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TURBO and N/A block

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No the big T is on the piston dish. Pull the plugs, lower the piston about half way down the bore (bump the starter a couple of times until it is), shine a pen light or other small flashlight with a good concentrated beam into the block. It should say "63T" upside down in the middle of the dish.
 
If some one put in the turbo pistons, threaded in the knock sensor bung, and took the trouble to put in the oil squirters; then it's the same thing. Some n/t blocks do come with the bung already tapped.

Those are the only differences in the blocks. The oil squirters are a debatable item with which to bother. And the real concern is the turbo pistons, unless you need to have someone else drill and tap the knock sensor bung. . .

OK. . . .

1990-1992 manual turbo, 1990-1004 a/t turbo, and 1990-1994 n/t exhaust cams are the same. 1990-1994 manual turbo, 1995-1999 a/t & manual intake cams are the same, except for a SLIGHT difference in lift. 1990-1994 n/t intake cams are the same as 1990-1994 manual turbo and 1995-1999 a/t & manual cams except for having about 5 degrees advance.

So, to get an n/t head or auto turbo to have the same cams as the 1990-1992 turbo manual, you just need a 1990-1994 manual turbo or 1995-1999 a/t & manual intake cam. 1995-1999 exhaust cams are an upgrade to all 1990-1992 cars. 1993-1994 exhaust cams are the same as 1995-1999. 1993-1994 intake cams are just like 1990-1992 manual turbo and 1995-1999 cams except for having the SLIGHTLY higher lift. They are hard to find and you'd be better off not wasting your time for such a menial difference an just get the 1990-1992 or 1995-1999 intake cams.

LOL confused?

Stock cams are all very cheap used. I wouldn't turn my head away from a good 4g63 longblock because the cams wern't turbo. After all it only takes an intake cam to turn the block into a factory turbo head (makes it a 1990-1992 manual turbo head).
 
what do u do if it does not come with the oil squirters.can i take them out of my blown up block if tis dont come with them.

Bro dont even get into an n/a block there is a thread about it somewhere in this forum i was going through the other day and it takes work and time to do this conversion and it could be boosted only up to 8psi, or you would go boom...
 
Bro dont even get into an n/a block there is a thread about it somewhere in this forum i was going through the other day and it takes work and time to do this conversion and it could be boosted only up to 8psi, or you would go boom...

That is if you have the n/t internals. The block is the same with the exception of the oil squirters and they aren't even necessary. If you get a n/t block, put turbo goodies in it and tap the knock sensor bung then you have a turbo block and can run as much psi as any other turbo block.
 
my na block already had the knock sensor hole there

:ohdamn:Ok, what was the condition of the hole? if it had a knock sensor in it, the metal would look shiny and new.

If it is corroded, tarnished and worn, then that would lead me to believe that it is a NT engine
 
Bro dont even get into an n/a block there is a thread about it somewhere in this forum i was going through the other day and it takes work and time to do this conversion and it could be boosted only up to 8psi, or you would go boom...

Yeah, if you don't know how to tune. No reason you couldn't put a 14b on a 9.1:1 n/a block...
 
Oil squirters do not oil any bearings. all they do is squirt oil to the underside of the pistons to aid in cooling. Most people say you do not need them, I'd say if you aren't running forged internals they are good to have. If you are having your block machined anyway you should ask your machinist how much he would charge to drill the holes and install the squirters.
 
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