TOB rattle = Crankwalk

[abakja1]

I posted before having a "rattling noise" in my 1G bellhousing. I basically have a 6-bolt 90 GSX with Act 2100 (5k on clutch) and newly rebuilt motor with 400 miles miles on it due to 1st crankwalk at 145k miles,...

Problem occurred in my garage as I was diagnosing and fixing my idle surge problem after I fixed an air leak problem too after putting 400miles on my new motor,..While my car was idling in my garage to fix idle surge, a "rattling noise" came out of nowhere with my car in neutral.

The rattling noise problem isnt there when I clutch in, so I thought either I had a bad OEM TOB or clutch springs on disc came off. Perhaps even the input shaft but I wasnt driving my car so why would tranny go bad? Especially if I wasnt having any shifting/grinding/ tranny problems anyways and with my car sitting and me not driving my car?...

So,.Bellhousing was taken off and I put in a new OEM, replaced badly worn clutch fork and fulcrum. Bolted everything back, started my car up and "rattling noise" still there. So I took off tranny again and inspected for loose bolts and checked the clutch springs,...,they were not loose and were ok,...Local club member with tranny experience even inspected the input shaft on my tranny too and it didnt seem bad,..When I took a look at the flywheel and tugged at it, it "MOVED" with play, although not much!! SHIT!! But, enough to hear a "thunk" when moved side to side and enough to hear/feel on crank pulley side too,..

I just had a complete rebuild with complete 6-bolt block prep and put in new Clevites. I reused my own crank and block, but had machine shop balance/hone etc and do things right to prepare my crank and block,..Machine shop didnt mention anything about the block being out of spec and they had done a few DSM blocks already,..So I thought everythng would be ok.

Without having another tranny to put in my car instead of my "rattling" tranny, there's no way to be sure crankwalk is the cause of the rattling or the tranny for "SURE". But local members in my area that came to help me fix/diagnose felt that the "rattling" is due to "walking" my engine has, and since that the "rattling noise" goes away when I clutch in, its probably because the TOB/clutch is putting pressure on the crank to make it stop "rattling". Hell,...just having the "play or movement" on my flywheel side to side isnt good news already on a 400 mile old engine,..

Any thoughts before I put another 1k into finding another block and fixing my car? Friends say to find another 6-bolt preferably a 92 that has never seen crankwalk to avoid the problem again and local members can "hook me up", but Im going to use "used engine parts" cause I cant afford a new block or crank.

I put in 5k + in my rebuild with new speed parts (turbo, FMIC etc) and to fix/build block (OEM parts, ARP etc), but I dont want to fix my engine again if I cant be sure if "crankwalk" will pop up again in the future,..this car is my baby and too much memories come/go with it since I am original owner since 1990, and the car is in excellent shape. But I am at a crossroad right now to whether dump more $ into my DSM or loosing my baby forever,...

Any help appreciated
Kevin

 

[abakja1]

Im still looking for answers and still need help,..

I know I havent been the only one who has had a "rattling noise" in their tranny and the noise would go away when they clutched in,..Some have fixed it with input shaft bearings, but no one has really answered the question to the problem,...So I wonder if my crankwalk is the "source" to the "rattling noise" and if maybe CW is the problem to other members who is having a "rattling noise" and havent found out why,....

Also, anyone got any suggestions on where to get a good bottom end 6 bolt? Basically I would have to get it shipped to Honolulu, Hawaii too, so anybody with good experiences with shipping/ turnaround and prices can suggest what website to point me to? Ive checked FFWDConnection and JacksonAutoMachine too,..

Basically I would want what I have on my rebuilt 400 mile old 1G 6 bolt CW'd block I have now,. A place to ship an assembled block with 1G rods w/2G pistons or similiar as I like the better torque, strong reliable bearings (have Clevites on my rebuilt block, but are ACLs better?), removed balance shafts, ARP for reliability, and a crank...

