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2g Wheels and Tires Size Questions [merged] fit fitment

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Going with what was said by Calan and using the tire calculator. It shows that the 235\40\18 would be extremely close to your prior tire size. So the rubbings that you have now, if any, would probably be the same with the new tire...I believe.

Yeah.. they're close. The 235/40/18's are a bit taller, but not much. But then again, it may not take much to rub.

I mentioned 235/35/18's because they would be a bit shorter and give a little margin of safety, at least height wise. You still need to check the offset though to avoid rubbing because of the added width.

Either way, you have very little side wall on a whole bunch of rim ... hope you don't have to deal with speed bumps often :p
 
I'm running 235/40/18 with 8" rim and 41mm offset. With the car lowered 1.5 inches and corrected for camber the rear lip had to be shaved a little.
 
So Paul, you don't have any problems with rubbing or anything? You said your car is lowered 1.5 inches and mine will be only lowered 1.3 inches, so shaving the rear lip shouldn't be a problem for me? Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
Cutting the rear fender lip is not recommended. It's a structual part of the unibody chassis. We used to cut the lip into tabs to make it easier to bend out of the way but even that has the risk of contributing to structural failure by creating stress risers.

Just bend the lips out of the way with a fender roller or bat.

235/40/18's with rolled rear fenders and +40mm offset are fine. You won't notice a difference in your speedometer. When you go to 255's you will want to drop down to a 35 profile.
 
yes they are the same model wheels. the 8.5's are surprisingly 16 dollars cheaper than the 7.5, that's why i'm asking :)
 
I have a 95 talon AWD with a widebody. I bought volk gt-c from a widebody 350z. They are 20x9.5 and 20x10.5 -7 ET, obviously I cant use the current tires on there because they were stageered. What is the best size I can use for this setup? Thanks in advance.
 
It's hard to say since most of us use 17" and 18" wheels and are more performance oriented. Just by hard numbers alone, 285/25/20 are what gives the closest correct diameter to 25.5". Whether they fit and work within the wheel well will depend on body work and suspension. Be forewarned, there is very little rubber there to act as a buffer to the wheel, so even an innocent speed bump could result in a damaged wheel.
 
Sorry to interrupt, but could someone explain to me why there are stickies at the top of the sub-forum list?

OK, back to discussing staggered 20s on an AWD DSM.

- Jtoby
 
Also I did a little math and found out if I use F--235/30/20 R-265/25/20. The difference is only 0.25 inches. in overall diameter.
 
As quoted from http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=18

"As an example of different tire diameters resulting from tires worn to different tread depths, we'll compare two 225/45R17-sized tires, a new tire with its original tread depth of 10/32-inch and a second tire worn to 8/32-inch of remaining tread depth. The new 225/45R17-sized tire has a calculated diameter of 24.97", a circumference of 78.44" and will roll 835 times each mile. The same tire worn to 8/32-inch of remaining tread depth is calculated to be 1/8" shorter with a diameter of 24.84", have a circumference of 78.04" and will roll 839 times per mile. While the difference of 1/8" in overall diameter doesn't seem excessive, the resulting 4 revolutions per mile difference can place a continuous strain on the tires and vehicle's driveline. Obviously, the greater the difference in the tires' circumferences, the greater the resulting strain."

You do not want any difference in circumference on our AWD cars.
 
Good article and yes I shouldnt be putting staggeres wheels on a AWD vehicle but I got volk wheels for a very very good price and it fit the widebody perfect. There will be a greater difference in oversll diameter with tire wear but my car is not daily driven so I'm not that concerned about it. Right now the OD difference is only 0.25 so thats a hardly noticable difference from stock but that is the limit.
 
As much as I like the Tire Rack, the idea that a half-percent difference is going to hurt the driveline is nonsense. Do you know what the difference is when you take a corner? A heck of a lot more than that.

If you own an STi and drive on dry pavement with the center locked, I can see issues. Otherwise, this is just a scare-tactic to sell tires. The VC in the center of a DSM can handle a half-percent difference.

- Jtoby
 
As much as I like the Tire Rack, the idea that a half-percent difference is going to hurt the driveline is nonsense. Do you know what the difference is when you take a corner? A heck of a lot more than that.

If you own an STi and drive on dry pavement with the center locked, I can see issues. Otherwise, this is just a scare-tactic to sell tires. The VC in the center of a DSM can handle a half-percent difference.

- Jtoby

So are you saying that a DSM would handle it better than an STI? Anyway I did some more math and found for the front-225/30/20 and rear R-275/25/20 and the overall diameter is only 0.10 difference from stock. Actually the front is dead on and the rear is only 0.10 difference. I dont see this being an issue as long as I keep tires inflated and always with fresh tread. I'll report to you guys when the differential takes a crap if it does.:thumb:
 
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