Synthetic Oil [merged]

[DrunkenMime249]

All synthetic oil threads are merged here.i'm trying to buy a 1g dsm turbo awd (as i'm sure most of you know by now from my recent ramblings in other threads). Most of the ones i've been looking at are bone stock for the most part except repairs and i have a feeling all are running on regular oil.

my question is when i finally buy one should i run regular, full sythetic, or somwhere in between (i am planning on running full synthetic).

also, if the car is running regular and i want to switch to full synthetic, i've heard it can be damaging to switch all at once. or is that just a fable? it makes sense and i was planning on slowly uprading the oil quality everytime i changed it until it was running full synthetic. is that the wrong thing to do?

 

[2-0turbo]

Originally posted by igs
Have you asked? Because you obviously haven't. They run 0 weight oil for qualifying, throw that engine away, then run 50 weight oil on the race engine. If you don't drive more than 1.5 mile laps between engine rebuilds then go ahead, use 0W-20.

Okay, you got me. I haven't asked. But I did watch an hour long television show about racing technology that included a 15-minute segment on oils and lubrication. It had the engine builders and mechanics from Hendricks, DEI, etc. What you have said above is not what they said. I'll believe them over you. What reason can you give me that an engine won't last with 0W-20? If the engine is designed with oil clearances for that weight oil, it would work fine. Everything still rides on an cushion of oil and no metal/metal contact occurs. This season, Nascar teams are running their engines to unheard of RPM's. One team (I can't remember which) is spinning that small block to 9200 RPM. What do you think is contributing to these higher speeds? Thicker oils? Believe what you want.

And as for drag racers, I have some buddies who won their class last year in NMRA. They are running a 399 motor and run 0W-20 oil all the time. They don't tear down after every run and the motor goes all season with the exception of some preventive maintenance on valvetrain. That is an 800 HP motor. They don't throw the motor away when they are done. I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree.

Like I said, I used to subscribe to the "thicker is better" philosophy until I lost an engine running the "thick" stuff. I am rebuilding the engine with factory specified oil clearances and I'll run the factory specified oil viscosity.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by goalieman24
Not trying to steal the thread.... but does anyone have experience with Havoline 10w-30?? My car is due for a change and I found a whole case of the Havoline in the garage. Anyone ever use this before?

That'll work just fine.

 

[rjdavis21]

I was reading up on the royal purple synthetic motor oil and I was wondering if anyone uses it on here and what they think about it. Its it that much better than the Moble 1 synthetic motor oil? Os is there not really a difference? Should I go ahead and start using Royal Purple on my freshly rebuilt engine or stay with that Ive always used and keep with the Moble 1? Please give all info on and people that have or do use it please let me know how you like it. Thanks.

 

[gstspyder1998]

Originally posted by rjdavis21
I was reading up on the royal purple synthetic motor oil and I was wondering if anyone uses it on here and what they think about it. Its it that much better than the Moble 1 synthetic motor oil? Os is there not really a difference? Should I go ahead and start using Royal Purple on my freshly rebuilt engine or stay with that Ive always used and keep with the Moble 1? Please give all info on and people that have or do use it please let me know how you like it. Thanks.

I've used both and I couldn't really tell any difference when I switched from Mobil 1 to Royal Purple. Then again, my car isn't as modded as others on here so you might want to wait for another post. What I did notice was my wallet a little lighter. Royal Purple cost $6.30 for a quart compared to $20.02 for a 5 quart jug for Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart . I switched back to Mobil1 since I didn't really see any differences between the 2.

 

[rjdavis21]

a friend said his smoked with royal purple? and slow boy sells quarts for 5.50 so there wouldnt be a diff? help

 

[rjdavis21]

also ive seen a few people say not to use synthetic the first so many miles on a new engine? ime rebuilding my engine and getting a new turbo can i go right to using synthetic? or what need info on this too. thanks

 

[heavyD]

I've used both and had no problems with either. They are both good synthetic oils. Can't go wrong with either one.

 

[EvolvingGST]

Originally posted by rjdavis21
also ive seen a few people say not to use synthetic the first so many miles on a new engine? ime rebuilding my engine and getting a new turbo can i go right to using synthetic? or what need info on this too. thanks

Well most BMW sports car use Synthetic Motor Oils in their cars stock... So I don't see the logic... actually a lot of the sports car stock from factory use synthetic motor oils. It provides better lubrication. So I don't see that point...