I want a strong block that I can rely on my 90 GSX with Evo16G turbo, FMIC, stage 1 head, 2 1/2 full exh, ported EVO ex manifold, 550 RC, 190 Walbro, S-AFC 2, etc,..

thank you
Kevin

 

[SpooledGSX98]

Im just 17 so im gonna give this a shot, this is my first advanced tech post.

www.MagnusMotorsports.com has race prepped blocks (probably 1Gs too) if im not mistaken. They also have a very in depth article on theories of the cause of crankwalk, search around on that and you might be able to link a few things together that'll help you find out what went wrong. www.machv.com carries tons of OEM parts that you could look into, 1Gs & 2Gs. The only thing that makes me confused about your situation is that i didnt think 1G 6 bolts were known to walk..it can happen..just not as common as a 7 bolt.

Could you describe the sound it was making by any chance? Like what type of material interferance do you think it is? Metal on metal, etc....I have noticed a repititous "tick" which is comming from my engine...leaning towards the timing side of the block (i havent taken an in-depth search to figure it out)...it "ticks" in rythem so i could also use some help figuring out what thats all about. It "ticks" about 20 times...then stops for about 30 seconds and begins the pattern again...just a faint tick, only while at OT. But enough of me stealing your thread.

I wish there was more i could do to help, let me know if it did any good or wasted your time.
or :thumbdown

 

[bigjangin]

before you go any further, drop the oil pan and check for endplay. You either need a dial caliper, or you can use feeler gauges but I prefer the caliper.

Crankwalking so soon after a rebuild points to an improperly installled/aligned thrust bearing. Who assembled the motor? Were you using ARP main studs or stock main bolts? Were all clearances checked? Did the machine shop align hone the mains?

For vendors, I would look at magnus and ffwd connection. Shipping might be a little expensive though all the way to hawaii. Good luck

 

[Sotarts]

Weird. I think I have the same exact rotational-rattling-grinding noise. It's only at low idle RPM. The noise is only while I'm not moving. As far as I remember, the noise is there even with clutch pressed in, but while I'm still not moving. Noise disappears when revving up in neutral. The noise is NOT ALWAYS there for me. Sometimes the rattle is REALLY disgusting, feels like the motor is about to fall to pieces, or something... Noise is NEVER there on the move, while in any gear.

Few weeks ago, my clutch engagement went to sh*t, feels like pressure is lost. I don't have the same grip anymore, was slipping when I pushed it in 3rd with boost... And that's when THE NOISE DISAPPEARED! WTF! I was happy with the noise absence, but was not happy with clutch feeling like it's barely engaging (way at the top--worse than my stock Laser clutch with 84k miles) and slipping... I drove the Laser today and feels as if the Laser has MORE pedal effort.

Few days ago... I started having more grip with the clutch. Much better engagement when shifted to second, when pushing it, no slip in 3rd anymore when really pushing it. Still the same very sh*tty clutch feel. BUT THE NOISE HAS COME BACK! WTF!

This is beyond me and no one is suggesting anything.

The noise is something... as if a drill was run at VERY low RPM, with very rough grinding bit attached to to it, inside a thick-layered chamber... deep/dull/low noise too. Feels/sounds as if it is coming from transmission.

I have absolutely no other drivability issues. Car is perfectly fine otherwise. Boosts happy, hauls ass, performs awesome.

This is a '90 AWD, stock 6-bolt with 130k miles, Clutch Masters #2500 clutch. Transmission supposedly rebuilt few thousdand miles or few years back (can't remember). I've owned the car for 7 months now.

I'm waiting for it to fall apart.

 

[1gTURD]

I had the same problem before with a 1990 fwd turbo laser. After the rebuild (align hone/arp harware etc etc) the flywheel would move in and out if you were to grab it and yank on it in and out (not side to side). It would move so bad, the starter would ring because the flywheel would be so far away from the starter gear while enguaning. The transmission was making the same noise you described before and after the new motor. I was told it was the input shaft bearing inside the case and when there is no load on teh bearing (neutral) it can make noise 85% of the time then when the clutch is depressed and puts a load on the input shaft it will go away almost every time, also when the clutch is out and your driving you will not hear the noise. It is very common to mistake the noise for a TOB problem. Anyway i know my flywheel play wasnt healthy but the car ran a long time after the rebuild, and had great oil pressure too, it wasnt powerful or very fast (13.49 @ 102 mph) but the car runs its ass off around here somewhere today.

