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Tire discussion and choices [Merged 11-7] which size what tires tiretire

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speedy_talon28

15+ Year Contributor
364
3
Apr 1, 2006
elkhart, Indiana
Now, I know how to dismount and mount semi-truck tires and I don't think car tires are different but, I duno. I forget some steps on how to mount tires because it's been atleast 5 yrs since I did it so, if anybody would please post how to mount tires, I would really appreciate it. thanks
 
You mean like get them off? That would be...

1) With car on ground, start loosening the bolts. Not a lot, but itll be impossible to pop them with it up.
2) Jack up front or rear. Whatever suits your fancy.
3) Get all bolts off. Presto.

Get them on?

1) Lift tire, and align it.
2) Put it on and start hand tightening bolts.
3) Once hand tightened, lower car and use tire jack to tighten it up.
Presto.

And don't feel bad or anything. Until a year or two ago, I had no idea how to do it either.
 
speedy_talon28 said:
Now, I know how to dismount and mount semi-truck tires and I don't think car tires are different but, I duno. I forget some steps on how to mount tires because it's been atleast 5 yrs since I did it so, if anybody would please post how to mount tires, I would really appreciate it. thanks

Are you talking about mounting tires on the rims? By hand or by machine?

Either way you have to get both the beads to the inside of the lip of the wheel and figure out a way to inject enough air into the tire to make the beads seal up on the rim surface without the tire collapsing back in before enough air can be pumped in. A touchless machine is really your best bet, especially if they are low profile tires. Some rim designs require the tire to be mounted from the backside because the front lip is too large for the tire to stretch over it.

Don't forget to mount accordingly in the direction of rotation, or mount "inside" "outside" marked tires properly.
 
Don't even attempt it with modern tires. Regardless what a shop charges you to do it on their machines and how much that cuts into your TireRack savings, it's still a bargain. Not only in saving damage on you, but on the tires as well.
 
Defiant said:
Don't even attempt it with modern tires. Regardless what a shop charges you to do it on their machines and how much that cuts into your TireRack savings, it's still a bargain. Not only in saving damage on you, but on the tires as well.

thanks, I'll go to discount tires to have them mounted because I would hate to have my 215/44/17 damaged. :thumb:
 
Also make sure wherever you go they have the proper machine some people say they'll do it and they don't even have the right machine. You look in the shop and they are going at it with a pry bar and screw up your rim and tire. So make sure you look at the machine they'll be using before you getting it done.
 
fulanititoo8198 said:
Also make sure wherever you go they have the proper machine some people say they'll do it and they don't even have the right machine. You look in the shop and they are going at it with a pry bar and screw up your rim and tire. So make sure you look at the machine they'll be using before you getting it done.

On a "Touchless" machine, you are required to use a prybar to pull the the bead of the tire over the machine arm during dismounting. The machine arm is spaced away from the wheel and the arm is locked into place, the prybar is set on top of the arm and does not come in contact with the wheel, you still have to use a prybar. If you bring the guy a set of bubberbands, a prybar is bound to be used, they don't flex, hopefully the guy doing this knows what he is doing, lots of lube is the key.

On the other style machine that clamps on with the cone there should still be an should be an arm, if it does not have that attachment like mentioned above, I would think twice about letting them mount your wheels. When using the mounting style without the arm a prybar with a plastic insert is used to to act as the arm, the bar remains on the wheel while it rotates, possibly chipping paint or other damage.

Basically if you see an arm like attatchment that is attached to where the tech clamps the wheel in place you should be in decnet shape, it is really how much experience that the tech has in operating the machine that depends if your wheels get scratched or damaged.

OP- In the previous post I was under the impression that you knew how to operate these machines and were just a little rusty, but now that I think about it. I don't think you can mount a semi truck tire on a machine? I don't know... my experience is with light automotive. I also thought they may just be a set of steelies that you were going to throw some hub caps over. So I apoligize for telling you to hand mount your mint 17"s. Definately go to a shop and maybe see what style machine they use. At the local shop here, there is a large window where you can see the tech mounting the tires.
 
Auto RS T said:
On a "Touchless" machine, you are required to use a prybar to pull the the bead of the tire over the machine arm during dismounting. The machine arm is spaced away from the wheel and the arm is locked into place, the prybar is set on top of the arm and does not come in contact with the wheel, you still have to use a prybar. If you bring the guy a set of bubberbands, a prybar is bound to be used, they don't flex, hopefully the guy doing this knows what he is doing, lots of lube is the key.

