T-case input shaft seal? and DOHC timing belt..

[TajMan]

1st question, if I'm careful can I pull out this seal and replace just as this sits, or do you have to dis-assemble the front of the T-case to have access for seal replacement?

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2nd question, DOHC timing belt. I've got the crank pulley lined up right on the T for TDC, but the marks on cams look like they're 1/2 a tooth off. (if they were adjusted 1 tooth, they'd be off 1/2 a tooth in the opposite direction)
If I line up the cam marks perfect, the crankshaft mark is just barely to the right of the T not right on..
pics give you an idea:

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(I know dowel pins on cam gears are supposed to be up, with engine rotated further and dowels up, the marks still line up that same way about 1/2 a tooth off)

Is something obviously not right with my engine?
I know it ran and made a bit of noise when revved, I'm expecting to do a head job possibly..

 

[ramsack]

The lines on the cams are supposed to line up in line with the top of head (where the valve cover meets the head.) Just trying to time a motor by eyeballing from some other perspective other than looking straight on to that line is asking for trouble. Also, don't rely on the crank pulley to tell you where TDC is. There are marks on the front cover/oil pump. It looks to be a full tooth off on the intake cam.

 

[TajMan]

I'll get more pics, I don't think its off 1 tooth.

My compression is 120 - 120 - 120 - 80, crap

this cyl has 80psi compression:

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I do use a straight edge to line up marks:

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view of the cams directly from the side, they are this much off with the crank pulley lined up:

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[ramsack]

First picture is a valve cover leak. You can't rely on the timing mark on the crank pulley to be exact without first knowing if the engine is at perfect TDC.

 

[slowboy101]

to me it looks like a headgasket leak which would thro the compression off slightly!

 

[TajMan]

well damn
I'll be doing a head job...
(I've done maybe three total 4G63T head/headgasket jobs in the past)
6G72TT knowledge messes with my brain and confuses sometimes

 

[ramsack]

How would a head gasket put oil above the intake manifold? It looks like the exhaust manifold could have been possibly warped, too. Compression is probably low because cylinders 1 and 4 always get into a fight between intake manifold airflow fuel flow, being the first and last cylinders, but not with each other, but between airflow and fuel flow. No reason to scream head gasket right away, but hell something needs to be addressed anyway so it will need to come apart.

 

[TajMan]

oh ya my first question, can I replace that T-case seal without taking apart the T-case?

 

[ramsack]

If you can get the seal out then yes. Pressing a seal in wouldn't require disassembly, but whether you need to or not depends on if you can take the seal out without disassembling it.

 

[TajMan]

FYI the seal is very easy to remove, just use a very small drill bit to drill a hole, and then you can use a thin nail that you bend the tip of or other tool- old seal will pop out easily.

Can you remind me on types of gear-oil to use for T-case and for the rear end? And what is the best gear oil or other trans lube to use in the manual transmissions?

Syncromesh is no good for these transmissions, causes the syncros to degrade over time??

 

[thirsty]

G'day.
For the seal.
Carefully drill a small hole and drive a self tapping screw like a drywall screw into the hole in the top metal part of the seal. Do two holes opposite each other if you can't get it out. Use vise-grips to remove, clean the site and press the new one on.
Bob's your Uncle.
For the timing belt.
I run Group 'A' rally cams in my 4G63 and I have to load the exhaust cam, I think, slightly to get the cam gears on match both marks, i.e. the cams are not both in a rest position with the pins in a vertical position, the exhaust cam has to be rotated very slightly toward the front of the engine.
Cheers
Ross

 

[PieEyedPiper]

First picture is a valve cover leak. You can't rely on the timing mark on the crank pulley to be exact without first knowing if the engine is at perfect TDC.

How would a head gasket put oil above the intake manifold? It looks like the exhaust manifold could have been possibly warped, too. Compression is probably low because cylinders 1 and 4 always get into a fight between intake manifold airflow fuel flow, being the first and last cylinders, but not with each other, but between airflow and fuel flow. No reason to scream head gasket right away, but hell something needs to be addressed anyway so it will need to come apart.

I don't see a VC leak in that picture of the nasty exhaust port.. Nor can I tell if there is oil above his intake manifold. We looking at the same pictures?

Looking at that exhaust port, clearly there was a leak between the exhaust manifold/gasket/head, but I'm guessing there's a smoked valve on that cylinder. If it weren't for that 80psi I'd for sure just thought you have a messed up stud on the left side. I do and it produces a mess like that if I neglect wiping it up for a year. As mentioned, it has to come off so guessing right now isn't important.

EDIT: I'm not sure you can trust those compression readings, on a cold engine, out of time

 

[TajMan]

IT WAS NOT OUT OF TIME, everything in perfect time.
Picture was misleading, because top of engine was powerwashed before the exhaust manifold/turbo/heatshield were removed.
Possible leaks from multiple areas. Regardless, head will be removed and addressed now.

This is what happens when a lower timing belt cover doesn't have all the bolts installed, rubbing inside and out:

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On the T-case seal, yes I did the drill small hole method myself.
The first new seal I put in, I used a large socket and hammer to seat it down.
The seal didn't go in properly and it bent slanting inward all the way around, with the outside edge around the seal sitting slightly high.
I removed this 2nd seal and back to N.A.P.A., they're cool guys and they replaced it this one time under warranty so I got a new free seal I can pick up tonight.

I just need to find a large socket that's like 1-2mm bigger and try to hammer the seal into case extremely carefully...