 

[abakja1]

bigjangin & 1gTurd,..

The "rattling sound" sounds like a pebbble or rock in a soda can at the top of the bellhousing,..right above the coolant refill cap,..

Bigjangin,..I was going to pull off the oil pan and check for clearance on the 400 mile old block, but just by pulling on the flywheel and having it move, its more "play" and already has enough to movement to be out of spec (clunk,..clunk) ,..True 1G 6-bolts shouldnt CW, but with 145k miles on my original block and cause the 1st crankwalk I had was really bad (way too much side-to-side movement). I dont know if the thrust bearings were installed correctly, but maybe reusing my orginal block was a bad idea. The machine shop didnt say anything about my block being out of spec, but they have done a few DSM blocks on a few of our local club members so I trusted them,...the machine shop also assembled the block too with all the ARP and Clevite parts I bought,..Block was decked, honed, balanced, etc..as well as my crank,...

1gTurd,..I had a local club member check my input shaft as he has done a few tranny rebuilds,..His opinion was that the shaft felt ok and questioned that why would my input shaft go bad since the "rattling sound" came about while at idle and not during a drive. I never had a problem with my tranny/shifting either and I thought I had bad clutch springs, fulcrum, fork, or TOB, etc,...I replace the fulcrum, fork, and TOB, with no luck,..pulled on the flywheel after inspecting the clutch plate for loose/missing springs since it was exposed and the flywheel MOVED!!,..

So, maybe I should reinstall the tranny and test my luck like 1gTurd did? I guess I can put things back and if the noise gets worse and can pull the tranny off again and check if the flywheel moves even more,...

Anymore suggestions?

Kevin A.

 

[Tevenor]

Most crankwalk situations after a rebuild occur because of builder error. If you have enough endplay to feel it move and visually see it, you are toast. Do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars.

 

[ItsStockOfficer]

Its walking at least 30 thou, prolly 60....Its new engine time.

 

[BOBS90TURBO]

Over the last couple of years it seems I have read about so many brand new built engines going bad, I was thinking about an engine build on one of mine, but it seems the easiest way to go is buying a low milege JDM engine, seems the factory built engines allways last so long. Anyway sorry about your motor.

 

[bigjangin]

Most crankwalk situations after a rebuild occur because of builder error. If you have enough endplay to feel it move and visually see it, you are toast. Do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars.

This man speaks the truth.

If everything is done right when the engine is built, it wont walk with 400 miles on it.

Did you use arp main studs? Did you have the block align honed? And probably most important to know would be if they installed the thrust bearing correctly, but you have no way of knowing that.

Do you know the condition of the crank after it crankwalked the first time? Did the shop just polish it, or did they turn it?(you shouldnt turn a 6 bolt crank btw)

 

[nined2tsi]

abakja1, I have what sounds to be like the exact same problem that you're having. Sounds like a chunk of metal is just rattling around. It started one day when I started the car. Thought my motor was gone but with more inspection its coming right from my bell housing. Pulled the tranny replaced TOB because I spun it and it rattled like a bearing in the TOB was bad. Replaced it, put everything back together and same damn thing. There goes 8 hours of work. So now its time for more inspection. I was thinking (hoping) its something to do with the clutch/pp/flywheel. I didnt even feel for movement anywhere because I was deadset on it being the TOB. The shaft that goes to the t-case has a little movement that I noticed when installing the tranny.

Have you or anyone else replaced the clutch/pp/flywheel? Dont think thats the problem? Like aovsi said, its not there all the time. Push in the clutch, MOST of the time it goes away. Drive around (get it warm?) and it goes away SOMETIMES. So have you guys thought of anything or found anything out?

