Tubular rear subframe - Input needed

[turbo23]

thats not a bad idea if room allows, and he can do it without redesigning the jig.. might be somthing to look into after he makes a couple.

 

[97gst_spyder]

I would love one! I've been looking at the Magnus one forever. But the price is way to high.

I'm guessing 4 symmetrical mounting point for the stock diff?

 

[99gst_racer]

It would be a ton of extra work to make other rearends interchange into the subframe. My build process relies on the attachment points of the differential to be in place in the fixture. And I don't currently have the means to machine special adapter brackets for any differential. Truthfully, It would be far easier to just build a separate fixture to cater specifically to a different rearend.

Incorporating a sway bar will be tricky, but I'll work on it.

I'm guessing 4 symmetrical mounting point for the stock diff?

It will use 4 points on the cover and then both 3-bolt sections on the pinion end.

 

[dsmTripp]

It would be a great idea for us 2g spyder owners who plan on going awd.no need to source out a good subframe that's in good condition. Personally I'm all for it and interested in the final outcome.

 

[gofer]

I'm in for the mild steel, Paul, and if I'm replacing the entire rear subframe with this piece I'd rather not use the stock control arms either. Retaining the factory gas tank would be a must too, since in the future I plan on upgrading to the FF tank that Andrew builds which bolts in like factory.

It will brace the differential much better than from the factory; both sides of the pinion area and 4 points on the diff cover.

What parts out of this pile will I be able to use or be replaced on this tubular subframe?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[99gst_racer]

What parts out of this pile will I be able to use or be replaced on this tubular subframe?

You wouldn't need any of that aluminum. And I'll have to check to make sure it will work with Andrew's cover. Worst case senerio, it would only be a small bushing change to fit with that cover.

 

[Morphius]

Do the 1g and 2g diff covers interchange?

 

[DSM_PWR]

Subscribed

 

[donk]

Iam in for a 1g one ! build one and I will buy it !

/A

 

[gofer]

Do the 1g and 2g diff covers interchange?

No sir. Here's the FF diff cover for the 1g, if thats why your asking?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product here Paul.

 

[nfernotalon]

Paul I'm sure these will sell like crazy. Then maybe you can start cranking out some 1g ones. At least I hope so!

 

[99gst_racer]

I hadn't planned to build anymore 1G stuff ever since I got rid of my 1G earlier this year. But if enough people want one for a 1G, I'll consider making one. It wouldn't be until around next summer/fall though.

 

[snowborder714]

And that's after you consider doing a front crossmember for the 2g, right?

My vote for a FWD model, if there's a way to adapt it. Definitely taking into consideration all of the stuff Kevin and Eric mentioned.

 

[99gst_racer]

And that's after you consider doing a front crossmember for the 2g, right?

Definitely taking into consideration all of the stuff Kevin and Eric mentioned.

Most definitely.

My vote for a FWD model, if there's a way to adapt it.

Maybe time for the AWD swap, ehh?

 

[snowborder714]

I've considered it, but I like my sub-2800 lb car as is right now. Too much weight with the swap

 

[donk]

I hadn't planned to build anymore 1G stuff ever since I got rid of my 1G earlier this year. But if enough people want one for a 1G, I'll consider making one. It wouldn't be until around next summer/fall though.

You should get one again =) I def think there is people who wants one I have talked to marco maybe a year or two ago and I know he had people who where intersested but I guess he just hadent the time, I would like one thats lighter and offers more adjustment and thats let you use swaybars. I can wait for it still have lots af stuff to do on the car havent even mounted the fron tubular subframe yet ha ha and fenders still needs to be flared just bought a house to so time for the car is a little bit on second place for the moment.

/A

 

[DSMReviver]

Any plans on making aluminum control arm in the future?

Paul you should start with the chromoly front K-member, it should be easier then the rear.

