tensioner pulley control arm Question

[LTUDSM]

well today i wanted to do an ignition timing,but when i took the upper timing belt cover,i saw,that my timing belt is shifted to the side (towards the strut) It was a good half inch off of the cam gears. So i took the rest of the timing cover off,and i saw, that my tensioner control arm is moving side o side.I took the control arm off,and that little shaft,where control arm sits on came off as well. So my question is :
is it normal for a tensioner control arm shaft to come out that easy,or there is some problem with it? and how should i put it back on? thanks for any advice....

 

[steve]

Perhaps it's different on a 2G but the pivot shaft is part of the drivers side motor mount on a 1G if it's loose you have to replace the mount. Looks like the same deal on 2G.

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Check the inside surface of the tensioner arm for wear and replace it if it's worn. Remember to grease the pivot shaft and the inside of the tensioner arm when you put them back together.

 

[LTUDSM]

Perhaps it's different on a 2G but the pivot shaft is part of the drivers side motor mount on a 1G if it's loose you have to replace the mount. Looks like the same deal on 2G.

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Check the inside surface of the tensioner arm for wear and replace it if it's worn. Remember to grease the pivot shaft and the inside of the tensioner arm when you put them back together.

Thats the pivot shaft im talking about. On 2g only tensioner arm bracket sits on a pivot shaft.But that shaft itself came out along with the tensioner arm bracket. So you are saying,that if the pivot shaft comes out, i need to change the whole motor mount bracket?

 

[steve]

I don't know. I assumed from the RRE swap article that was a 2G mount in the picture and it looks to me like the shaft is pressed into the mount and doesn't come off.

CAPS doesn't show it by itself.

When I found my timing belt walking at 100k it was the shaft that had worn out and I had to replace the whole mount.

Maybe someone with more 2G experience can comment.

If the shaft is threaded for the bolt then it had to be fixed to the mount. If the shaft is drilled and the bolt run into the block then it might be intended to come out.

 

[LTUDSM]

I don't know. I assumed from the RRE swap article that was a 2G mount in the picture and it looks to me like the shaft is pressed into the mount and doesn't come off.

CAPS doesn't show it by itself.

When I found my timing belt walking at 100k it was the shaft that had worn out and I had to replace the whole mount.

Maybe someone with more 2G experience can comment.

If the shaft is threaded for the bolt then it had to be fixed to the mount. If the shaft is drilled and the bolt run into the block then it might be intended to come out.

The shaft has a thread for a bolt.You mount the tensioner control arm on that shaft,and use a bolt and a big washer to hold the tensioner control arm . I never saw ,that the shaft could come out of the bracket like that.... i looked (searched) on a board about that,but nobody had a problem....

 

[steve]

Trying a different way to explain it. If the bolt doesn't run all the way into the block or into the engine mount than the shaft has to be part of the mount and shouldn't be loose just like on a 1G.

 

[Beemer92]

The bolt does not go all the way through. I've got about 100k on mine and haven't had any issues other than a little rust. I would think that the shaft would be pressed into the mouting bracket, but I'm not 100% sure. I'd check with a local mitsu dealership for more info. Good luck.

 

[LTUDSM]

The bolt does not go all the way through. I've got about 100k on mine and haven't had any issues other than a little rust. I would think that the shaft would be pressed into the mouting bracket, but I'm not 100% sure. I'd check with a local mitsu dealership for more info. Good luck.

couple of a mitsu dealers around me are the worse dealers it can be.When i need something,they never have even without looking for a parts,the first thing what would say tell is "NO we dont have that part" so i think somehow,i got to figure it out myself,or somebody might chime in with more experience on that...

 

[Yamahaulin]

My car was doing same thing, there is a bolt that fell out that prevents that arm from moving in and out, all i did was buy a new bolt and washer and my problem was fixed.

 

[LTUDSM]

My car was doing same thing, there is a bolt that fell out that prevents that arm from moving in and out, all i did was buy a new bolt and washer and my problem was fixed.

thats a different scenario.Read my post from the beginning.... its not the bolt problem,that holds the tensioner arm. its the whole shaft where the tensioner arm slides on came out of the bracket...

 

[snowborder714]

If there is a problem with the shaft behind the tensioner arm, you'll need to replace the whole motor mount. As Steve said, the only thing in CAPS is the mount itself. No smaller parts that go with it.

 

[steve]

couple of a mitsu dealers around me are the worse dealers it can be.When i need something,they never have even without looking for a parts,the first thing what would say tell is "NO we dont have that part" so i think somehow,i got to figure it out myself,or somebody might chime in with more experience on that...

I would be surprised if a dealer had the mount in stock. I only show it (MD189172) available with the tensioner arm and pulley so the classifieds may be the way to go.

Heck, It's $69.34 from JNZ, that's not bad. The tensioner arm is $31 and the pulley $33 so what's up with that, you get the mount almost for free if CAPS is correct.

 

[snowborder714]

You're correct Steve.

 

[LTUDSM]

I would be surprised if a dealer had the mount in stock. I only show it (MD189172) available with the tensioner arm and pulley so the classifieds may be the way to go.

Heck, It's $69.34 from JNZ, that's not bad. The tensioner arm is $31 and the pulley $33 so what's up with that, you get the mount almost for free if CAPS is correct.

what if i weld that shaft into the bracket?? because my car is parted out on a street and i need to fix as soon as possible. i just can't wait a week or so to get the part at my door...

 

[steve]

It has to be exactly 90* to the bracket both directions so don't warp it with the weld.
Assuming you don't have any other wear on it it should be good enough to last but considering the cost if it fails I would replace it as soon as I could.

 

[Beemer92]

It has to be exactly 90* to the bracket both directions so don't warp it with the weld.
Assuming you don't have any other wear on it it should be good enough to last but considering the cost if it fails I would replace it as soon as I could.

Steves right once again. Everything has to line up correctly to prevent other issues. Be advised that welding it back together is only a temporary fix, and that a new oem or good aftermarket one be aquired asap. Hope everything works out.