O, also when it gets warmed up, the tranny or something starts whining. Does yours whine at all? The whine is like when you go fast in reverse but it does it in every gear but 5th. Started with just 2nd gear but then progressed to all but 5th.

My car does have 169k miles on it. 30k hard, high boosting miles. Mobil One since new. New/used tranny that was in excellent condition. My head blew prolly 1500mi ago, replaced that and it ran great. Still to this day runs better than ever with my new supra sm, other than this damn noise/problem.

 

[Sotarts]

If the rattling comes back, it NEVER goes away by pressing in the clutch.

It goes away ONLY when revving it up past 1k RPM or while in gear.

 

[abakja1]

When I rebuilt the motor, I put all ARP parts in,..main/rods/head,..Also, the machine shop did polish my crank and also honed and resurfaced the block. I really dont know if the thrust bearings were aligned correctly,..I could talk to them as they did the assembly, but that would mean taking my block out for them to dissasemble and inspect it,..I dont have that luxury as i am going to replace my clutch disc and bellhousing so i can get my car out of my garage,..

I really dont know what other symptoms my car would have as the "rattle" came about when my car was idling in my garage,..I was swapping out TBs and ISCs and trying to get my car to idle correctly at the time when the "rattling" began. So I never drove my car for the 2 months it was sitting in my garage while searching/installing parts. This too after trying to fix a boost leak (that why I put in 2g TB and got idle surges and just back 90 TB and this solved my problem of idle surge). So basically why I have only 400miles after Dec 2003 on my car...I havent even broken in my engine, nor tuned with S-AFC when I put in new 16g, FMIC, 550's, etc,...

Basically, when I cold start my car it sounds fine or normal. Sometimes the "rattle" is there, sometimes not,..But it'll come if I free rev in neutral if rattle isnt there at the start,..Rattling does go away when I do clutch in though,..Also, Ive never driven my car after this "problem" occured so I dont know if the sound will go away or if I have any tranny issues when the car gets warm. Also, Ive never had any tranny or shift problems prior to engine rebuild before either,..In fact, shifts were great,....

I tried to fix/diagnose the problem since my car was in the garage and that led to changing to new OEM TOB, clutch fork, fulcrum, inspecting for loose/damage diaphram on clutch plate and looking at the clutch springs,..When all these variables checked out ok, a friend who knows trannys inspected my input shaft for play and to him "felt" ok and he felt it should have gone bad since I wasnt driving my car at the time nor was having any tranny problems,..

So since clutch plate was out, we tugged at the flywheel and that is when it moved,..So we felt that the rattle is due to the crank moving. It has enough play to move side to side and hear a thunk when it reaches either end,..

So, next week I am just gonna put back the tranny till I can save for a newly assembled block from mainland (gonna cost me more to ship to Hawaii but at least I can trust it), and see whether the "rattle" gets any worse when I drive my car around my area,...Shame too, cause my block has the balanced shaft removed, ARP parts, 2g pistons on 1g rods , and $700 worth of labor and parts by machne shop,..So at least I can salvage some of those parts and get some money back,..Plus machine shop can inspect the block too when I get the new block from mainland put in and maybe get some compensation from them,..

Kevin

 

[Eclips3]

same prob here too guys. i was told it was my end shaft bearing. does that sound right?

the rattleing sound in my car goes away after pressing in the clutch. so im thinking its the flywheel or actual clutch itself.

 

[abakja1]

If you have rattling going on in your bellhousing and if its not the OEM TOB, fulcrum or clutch fork wear,..Then I would pull of the clutch plate and inspect the diaphram "fingers" if they are bent, and then check the clutch springs and making sure they are still are in the clutch disc,..

If you are getting a really loud rattling going on with clutch engagement problems, club members here in the 808 area ran into problems with the clutch springs popping off the disc and rattlling around between the plate and housing,...

