TOB rattle = Crankwalk

[bigjangin]

I just wanted to put this in this thread because I thought this might help someone. I did alot of research on crankwalk I have found through many resources that ACT clutchs are very very bad for causing crankwalk. The engagement of any ACT clutch is to harsh for the crank bearings. It causes your center crank bearing to weaken alot faster then most other clutches. I know alot of people like ACT clutches but there are many other clutches out there that give as good if not better performance then the ACTs. Centerforce make a Dual Friction Street Racing clutch that is perfect for DSMs. I hope this helps someone out.

 

[dhermann]

I have a 1990 talon tsi awd with a 6 bolt engine, My car makes the same bearing rattle noise. It used to make it only sometimes when the engine and tranny were cold. I thought that it must have been the TOB so I took it to a tranny shop and because it didn't have time to cool down from my 25 mile drive to the shop it didn't make any noise. They said they put the mechanics stethiscope up to the bell housing and could just bearly make out slight bearing noise and that I had no problem. A few months later it started to make the noise all the time, but when I push in the clutch at all the noise stops. The tranny even makes the noise with the clutch pushed in when I am driving, if the car is still rolling like up to a stop sign with the clutch pushed in, and the noise stops when the car quits rolling. My engine has no crankwalk at all and it turned out to be the input shaft bearing, I also replaced the TOB while I was in there for good measure. I have thought about putting an ACT 2600 clutch in but with all I have read about it being so hard on both the crank and the tranny I have decided to go with the CenterForce DF instead, after all I am not racing my car so I don't really need all that much.

Also, I didn't know that 1G 6 bolts could even get crank walk barring the machine shop badly messing up like the other guys have stated. You do definitely want to get the end play measured though to be sure but it sounds like you have crankwalk, you shouldn't be able to feel any end play at all in the crank especially when you pull from both ends and get the same result. If the crank end play is in spec or even slightly out of, the movement would be so small you probably wouldn't even be able to feel it let alone hear any clunk noise. Anyway, good luck with the whole situation and if it was the machinist's fault maybe he will step up and take responsibilty for it.

 

[Jlb8434]

Man I have an 90' AWD TSI that has just been rebiult, has probley about 1000 miles on it. One day it just started makeing this Jacked up noise ( one like you all are discribing). When i pull in the clutch it goes away, when i let it out it comes back. i have seince then removed the tranny and looked in the tranny for defects nothing, looked at the TOB nothing, clutch in fine too. I grabed the clutch and it moved alittle not back in forth like the crank was moving but more like the the flywheel bolts came loose. I am taking the clutch off tomarrow to see if those bolts are loose i will let you all know what i find.


every link i have looked at with this same prob everyone has something to say but no one has an direct ansawer. thanks guys

also, i have an ACT 2600 clutch and the shop rebiult the motor balanced, honed all that stuff. so we are in the same boat.

 

[Jlb8434]

alright, i removed the clutch and all of the flywheel bolts were loose, one was all the way out. I torqured them down and all is good. i am now putting it all back together.

 

[ChrisFlo]

SPOOLEDGSX98-


I have this same issue with the clicking noise. I talked to a guy that posts on this forum, and he suggested that it is what is called "lifter tick". Apparently it is pretty common on dsm's, he was not sure what causes it, but assured me that it is harmless. (assuming we're hearing the same clicking sound) If you'd like to talk to him, his username for this forum is Herostar.