The Battle of "Eris"

[DreamChaser7]

The bolt that opens a hole into the B-Shaft chamber is probably the one you take out to insert a screwdriver to align the orientation of the B-Shaft when doing a timing belt.

Thanks, TK I believe Tony answered that too.

 

[DreamChaser7]

I don’t have a bore gauge yet but I did measure the pistons with a caliper. I’m assuming this means I’m still on stock bore size of 85mm

 

[AWD-Tony]

That’s not the right tool to measure accuracy to thousandth. Pistons are measured at the skirt. Also, you want to measure the cylinder bores at different depths to see if they’re egged on two axises. You’ll want to make sure it’s still within spec.

 

[DreamChaser7]

That’s not the right tool to measure accuracy to thousandth. Pistons are measured at the skirt. Also, you want to measure the cylinder bores at different depths to see if they’re egged on two axises. You’ll want to make sure it’s still within spec.

Ya I know I was just trying to figure out if it was most likely still 85mm and never been bored over. Like I said I don’t have a bore gauge to check all that yet. It’ll go to the machine shop eventually just trying to quell some curiosity in the meantime.

 

[DreamChaser7]

So I have a problem. Now that I finally got to the point I could find a few hours a week to work on the car and spend a few dollars, how do I still do that now that college football has started up again!?
Go Gators!

 

[Dericsh]

So I have a problem. Now that I finally got to the point I could find a few hours a week to work on the car and spend a few dollars, how do I still do that now that college football has started up again!?
Go Gators!

I put a tv in my garage

 

[DreamChaser7]

I put a tv in my garage

Ya the wife already resents and is jealous of the car, not gonna stir the pot that way. Lol

 

[Dericsh]

Ya the wife already resents and is jealous of the car, not gonna stir the pot that way. Lol

Solid plan

 

[DreamChaser7]

Planning to buy a new Eagle Forged Crank for the build. Standard 88mm. Also new Manley rods and pistons. Question I have is should I buy standard size main and rod bearings or standard w/ extra oil clearance (.001")? What are the pros and cons. Regardless of what I've read so far would like input from people here before I spend money. Thanks and sorry for more newb questions.

 

[DreamChaser7]

This was a nice link to find, decided to send it to my printer for a hardcopy.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1...talon-factory-parts-catalog-1990-1994.517692/

 

[DreamChaser7]

So I finally tackled something I've been dreading for a long time and that was to remove the lower window sash trims (not sure the proper name) that desperately need to be refurbed. I searched high and low on the "interweb" for the best method to do this and came up with not great results. Basically pull the pin at the rear, pull to the rear and up, and expect to bend the crap out of the trim and search a junkyard for another one to do the same thing with the same result. Well I plan to repaint everything, (yes this will also be my first attempt at something), and didn't want to have to double mask for the paint and clearcoat and then the refinish on the sash for a crappy result I would not accept so I was determined to get them off in reusable condition. Not sure if this deserves some type of tech article or whatnot but I figured out a much easier way, at least for me.
First I attempted it the way everything/everyone said to do it and that sumbitch didn't want to budge.

I then used my panel removal tools to gently wedge the trim enough to spray some blaster mutli-purpose down the entire trim piece.

After that I got the piece off with much determination but it was not pretty.

At the end of this piece coming off I noticed the end of the piece coming off easier as it sort of repostioned itself on a different angle. Then I saw that 3 of the retaining "tabs" had actually bent themselves upwards as the trim came off. No wonder there was so much resistance!

So I tried a different approach on the driverside. Same wedge and spray lube. But then I started from the front instead of the rear, and rolled the trim piece to the outside as I pulled upwards and what do you know..It started to pop off really easily and the rest of the piece came right up with very little resistance.

And no tabs bent upwards in the incorrect position afterwards..