In my case I checked all that, so only variables are the trans itself or the CW,..

Kevin

 

[nined2tsi]

So how hard is it really to replace the input shaft bearing? Ive heard that its easy then I heard its pretty involed in taking the tranny apart and remeasuring everything. I can move the shaft side to side and there is some play. I can hear it, see and feel it move. Its not terribly bad but the spec is like .05mm isnt it? Id figure it moves MAYBE .5mm give or take. I need a caliper. Also I tried disconnecting the bell housing from the rest of the tranny and cant get it apart. The gear shifters are connected somehow. Any thoughts?

 

[myblack98gst]

recovery of a crankwalked/spun bearing 4g63 just isnt a good idea..

I bought a Very freshly built 6 bolt from a friend, I put it in my car it lasted for 400 miles and the motor locked up due to a spun #3 rod bearing.

I pulled the motor got a different crank sent it all to the machine shop they did all the work and said it should be fine.

put it together 1,000 miles later I am getting the spun bearing sound again!!
this time I catch it in time and do not have the money to pull the motor so I just replaced the rod bearings in the car..

Before I got the finances (2.5 months) to build a new 6 bolt using a different block/ crank and built internals. I put 4 sets of rod bearings and 1 new set of thrust bearings and it needed thurst bearings again before I pulled it..

all of that came from a oil passage in the block that was clogged some place. and not getting enough oil to the thrust bearing which also supplies oil to the #3 rod.

when I assembled the new motor I spent the money at the machine shop and had EVERYTHING done.. and before I assembled I ran fluid through ALL the block passages to make sure it was clear.. this motor is holding together fine with over 3,000 on it and boosting 20+ daily.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[gotswrv]

abakja1 ,
Get a $15 mag base dial indicator. Check end play using a real measuring tool. Take actions needed after results are found.

If the trans is still out(I got tired of reading you explaining the same thing over again) it should be easy to get a good number off the flywheel. Stick the base the the wheel as it will be square, smooth, and metal. Put the indicator on the block in a place that is as square to the flywheel as possible. Try and make sure the shaft is as perpendicular to the surface as possible. Then move the crank prying on the pulley side in both direction with a friend watching the gauge.
Going off sound and feel is something not many can do. None who do are successfully all the time. Hell, alot of persons using measurements still can't get it together...

C&P, your car...

Good Luck,
Sam

 

[90AWDTalon]

I posted before having a "rattling noise" in my 1G bellhousing. I basically have a 6-bolt 90 GSX with Act 2100 (5k on clutch) and newly rebuilt motor with 400 miles miles on it due to 1st crankwalk at 145k miles,...

Problem occurred in my garage as I was diagnosing and fixing my idle surge problem after I fixed an air leak problem too after putting 400miles on my new motor,..While my car was idling in my garage to fix idle surge, a "rattling noise" came out of nowhere with my car in neutral.

The rattling noise problem isnt there when I clutch in, so I thought either I had a bad OEM TOB or clutch springs on disc came off. Perhaps even the input shaft but I wasnt driving my car so why would tranny go bad? Especially if I wasnt having any shifting/grinding/ tranny problems anyways and with my car sitting and me not driving my car?...

So,.Bellhousing was taken off and I put in a new OEM, replaced badly worn clutch fork and fulcrum. Bolted everything back, started my car up and "rattling noise" still there. So I took off tranny again and inspected for loose bolts and checked the clutch springs,...,they were not loose and were ok,...Local club member with tranny experience even inspected the input shaft on my tranny too and it didnt seem bad,..When I took a look at the flywheel and tugged at it, it "MOVED" with play, although not much!! SHIT!! But, enough to hear a "thunk" when moved side to side and enough to hear/feel on crank pulley side too,..

I just had a complete rebuild with complete 6-bolt block prep and put in new Clevites. I reused my own crank and block, but had machine shop balance/hone etc and do things right to prepare my crank and block,..Machine shop didnt mention anything about the block being out of spec and they had done a few DSM blocks already,..So I thought everythng would be ok.