On the other style machine that clamps on with the cone there should still be an should be an arm, if it does not have that attachment like mentioned above, I would think twice about letting them mount your wheels. When using the mounting style without the arm a prybar with a plastic insert is used to to act as the arm, the bar remains on the wheel while it rotates, possibly chipping paint or other damage.

Basically if you see an arm like attatchment that is attached to where the tech clamps the wheel in place you should be in decnet shape, it is really how much experience that the tech has in operating the machine that depends if your wheels get scratched or damaged.

OP- In the previous post I was under the impression that you knew how to operate these machines and were just a little rusty, but now that I think about it. I don't think you can mount a semi truck tire on a machine? I don't know... my experience is with light automotive. I also thought they may just be a set of steelies that you were going to throw some hub caps over. So I apoligize for telling you to hand mount your mint 17"s. Definately go to a shop and maybe see what style machine they use. At the local shop here, there is a large window where you can see the tech mounting the tires.

I did know how to use the machine to mount tires, the shop I worked at had a heavy-duty tire machine for semi-truck tires. That's was ok, I thought I confused you on the tire mounting question
 
I am going to buy four new tires for my 1st Gen Talon and i know that the tire bead size just has to be a 16. My question is how big can i go width wise? Also i would like to know what sizes of tires anyone has on their cars? Should i stick to the size that my tires are now? What looks the best in anyone's opinion. If anyone can post pics to show me different sizes they have that would also be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I'm pretty sure it is.. I bought my car with stock rims and it was 205/55/16, replaced the tires a couple times. Worked on a couple other dsms w/ same size wheels.
The link above verifies it, so does just about anywhere else. I think that grandad did switch out the tires on you :thumb:
Those are narrow tires, I'm surprised they fit good.
 
How wide can i go? Without it looking like the tires shouldnt have ever been near the car.
 
Stock rim 225 will bulge a lil, aftermarket rim varies according to wheel width. When you go to put tires on try 205/215/225 to see which is the best fit, tell them you just need to find the right width that i would like toput on, if they give you some bs tell them its my rim and i am buying the tires.
 
So wait a minute, you guys are telling me that none of you know what is the widest tire i could squeeze under it without looking like retarded like my friend Jim's sister.
 
I squeezed 215's on before when i got the set for free and had balding tires..
The stock wheels on the T/E/Ls are 6 inches (152.4mm) wide. The tires are fairly wide at 205mm or 215mm. This means that over 50mm (almost 2 inches!) of tire width at the tread must be pinched down at the rim. Structurally, since the sidewalls of the tire are angled inward, there is less ability for them to withstand additional loads from cornering forces, so they "roll over" or "mush" at the limit.

For maximum performance, I've uncovered two rules of thumb in the course of research: 1) the tread width and wheel width should be about the same, and 2) in no case should the wheel width be less than 70% of the tread width. Doing the numbers, 215mm tires are right on the borderline of the 70% limit, and 205mm tires not much better. Yikes! Since you don't want to reduce your tread width (especially down to 150mm!), you probably want to increase your wheel width.

As for putting wider tires on the stock wheels, proceed with caution. While a higher performance tire will probably give a bit better performance, the wheel width will still cause mushing at the cornering limits. BTW, a magazine article a few years back did a report comparing 1) stock wheels and tires, 2) stock wheels and wider tires, and 3) wider wheels and wider tires, using a VW Scirocco. Naturally, the combination (3) did the best, but the most improvement in lateral g's happened when the wider wheels were put on, not when the wider tires were put on the stock wheels.
 
i have 225/50/16 pirelli p-zero neros on my talon they have amazing fitment while keeping pretty close to stock tire height... the way to calculate the height is take 205 or 225 whatever your width is and multiply it by the second number in percentage...for instance a 205/55/16 tire: 205 mm wide, 205 x .55 = 112.75 mm high. mine are 225 mm wide, 225 x .50 = 112.5 mm high, so you are only losing a 1/4 mm of height, but gaining 20mm in width. they dont bulge out past the fenders, nor do they rub on the front struts, and a noticable difference in handling. :thumb: :thumb:
 
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