Synthetic Oil [merged]

[DrunkenMime249]

All synthetic oil threads are merged here.i'm trying to buy a 1g dsm turbo awd (as i'm sure most of you know by now from my recent ramblings in other threads). Most of the ones i've been looking at are bone stock for the most part except repairs and i have a feeling all are running on regular oil.

my question is when i finally buy one should i run regular, full sythetic, or somwhere in between (i am planning on running full synthetic).

also, if the car is running regular and i want to switch to full synthetic, i've heard it can be damaging to switch all at once. or is that just a fable? it makes sense and i was planning on slowly uprading the oil quality everytime i changed it until it was running full synthetic. is that the wrong thing to do?

 

[95GSXBLUR]

Synthetic IS better. It's manufactured in a lab for precise and precision results. Mineral Oil is basically for the BARE minimum.

What i think Defiant is saying is that people have their own opinions... so no matter what other people say, there will always be someone with an opposite opinion.

Groomz posted some really good reading on Oil... there are more sources out there. if you read them, synthetic is PROVEN to be better.

Now, the whole point of this thread is to be between Royal Purp and Mobile 1.

I've used Mobile 1 5W-30 for Years - there is definitely an IMPROVEMENT over conventional Mineral oil. as for Royal to Mobile 1, minor differences.... and i wouldn't justify spending $2 more per quart for purple.

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by rjdavis21
i dont quite understand your post defiant, can you explain? i always thought synthetic was better than regular motor oil

Maybe what defiant is trying to say is that synthetic motor oil is overkill on a run-of-the-mill motor. Lots of people change at 3000, and that is wrong. With any oil it is wrong. With Mobile you should run it to 15,000 miles with 5000 mile filter only changes ( and top-off's of course ).

Knowledge is power:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html

 

[sakrafice]

its this simple, there both good. i recommend using either of the 2, how ever i do think Royal Purple is better on a car with mods.

 

[-GSX-Falcon]

Originally posted by Defiant
Find any.

And if they're the type who're throwing out good oil at 3000 (or even 2500 in some bizarre cases) miles, Kragen has Shell motor oil on sale for 59¢ a quart this week.

It's all API Grade SL. When DSMs started, the best over-the-counter oils were SD.

If you _think_ you're getting some benefit from synthetic, then you probably won't be swayed.

If you _think_ one synthetic is doing more for a casually-pushed street motor than another pure or partial synthetic is, again, you're probably convinced.

I know what I think. As do many of you.

What Defiant is saying is even Dino oil now a days is better then what the car was designed to run, so in many cases getting synthetic is overkill. And if you are really going to change the oil every 3,000 miles get the cheap kind, because the expensives can go alot longer then 3,000.

That being said I still use Mobil 1 synthetic. Probably dont need to, but Im willing to pay the extra just to put my mind at ease.

 

[TazManianDevil]

I already tried royal purple and mobile 1 with k&n oil filter for me its the same they both help kick my cars lifter tick away the only difference is (you guys already know it) price. Just use mobile 1

 

[TazManianDevil]

Originally posted by -GSX-Falcon
That being said I still use Mobil 1 synthetic. Probably dont need to, but Im willing to pay the extra just to put my mind at ease.

im with you

 

[mach1one]

Ppl weren't kidding when they said the turbo ones will dirty oil faster. Even approaching 2.5-3k miles of driving my oil is pretty much black as night. I really don't drive it hard or beat the living crap out of it.

My fiance's t/a seems to do a bit better about not dirtying it up so quick. I usually run it out to 4-5k and just change the filter at 3k (if I remember).

I had a built 73 mustang, it seemed to run better on mobil1 syn. But I was a spaz about that car and could feel anything different in that car.

 

[d_tsiawd]

i used synthetic in my engien and noticed that the engine ran noticeabley cooler and from my experiacne the mobil 1 seemed to run better. but another question comes to mind when the royal purple goes in its purple. when it comes out its brown....

where did the purple go?

just something for u guys to think about

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by d_tsiawd

where did the purple go?

:laugh: We may never know.

Don't change your oil based on its color. Did anyone read that link? After 18,000 miles and one filter change, Mobile was up for changing. This was sending in samples to a lab to have them tested. I can't understand why people don't trust real raw information over internet jibba jabba.

I'm going to go sit in defiant's camp.

-Groomz

 

[d_tsiawd]

i know io know but i was just curious caues some of my friend use it and i noticed they pour in purple but come out brown so i was just wondering

 

[TazManianDevil]

it looks like dark purple to me try to put some royal purple in the tissue and youll see whats the real color

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by d_tsiawd
i know io know but i was just curious caues some of my friend use it and i noticed they pour in purple but come out brown so i was just wondering

Ever drink Welch's Grape Juice?