Without having another tranny to put in my car instead of my "rattling" tranny, there's no way to be sure crankwalk is the cause of the rattling or the tranny for "SURE". But local members in my area that came to help me fix/diagnose felt that the "rattling" is due to "walking" my engine has, and since that the "rattling noise" goes away when I clutch in, its probably because the TOB/clutch is putting pressure on the crank to make it stop "rattling". Hell,...just having the "play or movement" on my flywheel side to side isnt good news already on a 400 mile old engine,..

Any thoughts before I put another 1k into finding another block and fixing my car? Friends say to find another 6-bolt preferably a 92 that has never seen crankwalk to avoid the problem again and local members can "hook me up", but Im going to use "used engine parts" cause I cant afford a new block or crank.

I put in 5k + in my rebuild with new speed parts (turbo, FMIC etc) and to fix/build block (OEM parts, ARP etc), but I dont want to fix my engine again if I cant be sure if "crankwalk" will pop up again in the future,..this car is my baby and too much memories come/go with it since I am original owner since 1990, and the car is in excellent shape. But I am at a crossroad right now to whether dump more $ into my DSM or loosing my baby forever,...

Any help appreciated
Kevin

I was having the same rattling at idle with the clutch pedal out, as soon as I pushed the clutch in the sound went away. The rattling sounded like it was coming from the bellhousing area. It was kind of a chatter and rattle almost sounded like there was loose rocks in there. While driving friday the rattling got much louder and was there at all times no matter what gear, clutch in or out, driving or idleing. Then there was a loud sound like something broke. Now when I start the car and let it idle the rattling is gone, but there is a very loud and violent sounding thunk in time with the rpm's. It sounds like with every revolution something is trying to break through the engine.

You guys are talking about crankwalk and spun bearings, does it sound like this could be my problem?

 

[pinknuggit]

When you guys are talking about "thrust bearing", you're talking about (on a 6 bolt motor) the center bearing that has its own maincap? The one that has the ridge on the outside of the bearing that forms a 90 degree angle and goes perpendicular to the maincap for about half an inch?

I'm building a 6 bolt right now, and i purchased oversise King brand bearings (crank was turned .25mm), and when i dropped the crank in there, it had a significant amount of sideplay. Something around the neighborhood of maybe 5 thousandths..
I've read that the 7 bolt main journals are narrower than a 6 bolt? could it be possible that i have the main bearings for a 7 bolt motor? How much narrower are 7 bolt main journals than 6 bolt?
I told the guy at the counter that i needed the bearings for a 1990 motor, maybe he gave me the wrong ones?
What is the spec for crankshaft sideplay on a 6 bolt motor?

 

[bigjangin]

When you guys are talking about "thrust bearing", you're talking about (on a 6 bolt motor) the center bearing that has its own maincap? The one that has the ridge on the outside of the bearing that forms a 90 degree angle and goes perpendicular to the maincap for about half an inch?

I'm building a 6 bolt right now, and i purchased oversise King brand bearings (crank was turned .25mm), and when i dropped the crank in there, it had a significant amount of sideplay. Something around the neighborhood of maybe 5 thousandths..
I've read that the 7 bolt main journals are narrower than a 6 bolt? could it be possible that i have the main bearings for a 7 bolt motor? How much narrower are 7 bolt main journals than 6 bolt?
I told the guy at the counter that i needed the bearings for a 1990 motor, maybe he gave me the wrong ones?
What is the spec for crankshaft sideplay on a 6 bolt motor?

Yes the thrust bearing is the bearing that goes in the middle. I dont have my manual or cd handy, I only know the 2g spec offhand is .002 - .007, with the limit at .0098 I believe. Explain what you mean when you say significant endplay. You shouldnt see it move. Get an exact measuerment.

 

[BoostinAWD]

Mines been doing the same thing for the past 3 years, not crankwalk. Just checked my block.

Its a problem with the tranny.