I did this after removing the side mirrors which I think made it easier, but would be even easier I believe if the windows were removed from the doors as you could grasp the moulding better. With windows still installed you can grab the front enough to start the process though. Not sure if this helps anyone or not but it sure made my second one go a lot quicker and less risk of damage.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Another little something I got removed was the wiper arm rack. Again not sure the proper name for it but could not find anything about how to remove it. What I figured out: Wiggle and contort until it just barely clears and comes out the passenger hole. And let the PB set longer so you don't break yet another cheap bolt.

 

[Dericsh]

That’s a great explanation of removing the belt moldings. Will help me one day in the future. Thanks!

 

[DreamChaser7]

Wrist pin size question here:
Planning to buy Eagle forged crank (stock 88mm stroke.) Want Manley H beams and Manley pistons in the 8.5 - 9.0 flavor. My motor is a 6 bolt. Do I have to stay with 21mm wrist pins or can I move up to 22mm? What are the pro and cons? Need to wait on the pistons until block goes to machine shop but could get a good deal on rods now if I was sure on wrist pin size. Thanks.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Not much to update. Still taking crap apart when I find time. Side skirts, air dams, doors, upper drip rails, gas filler lid and release cables, clutch pedal assembly and random plugs and bolts I need to treat and touch up around removed. Getting pretty close to needing to engineer some adapter brackets for the rotisserie I think.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Not much to update. Still taking crap apart when I find time. Side skirts, air dams, doors, upper drip rails, gas filler lid and release cables, clutch pedal assembly and random plugs and bolts I need to treat and touch up around removed. Getting pretty close to needing to engineer some adapter brackets for the rotisserie I think.

Woah - I didn't' know 1G have huge door caps.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Woah - I didn't' know 1G have huge door caps.

Yah and they were a B to get off. Halfway thru I thought why the hell am I taking these off? I'm glad I did though especially given the rusted state of the metal clips and wanting the paint complete and clean. My passenger side seemed to be remounted at some point and whatever they used was not the right stuff. Rock hard! Glad those pieces are pretty flexible.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Went down with Covid a couple weeks ago, this one hit hard. Took two weeks to feel better and still lingering cough. Today was the first day I felt like doing anything so after getting caught up on a few things around the house, got to tinker with Eris a couple hours this afternoon.
Got adapter brackets measured up for rotisserie. Just need to get fabbed now. Removed rear wiper and motor. Tackled removing rear spoiler and side wings. Thought this was going to be simple, shoulda know better. All in all I got them off with finding one broken bracket and me breaking a plastic post on the side wings. Both of these items are not replaceable as they are built in. Anyone got any creative repair ideas without finding new pieces off a donor car?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Find a donor for a clip or you could pack fiber glass use a bolt . Stick in there so it can harder. You gotta think outside the box.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Got brackets back from welder for rotisserie. Drilled out all the holes I need, drill press would’ve been nice. Degreased, pre-d, 70% iso, self-etch, black semi, gloss clear.
Got straggling interior pieces out, seat belt rail assemblies out, headliner removed.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Lift gate and all remaining little bits removed. Got her on the rotisserie finally! Thought I had most of the crud knocked loose on her but spinning her halfway upside down proved that wrong. Lol.
I opted to leave the windshield for now and just put some ratchet straps on it for good measure. I do have a new one being delivered Tuesday though as there are two cracks in this one. Also left the rear quarters as you can’t find the trim for them. Hopefully I can at least get the upper and lower off those for paint without ruining them. FSM shows the vertical piece as non-reusable so that will be staying regardless I guess when paint time comes.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Really happy I was able to get a new windshield delivered to my house. Wasn’t cheap but nothing is for this car. Thanks Safelite!

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sweet windshield i still need to get one good to know i can, one right by my house.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Sweet windshield i still need to get one good to know i can, one right by my house.

Previous posts on here had me thinking they were all but NLA. There are another 5 that I know of down here available and they are all in Orlando.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Got a start on the underneath. Gonna be a lot of work. Not sure how some of you have done this on your back under jack stands! Kudos to those who have.