Same kind of thing.





or, not.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by rjdavis21
i dont quite understand your post defiant, can you explain? i always thought synthetic was better than regular motor oil

For the most part, synthetic is better. However, regular motor oil is better than you need for street, and even occasional racing use. It's nothing against folks who choose to use synthetics, or anything other than no-name API SL grade motor oil. "Too good" isn't anything like bad (I've found little substantiation to the "causes leaks" myth), it's just expensive.

Oh, and a guy I work with bought me a sump of Redline, so once the transfer case is replaced, the '95 will be running on synthetic. Go figure.

 

[crankbender]

First off I will never use RP....I have seen many an engine run mobil 1 well then when they change to RP the engine suddenly grenades. I am not saying just 1 I am saying like 5 over the past 6 years. Noone around here I know will ever touch RP again. just my .02

The reason for changing the oil early has little to do with what the oil can take. The tests are likely done on well working and sealing engines running at the proper AFR. On many cars this is not the case and the oil gets contaminated with chemical impurities that are not filtered out. These include fuel and combustion by-products. I am not saying you have to change it early but it doesn't hurt in our cars. On the other hand some cars do have a system set up where you are not suppose to drain the oil more than you have to. IMHO its worth the few extra bucks to feel good about it.

Many engine designers I have talked to have said that any "Pennsylvania (sp) grade oil is the best thing you can put in your car" (they also say to change it often ). However synthetic oil also will not coke as conventional oil does. This means when you drive your car hard and forget to let that turbo cool off the synthetic will take it better. This alone is a reason to use it in my book. I just don't like the thought of something maybe going wrong. Its like everybody on here says...you can't change your plugs and wires too often or use too high quality of ones.

 

[JCaruso]

Great post,
Caruso

Originally posted by Defiant
Ever drink Welch's Grape Juice?

Same kind of thing.





or, not.

 

[JCaruso]

I posted this somewhere in here before, but, my lifter tick immediately went away after changing to Mobil1 from non-synthetic oil.

It's been well over a thousand miles now, and no more tick.

Just my experience.

Caruso

 

[paranoidTSi]

From personal experience I have seen no difference when switching between:
Valvoline
Castrol GTX
Penzoil
Quakerstate Full Synthetic
Supertech Full Synthetic
Mobil 1 Synethic

So just pick a oil and stick with it, I honestly don't think there is a big difference between motor oil brands.

 

[doug]

I agree. So far I've tried Castrol GTX, Amsoil, Valvoline SynTec, Royal Purple, and now Red Line. No change in the tick.

 

[ZyklonBZombie]

i used synthetics on my 92 non turbo for years and honestly could not tell any benifit over dyno oil (i used redline w/ mobil 1,pure one, and some other synthetic oil filter) ... then when i got my 90 awd i put in mobil 1 (w/ 120k miles) and imedieatly devoloped oil leaks ... now i switch to gtx high milage and am content ... sometimes i use valvoline vr racing oil (50w... it gets HOT here in texas)

 

[ZyklonBZombie]

oh yeah ... and my lifters ticked no matter what combo i used ... even with the holier than thou "stock" mitsubishi filter with it's "exsculsive" check valves that almost all oil filters have (but i do stay away from fram)

 

[95tsiawd_86]

why dont people just use normal oils like 10-30 or 5-30 instead of screwing with wierd oils......just something ive wondered.....

 

[rowlex]

I recently had to switch to 15w-50 mobile 1 simply because I cannot find the 10w-40. I was apprehensive at first about the heavier weight. I run it in both my GSX's, one which seemed to have lower than normal oil pressure, the 15w-50 brought it right up I also noticed a slight reduction in my lifter tick, on both cars.

WHY ARE SOME OF YOU CALLING 15W-50 MOLASSIS???
Gimme a f'n break, no way in HELL is it that thick, your giving people the wrong impression with that.

 

[clownface]

Originally posted by Defiant
Whoa! This IS interesting. The '93 Talon manual shows 20W-20, 40 from -32°F and up for the turbo, the '95 Talon manual only has 10W-30 from -10°F and up, and doesn't make a distinction for turbo motors. The '96 Eclipse manual says 20W-40 for the turbo from -32°F and up. The '97 Talon manual has 20W-10 from -32°F and up for the turbo.

I have the distinct impression they know about as much about oil weights as all of us do. Or, no one proofreads the oil specs pages.

just thought i would toss this out there, my 95 eclipse manual says something like this, 5w-30 for like 10*F through very cold. and 10w-30 for above 10*F and warmer, or something like that. of course it acautally has pictures to show this it dont say very cold, hehe

 

[igs]

Look, stop the madness. I'm not saying "thicker is better" but get your facts straight. The only reason car companies started recommending oils like 5W-30 is to meet gas mileage requirements. By the time your engine wears out the warranty will already be up and you will have to buy a new car, another plus for the car companies. Turbo engines are in a totally different ballpark. If you are even thinking about 5W-30, or God forbid something thinner, you are an idiot.

 

[95tsiawd_86]

that is interesting that all the model years are different....i never knew that