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The Battle of "Eris"

DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
207
148
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
I don’t have a bore gauge yet but I did measure the pistons with a caliper. I’m assuming this means I’m still on stock bore size of 85mm
9DA55D37-B2A2-465F-8E33-A16CD109AC35.jpeg
 

AWD-Tony

Supporting Member
6,802
3,690
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
That’s not the right tool to measure accuracy to thousandth. Pistons are measured at the skirt. Also, you want to measure the cylinder bores at different depths to see if they’re egged on two axises. You’ll want to make sure it’s still within spec.
 

DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
207
148
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
That’s not the right tool to measure accuracy to thousandth. Pistons are measured at the skirt. Also, you want to measure the cylinder bores at different depths to see if they’re egged on two axises. You’ll want to make sure it’s still within spec.
Ya I know I was just trying to figure out if it was most likely still 85mm and never been bored over. Like I said I don’t have a bore gauge to check all that yet. It’ll go to the machine shop eventually just trying to quell some curiosity in the meantime.
 

DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
207
148
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
So I have a problem. Now that I finally got to the point I could find a few hours a week to work on the car and spend a few dollars, how do I still do that now that college football has started up again!? ROFL
Go Gators! 🐊
 

DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
207
148
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
Planning to buy a new Eagle Forged Crank for the build. Standard 88mm. Also new Manley rods and pistons. Question I have is should I buy standard size main and rod bearings or standard w/ extra oil clearance (.001")? What are the pros and cons. Regardless of what I've read so far would like input from people here before I spend money. Thanks and sorry for more newb questions.
 
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DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
207
148
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
So I finally tackled something I've been dreading for a long time and that was to remove the lower window sash trims (not sure the proper name) that desperately need to be refurbed. I searched high and low on the "interweb" for the best method to do this and came up with not great results. Basically pull the pin at the rear, pull to the rear and up, and expect to bend the crap out of the trim and search a junkyard for another one to do the same thing with the same result. Well I plan to repaint everything, (yes this will also be my first attempt at something), and didn't want to have to double mask for the paint and clearcoat and then the refinish on the sash for a crappy result I would not accept so I was determined to get them off in reusable condition. Not sure if this deserves some type of tech article or whatnot but I figured out a much easier way, at least for me.
First I attempted it the way everything/everyone said to do it and that sumbitch didn't want to budge.
IMG_1483.jpg


I then used my panel removal tools to gently wedge the trim enough to spray some blaster mutli-purpose down the entire trim piece.

IMG_1482.jpg


After that I got the piece off with much determination but it was not pretty.

IMG_1484.jpg


At the end of this piece coming off I noticed the end of the piece coming off easier as it sort of repostioned itself on a different angle. Then I saw that 3 of the retaining "tabs" had actually bent themselves upwards as the trim came off. No wonder there was so much resistance!

IMG_1491.jpg


So I tried a different approach on the driverside. Same wedge and spray lube. But then I started from the front instead of the rear, and rolled the trim piece to the outside as I pulled upwards and what do you know..It started to pop off really easily and the rest of the piece came right up with very little resistance.

IMG_1496.jpg

And no tabs bent upwards in the incorrect position afterwards..
IMG_1498.jpg


I did this after removing the side mirrors which I think made it easier, but would be even easier I believe if the windows were removed from the doors as you could grasp the moulding better. With windows still installed you can grab the front enough to start the process though. Not sure if this helps anyone or not but it sure made my second one go a lot quicker and less risk of damage.
 

DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
207
148
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
Another little something I got removed was the wiper arm rack. Again not sure the proper name for it but could not find anything about how to remove it. What I figured out: Wiggle and contort until it just barely clears and comes out the passenger hole. And let the PB set longer so you don't break yet another cheap bolt.
IMG_1500.jpg
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DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
207
148
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
Wrist pin size question here:
Planning to buy Eagle forged crank (stock 88mm stroke.) Want Manley H beams and Manley pistons in the 8.5 - 9.0 flavor. My motor is a 6 bolt. Do I have to stay with 21mm wrist pins or can I move up to 22mm? What are the pro and cons? Need to wait on the pistons until block goes to machine shop but could get a good deal on rods now if I was sure on wrist pin size. Thanks.

Also still looking for some input on the bearing size question. Everything is new so standard size bearings or +.001” “extra oil clearance?” Which way is better?
Any help here would be greatly appreciated!
 
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