The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Resolved Time-sert with head studs?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

OptimusBlaine

Proven Member
35
8
Jul 13, 2020
Cottonwood, California
Hello guys I have a stripped out head bolt that I’m planning on putting in a time sert but I am wondering if it would be better to use head studs in this case with the time sert any one have previous experiences similar to this . Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I gotta ask, How did you strip a cast iron head bolt hole? Is it completely wrecked or just a thread tool could chase?
 
I bought this 2g with issues. I figured possible blown headgasket not a worse case scenario. I pulled the valve cover off and found a different head bolt units place. I put a wrench on it to see how tight it was and it was super soft so I just pulled it out . I have old head bolts and I can’t get one to tighten up

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Hold up....somebody tried to use a hardware store bolt as a head bolt???
It diesnt even look the same thread pitch or diameter. I'd check the block threads. Bolt may be jacked up but block could be fine or at least easily cleaned up.
 
While I've never used at Time Cert for a head stud, my previous experience with them were very positive and I think it would be an acceptable fix if done correctly to their specifications. For further confidence, you can contact them and they should be able to tell you if it can handle the loading you will be putting on it.

Most thread locks do not hold up with heat, so this isn't going to help you out much. Though the Time Cert is self locking if installed correctly.

If possible, the best way to do this is to pull the block and have a machine shop do this along with freshening up the engine. If a previous owner did this, you are probably going to want to disassemble anything that has ever been apart.
 
I can’t get either one of these bolts to grab threads in the block. I think the block is jacked right now. My current plan is to order head studs and a time sert and maybe some Loctite
The first bolt (hardware) is obviously jacked. The 2nd one looks like a different diameter and thread pitch. Verify the two. Verify that hole hasn't been drilled/modified etc. Try the head bolt in another hole. Should be 11mm on a 2g.
 
If it's 7 bolt, the head bolt diameter is 11mm, why don't you try to go with the larger diameter 6 bolt 12mm head studs by drilling and re-tapping first? That may solve the issue. In case if the damage is more than that, then you can time-sert it. I have time-serted my 1g (6 bolt) for the 1/2" head studs, but it didn't require if it's 7 bolt. 7 bolt has more material around the head bolt holes.
 
I’d like to add, always run studs, it’s a far superior fastening technique.
I like that idea

It’s ugly. But I mean it’s not to bad . Looks like the previous guy put in new valves. You can see the coolant leaking in 1 exhaust that’s also where my compression was low. 140, 140, 140, 120. And the timing belt was loose I’m missing bolts. Fml. Also so much oil and carbon in my intake manifold what the hell.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
So the stock bolts only go just partially into the block I ordered some arp head studs and to my surprise you can fasten down much further than the threads that are messed up. So I’m hoping once the studs arrive I can secure them without any issue . I’ll keep you posted . Today I did some clean up instead. I Painted my stock manifold. Cleaned the block and head. I’m also going to strip the valve cover his week it has 200 layers of paint on it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
So the stock bolts only go just partially into the block I ordered some arp head studs and to my surprise you can fasten down much further than the threads that are messed up. So I’m hoping once the studs arrive I can secure them without any issue . I’ll keep you posted . Today I did some clean up instead. I Painted my stock manifold. Cleaned the block and head. I’m also going to strip the valve cover his week it has 200 layers of paint on it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I would chase all the bolt holes and blow them out. Did you compare the threads and diameter to that hardware bolt?
 
They’re the same size but the threads are really course and have litterly smooth shaven about 1/4 inch off the threads in the block . The bolt just spins and doesn’t grab anything. Studs should go down far past the missing threads and snug up . 🤞
 
I ordered some arp head studs and to my surprise you can fasten down much further than the threads that are messed up. So I’m hoping once the studs arrive I can secure them without any issue
Shouldn't do that. You may regret by damaging the stud side threads too. As everyone has told you that you at least should chase first to see how it is.
Studs should go down far past the missing threads and snug up . 🤞
Even if you could insert the stud bolt, if there is missing threads, it won't work as it should.
 
Shouldn't do that. You may regret by damaging the stud side threads too. As everyone has told you that you at least should chase first to see how it is.

Even if you could insert the stud bolt, if there is missing threads, it won't work as it should.
Agreed . There dosnt seem to be an issue with regular bolts passing the missing thread section and fastening all the way down when there is no head. I’m going to measure how much is actually missing and how much further the studs go before finalize anything
 
Okay update if anyone’s following. Installed arp head studs and they go much deeper than the stock head bolts. Only 2 threads were slightly ruined in that hole. The head stud threaded no problem all the way to the bottom. She’s put back together and so far so good no issues . Knock on wood. Atleast related to this ….

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
*Update *
I did arp head studs. Got her running. Seems so far so good . Figured out cluster issues and fan issues, various leaks, exhaust leaks. I have some kinks working on like idle, and trans and lots of cosmetics.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top