But I don't know I use mobil one and its good stuff.

 

[95GSXBLUR]

Originally posted by rjdavis21
also ive seen a few people say not to use synthetic the first so many miles on a new engine? ime rebuilding my engine and getting a new turbo can i go right to using synthetic? or what need info on this too. thanks

the EVO III also uses Mobil1 Stock... Which is our same engine.. I don't see a problem

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

My personal experience with both, Mobil 1 made the lifters tick, royal purple didn't, Both a 10-40 oil.

 

[Cheks_Talon_TSi]

Since 5 days ago I have been using Royal Purple 10W-30 and the only difference i notice is that lifters tick reduce considerable... I havn't use the Mobil 1 but I think both are good since their are syntethic oils.

Good luck!

 

[JiveMasterT]

yeah, i dunno what was in my car before, but i put mobil 1 in and my lifters are ticking much more than usual... but thats ok cause im getting them replaced.

 

[98RedGs]

Originally posted by heavyD
I've used both and had no problems with either. They are both good synthetic oils. Can't go wrong with either one.

 

[doug]

I haven't used Mobil 1, but my lifter tick did not improve when I switched to Royal Purple from Amsoil. If anything, it got a little worse. Now I'm trying Red Line and there's no difference there either. I'm now convinced that there's no oil/filter that can have a definitive effect on lifter tick.

 

[-GSX-Falcon]

I switched from a FRAM Filter with Valvoline Syn to Mobil 1 and a Wix filter (small kind). With the FRAM and Valvoline I had off and on lifter tick. With my Mobil1 I have not heard it since. I did also add a v6 can of Restore though.

 

[deyja6]

Originally posted by rjdavis21
also ive seen a few people say not to use synthetic the first so many miles on a new engine? ime rebuilding my engine and getting a new turbo can i go right to using synthetic? or what need info on this too. thanks

i've heard of this too. i think using a conventional oil at first in a new engine allows it to break in properly.

 

[ckozlgod]

Sorry but spending over $6 for a quart of oil is rediculous...

 

[doug]

Originally posted by ckozlgod
Sorry but spending over $6 for a quart of oil is rediculous...

And this contributes to the subject matter of this thread how?

 

[ckozlgod]

And this contributes to the subject matter of this thread how?

sorry

I thought you would realize that by me saying I wouldn't pay over $6 for a qt/oil means that I would reccomend not spending the extra money for royal purple...get it?


There is no way you can argue spending an extra $5-10 for oil that is the same as mobil 1...evem if RP is better, it isn't a significant difference that should cost that much more

 

[doug]

OK, well that's KIND OF related.

But I got the impression that the original poster was more concerned with performance differences between the two, not price.

 

[tlnpwr]

i used mobil 1 (from walmart too) good price, and does the job. honestly, i change my oil every 2000-2500 miles (especially if im going to the track a lot). as for the oil filter, i use what extreme motorsports uses...the NAPA gold filter...i forget the number now

 

[gstspyder1998]

I also didn't notice a different in lifter noise when I switched from Mobil 1 to Royal Purple. Actually when I swictched back to Mobil 1 all of a sudden the lifters tick. I also switched from using Mobil 1 ($9.95) oil filter to the OEM($5.00) oil filter.

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by rjdavis21
also ive seen a few people say not to use synthetic the first so many miles on a new engine? ime rebuilding my engine and getting a new turbo can i go right to using synthetic? or what need info on this too. thanks

Here's some good oil reading:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motoroil.html
http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/engineoil_bible.html

About rebuilding and oil:

http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/engine2t.htm

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by doug
I got the impression that the original poster was more concerned with performance differences between the two, not price.

Find any.

And if they're the type who're throwing out good oil at 3000 (or even 2500 in some bizarre cases) miles, Kragen has Shell motor oil on sale for 59¢ a quart this week.

It's all API Grade SL. When DSMs started, the best over-the-counter oils were SD.

If you _think_ you're getting some benefit from synthetic, then you probably won't be swayed.

If you _think_ one synthetic is doing more for a casually-pushed street motor than another pure or partial synthetic is, again, you're probably convinced.

I know what I think. As do many of you.

 

[rjdavis21]

i dont quite understand your post defiant, can you explain? i always thought synthetic was better than regular motor oil