-3000 the car bogs, chugs, and stumbles. Also the boost gauge is maxed while it's doing this. If I let the car idle too long it starts to have a smelly whitesh smoke come from the tailpipe. The idle is rough and it misses if held steady off idle. I have checked every sensor and have no boost leaks and no check engine lights. I think the turbo is crap, ebay china special.