Also make it affortable for an average joe would be nice

 

[Morphius]

No sir. Here's the FF diff cover for the 1g, if thats why your asking?

Negating the mount "bosses" on the covers and anything regarding the subframe, can you physically bolt a 1g cover in place of a 2g cover?

Thinking outside the box, what about incorporating some features utilized in the 1g subframe into the 2g setup? Like the mustache bar? Just thinking about 1g cars, short of some replacement bushings, you don't hear of guys breaking 1g diffs like the 2g guys.

I havene't looked at my 1g vs 2g subframes very close, but if I recall, the 1g setup is supported at the front of the housing on both sides. (Which is what some are doing on the 2g subframes, welding in a second mount on the subframe near the nose of the housing, right?)

Can you incorporate any 1g features to allow one to bolt either a 1g or 2g diff in place? Either by changing a part like the rear diff cover, including additional bosses, or utilizing an interchangeable part like a mustache bar. So, for instance you'd buy the base subframe. If you're running a 2g diff, you also buy the appropriate mustache bar (or removeable subframe section) to use with the 2g housing. If it's a 1g diff, again you'd buy the appropriate part to use with the base subframe.

Just seems like you could simplify it some, as the 1g setup uses the housing as a structural member more than the 2g setup.

 

[dsmusmc]

About time!! Magnus is a great piece but $2,000 is high for most people. Others have talked about it but no ones really started on it. Im glad to see it's you working on this after seeing your work on the 1G products.

And that's after you consider doing a front crossmember for the 2g, right?

Andrew at Frontline Fabrication keeps talking about doing these and advertised them then seems like he just forgot about them. If you did these to that would be great.

 

[greengoblin]

If you are going to make it so it can house a different mitsu rear end I'd think an 05+ evo rear dif would be pretty swank. From what I've read the drive train from the EVO starting in 05 are very robust.

 

[turbosax2]

For reference, found some pictures of Magnus subframe with sway bar mounts:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[snowborder714]

Andrew at Frontline Fabrication keeps talking about doing these and advertised them then seems like he just forgot about them. If you did these to that would be great.

Yup, I've been watching the thread on the link forums for this, but know he's a busy guy. I don't see it happening any time soon, sadly.

 

[jdsoza]

Have you thought about building a subframe for road racers who need corrected geometry? A subframe with raise pickup points for a car lowered between an inch-inch and a half would be way beneficial. I know it costs money to run against the big dogs, but after speaking with a chassis engineering shop here in phoenix im debating having them modify both front and rear frames for the 1.5 inch drop i will be doing. For both front and rear geometry corrected and corner weighing for center of gravity, its gonna cost about 3g easily. The benefits are corrected geometry of suspension, lower center of gravity and more fine tuning. This may be out of league for most but i fully plan on doing this. Im not focused on power as of yet. without a way to control power in a road race car, power does nothing. Im focusing on building the car to handle like gixxer drews car. His is a fwd machine taking corners at speeds rwd and awd machines shouldnt be doing. I know its a combination of suspension, tires and in his case aerodynamics. Im also going to be using an awd car, in hopes of catching those damn evos. I may be the only one who thinks and will pay for modifications like this, but count me in if your willing to experiment! I hope to see these get built! Good luck and keep me posted!

 

[snowborder714]

This is what Kevin was alluding to earlier in this thread.

For getting both front and rear modified and having the car corner balanced, $3k seems really steep. Corner balancing should cost you around $300. You can send your front crossmember to RobiSpec and he'll modify it for you for under $500 (last I checked). He's already done 3-5 people's crossmembers on this site and has a jig set up for the modification. The only one I haven't heard anyone doing is modifying the rear.

Sorry to thread jack, P.

 

[99gst_racer]

Adjustable inboard pick-ups will be easy enough to implement. Ask and you shall receive.

I'll have pics of the prototype sometime in December. Just waiting on raw material and my lathe to show up right now. And I have another week of deer hunting yet.