 

[Tweak95gst]

I posted before having a "rattling noise" in my 1G bellhousing. I basically have a 6-bolt 90 GSX with Act 2100 (5k on clutch) and newly rebuilt motor with 400 miles miles on it due to 1st crankwalk at 145k miles,...

Problem occurred in my garage as I was diagnosing and fixing my idle surge problem after I fixed an air leak problem too after putting 400miles on my new motor,..While my car was idling in my garage to fix idle surge, a "rattling noise" came out of nowhere with my car in neutral.

The rattling noise problem isnt there when I clutch in, so I thought either I had a bad OEM TOB or clutch springs on disc came off. Perhaps even the input shaft but I wasnt driving my car so why would tranny go bad? Especially if I wasnt having any shifting/grinding/ tranny problems anyways and with my car sitting and me not driving my car?...

So,.Bellhousing was taken off and I put in a new OEM, replaced badly worn clutch fork and fulcrum. Bolted everything back, started my car up and "rattling noise" still there. So I took off tranny again and inspected for loose bolts and checked the clutch springs,...,they were not loose and were ok,...Local club member with tranny experience even inspected the input shaft on my tranny too and it didnt seem bad,..When I took a look at the flywheel and tugged at it, it "MOVED" with play, although not much!! SHIT!! But, enough to hear a "thunk" when moved side to side and enough to hear/feel on crank pulley side too,..

I just had a complete rebuild with complete 6-bolt block prep and put in new Clevites. I reused my own crank and block, but had machine shop balance/hone etc and do things right to prepare my crank and block,..Machine shop didnt mention anything about the block being out of spec and they had done a few DSM blocks already,..So I thought everythng would be ok.

Without having another tranny to put in my car instead of my "rattling" tranny, there's no way to be sure crankwalk is the cause of the rattling or the tranny for "SURE". But local members in my area that came to help me fix/diagnose felt that the "rattling" is due to "walking" my engine has, and since that the "rattling noise" goes away when I clutch in, its probably because the TOB/clutch is putting pressure on the crank to make it stop "rattling". Hell,...just having the "play or movement" on my flywheel side to side isnt good news already on a 400 mile old engine,..

Any thoughts before I put another 1k into finding another block and fixing my car? Friends say to find another 6-bolt preferably a 92 that has never seen crankwalk to avoid the problem again and local members can "hook me up", but Im going to use "used engine parts" cause I cant afford a new block or crank.

I put in 5k + in my rebuild with new speed parts (turbo, FMIC etc) and to fix/build block (OEM parts, ARP etc), but I dont want to fix my engine again if I cant be sure if "crankwalk" will pop up again in the future,..this car is my baby and too much memories come/go with it since I am original owner since 1990, and the car is in excellent shape. But I am at a crossroad right now to whether dump more $ into my DSM or loosing my baby forever,...

Any help appreciated
Kevin

I just wanted to put this in this thread because I thought this might help someone. I did alot of research on crankwalk I have found through many resources that ACT clutchs are very very bad for causing crankwalk. The engagement of any ACT clutch is to harsh for the crank bearings. It causes your center crank bearing to weaken alot faster then most other clutches. I know alot of people like ACT clutches but there are many other clutches out there that give as good if not better performance then the ACTs. Centerforce make a Dual Friction Street Racing clutch that is perfect for DSMs. I hope this helps someone out.

 

[Sotarts]

I just wanted to put this in this thread because I thought this might help someone. I did alot of research on crankwalk I have found through many resources that ACT clutchs are very very bad for causing crankwalk. The engagement of any ACT clutch is to harsh for the crank bearings. It causes your center crank bearing to weaken alot faster then most other clutches. I know alot of people like ACT clutches but there are many other clutches out there that give as good if not better performance then the ACTs. Centerforce make a Dual Friction Street Racing clutch that is perfect for DSMs. I hope this helps someone out.

ACT clutches are not bad. They just provide people with more clamping force--needed for those who are making more power with AWD cars. I think you've got the wrong impression from your "research".